Dyno water rust inhibitor
Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 12:32 pm
I searched thru the old posts on this, and have some new questions to ask...
I am in the process of changing the water in my dyno tank. I have a two part question:
1: I put the cooling water from the engine back into the same tank, so rust control is an issue. Last time around I used a pricey corrosion inhibitor (around 400 bucks) and while it worked alright, the water would still turn rusty color. I got around 4 years out of it, so that is not too bad, but looking for different options.
A few have suggested bleach, and indicated that by adding a gallon or 2 with 1000 gallons of water every six months will result in crystal clear water. That probably works fine for engines tested for one day then removed, but quite often I will have a test engine on the dyno for weeks at a time, and without any rust inhibitor, I am quite sure I am going to have corrosion issues as the water sits in the engine.
I know Larry Meaux indicated water pump lube (Napa #13) has worked wonders for him, but I am having a hard time finding it north of the border. So, I am considering adding 4 or 5 gallons of antifreeze (green if it matters) to the water. Is this an OK plan? Have any of you had success with this, or a different approach?
The water tank is inside, no sunshine gets to it, no algea issues as some have had.
To be clear, this is a stuska brake with the DEPAC ADL controller.
2: The other issue I may need to change is the way I filter the water. Up until now, I was running a sump type pump recirculating the water thru a bank of water filters (14" long style, cellulose) bought from home depot. I am thinking that a better way of doing this would be to somehow filter the water that comes OUT of the engine (cooling tower), BEFORE it gets to the big tank. All of the filters I have seen have a max temp rating far below the 180 degrees coming out of the cooling tower, so I wondered if anyone had some input on a good way to accomplish this. I had considered directing the water into a plastic 45 gallon barrel fashioned into a settling tank, where the crud would go to the bottom and not back into the 1250 gallon main tank... then a port in the side of the 45 gallon barrel halfway up to gravity flow back to the main tank thru a high temp filter to catch the little particles.
Thanks to all who help, I am planning to refill the tank tomorrow,
rb
I am in the process of changing the water in my dyno tank. I have a two part question:
1: I put the cooling water from the engine back into the same tank, so rust control is an issue. Last time around I used a pricey corrosion inhibitor (around 400 bucks) and while it worked alright, the water would still turn rusty color. I got around 4 years out of it, so that is not too bad, but looking for different options.
A few have suggested bleach, and indicated that by adding a gallon or 2 with 1000 gallons of water every six months will result in crystal clear water. That probably works fine for engines tested for one day then removed, but quite often I will have a test engine on the dyno for weeks at a time, and without any rust inhibitor, I am quite sure I am going to have corrosion issues as the water sits in the engine.
I know Larry Meaux indicated water pump lube (Napa #13) has worked wonders for him, but I am having a hard time finding it north of the border. So, I am considering adding 4 or 5 gallons of antifreeze (green if it matters) to the water. Is this an OK plan? Have any of you had success with this, or a different approach?
The water tank is inside, no sunshine gets to it, no algea issues as some have had.
To be clear, this is a stuska brake with the DEPAC ADL controller.
2: The other issue I may need to change is the way I filter the water. Up until now, I was running a sump type pump recirculating the water thru a bank of water filters (14" long style, cellulose) bought from home depot. I am thinking that a better way of doing this would be to somehow filter the water that comes OUT of the engine (cooling tower), BEFORE it gets to the big tank. All of the filters I have seen have a max temp rating far below the 180 degrees coming out of the cooling tower, so I wondered if anyone had some input on a good way to accomplish this. I had considered directing the water into a plastic 45 gallon barrel fashioned into a settling tank, where the crud would go to the bottom and not back into the 1250 gallon main tank... then a port in the side of the 45 gallon barrel halfway up to gravity flow back to the main tank thru a high temp filter to catch the little particles.
Thanks to all who help, I am planning to refill the tank tomorrow,
rb