seat chiller for installation

[cboggs]

Anyone have a good solution for chilling valve seats & guides to install
other then the shop freezer??

I remember seeing this little counter top "chiller" years ago at a cup shop, ..
but can't remember who made it or where it came from.

Thanks,

Curtis

[SchmidtMotorWorks]

When this subject came up a few months ago I decided that if I ever wanted to cool stuff on a regular basis, I would get or make a super insulated cooler and use dry ice.

My grocery store just started carrying dry ice.

This would be a more favored toy for the shop though.

http://cgi.ebay.com/FRIGIMAT-DRY-ICE-MA ... dZViewItem

[Wolfplace]

Just get a tank of CO2 with a siphon tube. Instant "dry ice" at the turn of a handle.
Very inexpensive from any welding supply place.

What really works is liquid Nitrogen but shelf life really sucks so it gets real expensive

[hbps1978]

Curtis, I assume that you chill valve seats/valve guides before installation so that they are at their smallest diameter when you install them so that when they are at room temp or running temp they will expand and the expansion will help them stay in place?

Maybe a stupid question but the small machine shop where I worked at years ago, we did not chill valve seats or guides before installation. I mainly worked on cast iron back then also.

I asked because I know that no one within probably a 100 mile radius of where I'm located chills valve seats/guides. Of course there are no good quality machine shops within several miles of where I'm located either - lol.

Just trying to learn something here.

[cboggs]

hbps1978, ..

I would think any cylinder head guy worth his "salt" would chill seats & guides
to install. I use around 6-7 thou of crush or press fit on a seat ring in an
aluminum head.

By shrinking the seat it won't destroy the nice round bore I've just cut
for the seat ring, .. and I'll have the proper crush when it get's back to temp.

By just 'wacking" the seat in without chilling the seat or heating the head
it'll distort the aluminum as it goes in, and then I have no control over
how much press is holding the seat.

I've had heads where someone has replaced the seat rings but not
chilled them or heated the head, .. and on the race track the engine
will develop poor leak down numbers and leak past the seats in only
a few sessions. The seats move around more.

Mike, .. I've never done the CO2 instant dry ice thing, .. care to explain?
( hope the puppies are doing well )

I'm also looking around for a new cheap head oven, .. old pizza oven, ..
etc, .. and ideas?

Curtis

[SchmidtMotorWorks]

I'm also looking around for a new cheap head oven, .. old pizza oven, ..
etc, .. and ideas?

I've seen gas BBQ used to heat heads for welding.

[gofaster]

Don't forget to chill your guide and seat drivers, and wear gloves. If you're installing more than one seat or guide, chill the same number of drivers. Air hammer is helpful, but not necessary, and you have to be gentle with it.
If you need to make drivers, be sure to recess taper the driving face so it only contacts the seat or guide by the outside edge. Also make some room on the shaft so the driver won't get stuck in the guide or seat after you press or drive it in. (How did I learn that lesson?)

[Wolfplace]

Hi Curtis,
"Puppies" are doing whatever they want

CO2 with a siphon tube will come out as solid "dry ice"
Just stick a open end hose in a small box that will hold whatever it is you want to cool.
For instance, I use the box a sleeve comes in & just cut a hole in the top & stick the end of a -6 hose in it & spray the cylinder with about 30 seconds of "ice".
It will shrink enough to drop in a warmed block if you don't mess with it for too long & the ice will last for 15-20 minutes at least even in the summer.
Plenty of time to install the sleeve or all your seats if you are ready.
For seats & use a little box like what spring shims come in. You want to leave them in the box & take them out as you use them.
Put all eight in & fill it with CO2
As was mentioned above, use gloves,, it will smoke your little fingers big time if you don't,,,

I don't chill anything but the seats as whatever is coming in contact with them isn't touching them long enough to change the temp in my opinion
And for a pilot I just use some old adjustable pilots that ain't good for anything else anyway.
don't have to be anything accurate, just something that keeps everything reasonably centered so you don't spend a bunch of time screwing around while the seats warm up.
I just use a BFH (acronym for that special tool we all love) & the flat driving rings with a driver that fits over the pilot.
Feel by the time you get done screwing around with an air hammer & stuff a couple of whacks with a hammer is faster

Plus you get to take out your frustrations about the last customer that was a Pain in the ass

Don't have any oven ideas, I use a space heater to heat blocks for sleeves & just stick heads in my cleaning oven for 20 minutes or so. Gun says it is about 200 degrees.
Probably doesn't do much but makes me feel better,,,

[cboggs]

Mike,

Duhh, .. yea now I remember the CO2 thing, .. damn I'm getting old.
Did that in a shop I worked at in the early 80's.
That's exactly what I was looking for, .. something easier then what I've been
doing, .. and cheap too, .. .. thanks.

I'm with you on not bothering to chill the drivers & such, .. never had it
make a lick of difference.

Also I wouldn't taper the driving face on a seat driver, .. I want it flat
to the seat surface.

On aluminum heads, or on most modified heads for that matter
I NEVER use an air hammer to drive in guides. Too easy to crack
a very expensive head, .. ..

Curtis

[RedRacer]

Great explanation Wolfplace, I saw something in the goodson catalog, called a minnesota slow blower that connects to a siphon tube CO2 tank, but you are not using anything but a #6 hose on the tank hose connection? No special attachments? Thanks, Red.

[Wolfplace]

Great explanation Wolfplace, I saw something in the goodson catalog, called a minnesota slow blower that connects to a siphon tube CO2 tank, but you are not using anything but a #6 hose on the tank hose connection? No special attachments? Thanks, Red.

=
Thanks Red,
Yea, nothing special or trick, just a 3' -6 hose with a nozzle on the end that helps it stay in the box
Cheap, simple, easy,,,

[340Cuda]

Anyone have a good solution for chilling valve seats & guides to install
other then the shop freezer??

I remember seeing this little counter top "chiller" years ago at a cup shop, ..
but can't remember who made it or where it came from.

Thanks,

Curtis

Curtis,
A few years ago at AETC Dick Maskin gave a presentation. Either during his presentation or the Q&A he said he was getting a counter top freezer that could be used for this. I can't remember how cold he said it got but it was way below zero.

If you do not have a contact there maybe Darin can get you one.

Good luck,
Bill Lamb

[RedRacer]

I now am making dry ice, thanks to Wolfplace. One question for you, the bottle connection I got has a little screen in it, which I suppose may limit the flow. DO you remember if your adaptor had a screen in it, and can you think of any reason I should not remove the screen in this one?
Thank you Wolfplace,
Red

[Wolfplace]

I now am making dry ice, thanks to Wolfplace. One question for you, the bottle connection I got has a little screen in it, which I suppose may limit the flow. DO you remember if your adaptor had a screen in it, and can you think of any reason I should not remove the screen in this one?
Thank you Wolfplace,
Red

=
Hey, glad it's working for you

No screen, nothing but a -6 line about 3' long that I stick in the super secret hi tech box,,
Did you get a bottle with a siphon tube? If not you need to invert the bottle.

Years ago back when men were men & sheep were nervous,, I used to fill Nitrous bottles before the trick pumps & siphon bottles & I made a stand to hold the bottle inverted so the liquid would flow.
As I said though, this was a "few" years ago,,,