Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

I would sonic test both and then decide. Assuming both standard bore and within usual wall thickness. Bigger hole is better. A 383 cannot compete with the extra breathing space and if the 400 block you have show no sign of damage, I'd pick that one. It's not a big horsepower strip bullet build anyw...

I would sonic test both and then decide.

Kinda decided kinda to reuse the cam and see if I'm dumb as a box of rocks or not. Mike made me this cam for a N/A 400 SBC. Dart SHP. AFR 210 heads. Forged internals. 6" rods. It's a great street motor. Power everywhere. My compression is 10.7:1. It doesn't really like 91 octane, but thats fine...

I'm with ya on that. It's hard for me to imagine that bluetooth connection is a good idea but I guess it works with enough safety and redundance built in. Do they have an option for a "hard wire" interface? Only time you need a bluetooth connection, and you can also choose to have it pass...

Would kinda defeat the purpose of a dominator if the intake is small. A big port job on that dual plane, then try a dominator, now that would be interesting

I don't know if it will make 520 but it will most probably be a GREAT overall street engine. My build is very similar but a bit milder with a Mikes .360 lobe, hyd roller 232/232 on AFR 210 heads and 6" rods. Apart from that it's the same engine I built. I run 8.0 sec 1/8 mile with it with over ...

Very useful tool. But a question popped up: To get the most accurate data from the spintron testing, is it normal to heat the oil and head/block to normal operating temps, say 200F? Would be very useful for more accurate real world comparisons.

I couldnt care less if one makes slightly more power than the other. A longer rod makes for a happier engine over time. Angles. Pressure. Piston acceleration. Rod bearings. Lighter piston. Stuff like that. Minute stuff that can make a difference.

8740 bolts are plenty for a 500hp streeter sbc 6" rods to 6-7000rpm. Way way stronger than standard bolts, plenty clamp, and just almost, yes almost, up to ARP2000 in tensile strength. Cost is why people recommend the 2000 bolts because they are not that much more expensive. Might as well.

Use the Scat H-beams with the 2000 series bolts. They give the best clearance and will be everything you ever need in that engine. Keep the rod choice simple, inexpensive and put the investigation, efforts and dollars into selecting the great pistons, ring types and sizes, block machining and bore ...

6" Scat H beams here, 3.75 crank and .360 lobes. 1.140 base circle. Good clearance.

Belgian1979 wrote: ↑Tue Sep 11, 2018 1:41 pm Why would you be able to ever make a fair comparison. Each engine requires specific components, camshafts etc to make the most of a combo will change dramatically.

Definitely agree.

I'm asking the questions because I want to try to make a point. The big bore/short stroke = more power theory is IMO only related to inefficient head design. Everything else can be remedied be it balance, bob weight, ring pack/drag, windage etc etc. All the naughty trade offs that comes with a long ...

Grp5L wrote: ↑Sun Sep 09, 2018 6:45 pm

kimosabi wrote: ↑Thu Sep 06, 2018 2:13 am Trend today modern engines is undersquare. Why?

Because it suits the way the majority of us drive in everyday life.

So how come the Barra straight six performance engines are undersquare.

Another key element on the upside down DB engines were the centerpiece of the ME109. A cannon mounting between the cylinder banks firing through the propeller hub. Pilots that had experienced both Spits and ME109's remarked how silent the 109 was compared to the Spits. Exhaust much lower exits.