hi rev or superharged...whitch kills the main webs first?

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krister
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hi rev or superharged...whitch kills the main webs first?

Post by krister »

Hi.
I am up to build a serious street & and strip 408w for my 69 mach1.
The setup will be premium parts built on a standard block 351w.
.i will use a maingirdle and hard block fill.
Though the most critical thing still would be the main webs...
i want to hear you others opinion to this.
Which is creating most stress for the engine..either a 650hp hi revving 7000-7500max or a supercharged 650hp 6000max rpm

I have driving 650hp 408w engines revving 7000rpm and know they will hold together. but a supercharged 650hp is out of my experience(very unusual with rootsblower ford engines in sweden)

is it cylinderpressure or the high rpm that is worst stress for the engine
SupStk
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Post by SupStk »

In my opinion the stock block in either application is risky. I've seen pretty nicely prepared 351W's pull the main webs on Wysota mods. At the very least keep your eye on the area around the bolts, cracks usually start there. With a 3" main diameter RPM is your enemy. Just my 2 cents worth.
krister
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Post by krister »

forgot to mention...I am not going to set up the car for 100% traction..
i am always going to allow some wheelspinn to relief the worst stress.
If it is at advantage for the supercharged application more than the natural aspitated i think.
joe

Post by joe »

"lugging" the motor is harder on the webs than any amount of rpm , stay well clear of detonation ! rpm's aren't really an issue ,or at least not as much as wide open throttle ,full load, low rpm . But with a blower you won't be at low rpm for long !
Do you have a late 351w or early ? early windsors have a little more beef in the bottom and you can put milodon caps on them. The "early " ones are c9 , do, and d1ae blocks ,also some d2's .
these are the preffered windsor blocks , also remember too chamfer the bore on the bottom as was mentioned in another thread on here about 302's .
krister
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Post by krister »

I am not familiar with the word "lugging"...is that what you explain with full trottle,low rpm...? otherwise explain in some easier way


I have a D4 casting.
I have read in my book "ford windsor smallblock performance" written by Isaac martin that all 69-74 blocks are to prefer he do not mention anything of pre-73..so you gave me som new information.
Is it a big difference between a -70 and a -74 block..should i throw the 74 and track up the earlier.
For all you that may think i just should buy a dart iron eagle...I have to say that what you pay 2500$ would cost me 3500$ with all taxes and customs.
So please give me more tips, i need all the info i can get from you ford wizards over there.
joe

Post by joe »

lugging = high load , low rpm . like pulling a heavy trailer uphill .

I know little about the 74+ blocks because I only look for the early "wide web" block . these early blocks have a strip of metal as wide as the main bearing cap all the way out to the pan rail , as opposed to a 74 block which looks like the main bearing cap is wedged in a V which merges at the caps themselves. these early blocks have the webbing machined all the way out ,and along , the pan rail.

If you go looking for a block look for the earliest block you can find ,all else being equal. The reason being that sometime in the early 70's , possibly in 1970 , ford started using c32 cast iron as opposed too c35 . at least in some engines at certain foundries , any more than that I am unsure of. Also the early blocks have thick cylinder walls which are partly siamesed at the top and bottom .

c35 has a nominal tensile strength of 35,000 pounds per sq in as opposed too 32,000 .

I like milodon caps . They are made of nodular iron which doesn't have the strength of steel billet , but the way I look at it what good is a steel cap when your block webbing will only hold 35,000 lbs per sq in ? I believe it's a good idea too have a "shock absorber " down there too make life easier on the webs ... You ain't gonna bust ANY cap , not even a factory one , unless you break the crank first which is a distinct possibilty with a blower . If you run enough boost you will break a crank at some point, but when the crank goes it will take out anything in its way steel billet included.

Nodular iron caps ,or any sort of iron cap , have a much greater ability too dampen vibration , when compared with steel.

Look on this site for pictures of the early windsor blocks

http://www.dscmotorsport.com
Torquemonster

Post by Torquemonster »

detonation is your enemy.

the boost required to make 650hp is not what I'd call very high... boost should be low enough to be able to build a strong reliable engine providing tune is right and you get a good seal.

webs aside - rpms provide much more stress than modest boost. A boosted engine can run well over 100,000 miles at modest rpms. Try that at 7500rpm in an overhead valve engine... not impossible but extremely unlikely.

The loads created by the blower are not small however - but at 650hp should be no problem

the load created by the boost at 6000rpm is no where close to the stress at 7500rpm on the reciprocating assembly.

rpms kill engines not horsepower
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