Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

Great news on the plates, I did not connect the dots until I saw Indiana! The seals I used, were the two lip style from Signal Seal, for pulling vacuum, and have to go on dry, so I can't see how someone could install it without some kind of rigid install tool... but then I did a wet sump with the st...

I've been in your position before. From memory, the issue is that the crank does not have enough of a chamfer to get the seal started. I used to make a tool for this, which pilots on the crank snout, and tapers out to the main journal diameter, giving the seal a nice gentle guide, almost makes it fu...

A pair of Nelson 41180F is what I have used. 8" in/out.

while you are doing that i would at least take 1 intake spring off and look real good at the locks, retainer, valve stem and spring Tom ^^ Agreed!! ^^ That is the best advise so far and that is an easy thing for you to do now that it is off the dyno. Take (at least) an intake and exhaust spring off...

Just checked in, pretty sure I know where some is.
SBC bar, end plates, might be SBD also... not sure about cutter tooling as they may use that in the CNC... email me if still looking Dave,

rbperf at Hotmail dot com

R Brown, I actually have two Stuska dynos. The old one is the early 800 unit which has the control and shut off valve on the console. The other is a Stuska is the gold line trackmaster which is the system that Powertest sells. Its the onebwith the check valve. If you want I can send pics of the che...

I'm not sure on other dynos but on Stuska the inlet check valve needs to have a stiffer spring to account for the higher head when the pump isn't running. Otherwise you'll dump the reservoir water through the brake. The check valve can be taken apart for spring replacement. hmm, mine is the Depac A...

My reservoir tank is mounted 1 foot above the water absorber. Reason being so the pump never starves for water and cannot have air pocket so it looses its prime. On the brake outlet side, I pump into a 5o gallon tank that is below the pump outlet and have it hooked to another pump that returns it t...

I'm not sure on other dynos but on Stuska the inlet check valve needs to have a stiffer spring to account for the higher head when the pump isn't running. Otherwise you'll dump the reservoir water through the brake. The check valve can be taken apart for spring replacement. hmm, mine is the Depac A...

Thanks for the input Dave,

Yeah, with the current layout, my brake already dumps water to a reservoir below, and a pump cycles (triggered by a float) to move the water back to the tank, so like you said, that won't be much of an issue.

Great job!

Does anyone have experience with locating the dyno water tank ABOVE the cell? Not interested in debating the weight of this, just of the plumbing pitfalls I may be overlooking. There would be some pumping losses with the return water to the tank, and the supply water valve would have to be turned of...

I did not read any responses, but do you have some kind of internal support to the scavenge lines, and the supply line from the tank? Also what size are the lines? I've personally seen things like this happen on the dyno, and have since then never build a dry sump system without using internal suppo...

This is similar to the flow rate manometer on a superflow flowbench... I used it on a custom flowbench that I eventually converted to electronics. In fine shape, and is filled with their red gauge fluid. $200 USD, located in Calgary, AB CANADA

Ryan

SOLD, thanks