1968 440 mopar rebuild

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blue88
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1968 440 mopar rebuild

Post by blue88 »

Hello all, I am gonna be rebuild a 1968 chrysler 440 motor for a new yorker. Looking for some cam advice and some rering/re bearing kits suppliers.

Here are the specs. Weind spread bore manifold with 750 holley double pumper, 906 heads with valve job and back cut valves, original flat top pistons from 1968.. zero deck. Headers and 2500 stall speed trans. 2.76 rear gears. Looking for slightly warmer than stock cam for little idle chop but street manners.
wyrmrider
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Re: 1968 440 mopar rebuild

Post by wyrmrider »

which oem pistons
what's the compression height? center of the pin to the top
did you measure all 4 corners when you pulled the motor down?
stock heads are going to need seats and guides, are you sure you want to invest in them?
can you score a set of 915 or other closed chamber head?
if not and you want to use stock heads think real hard about getting the KB special pistons for your application
only way to make that combo work
there is no easy answer
I'll comment on cam when you determine the compression
blue88
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Re: 1968 440 mopar rebuild

Post by blue88 »

Only the heads are off the motor.. put square on 2 corners of block and pistons basically flush with the top of deck... not zero decked at machine shop. I don't have the pistons out to measure the pin to top of piston. These are stock 1968 440 pistons. I am using the 906 heads.. Motor is not getting new pistons. I am not boring it.. it only had 50k miles and minimal bore taper.
wyrmrider
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Re: 1968 440 mopar rebuild

Post by wyrmrider »

The only pistons that come near the top of the block are the 6 pack pistons
did you mike all four corners?
do these pistons have valve notches?
does the dampner indicate a neutral balance? or does it have a balance weight?
Is this the OEM engine in the New Yorker- if so the pistons should be down the hole
since they never came with 6 Pack something does not compute
That said if the pistons do come to the top of the block- which takes about a 2 1/16 compression heights
if your heads are 86cc and a felpro gasket and you really are 0 deck you are a little over 10:1
if the heads are 80cc...10.75
which is way to much for an open chamber head on pump gas (in a Heavy car, tall gears, tight converter, etc)
but they are more likely nearer 90 cc if out of a stock motor- so get the big syringe out and check
they can also be off end to end so check both ends and your machinist can make them the same
late 440's pistons were down about an 1/8th
yours may be down 060-090 get the depth mic or dial calapiers out and check all four corners at tdc
if you are down .090 and your heads are 86cc you are at 8.5
If you are 8.5 go to Jones Racing Cams and fill out the street form
If you are 10:1 give Howards a look
review this thread
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=41145&p=518389#p518389
ps I have (or had) 1 65, 1 66 and one 59 D body, a 70 C body, 3 73 C bodies a 73 Satallite wagon and a 78 440 Maxivan
Favorite motor is a 9:1 with 915 heads 0.0 deck with TRW 6 Pack pistons with D Dish machined in and Jones cam
open chamber heads are a bitch without 100 octane gas except on the strip
what exhaust, I used Dodge C body PC exhaust on my C bodies and HP B Body on the Imperials and 73 wagon
cheers
blue88
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Re: 1968 440 mopar rebuild

Post by blue88 »

thanks for info.

I mentioned i check 2 corners.
Piston have no valve reliefs.
steel crank.. no extra balance.. this is 1968 stock motor.. not rebuilt.. steel crank neutral balance.
gonna use original copper gaskets.. i have a set.

Thank you sir for info.
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Re: 1968 440 mopar rebuild

Post by andyf »

Use the Mopar Performance .528 solid lifter cam for a slightly lopey idle. The MP .528 will make good power without harming the street manners too much. Do not use the Mopar .509 hyd cam. It is a big fat lazy cam that has low vacuum and a poor idle. Lots of people use the 509 cam and then regret it.
Andy F.
AR Engineering
wyrmrider
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Re: 1968 440 mopar rebuild

Post by wyrmrider »

Ok- if no valve reliefs it's not a 6 pack piston so it is not down stock about .015
Being a New Yorker it's not likely a HP motor which would be down .060 (unless there was a motor swap in the last 45 years)
does it have HP exhaust manifolds?
What did you get measuring all four corners?
AS you may have surmised there is a big difference between the advertised/ blueprint for NHRA stock and out of the box/ fresh off the motor head cc's
which makes a big difference in your planning
measure twice- cut once
if you have in reality a low compression motor call Mike Jones absolutely best 256@.005 204@.050 .305 lobe lift Asymetrical lobe
higher compression Howards has a full range of MOPAR grinds and seem best optimized for .904 lifter
so does Ultradine and
Crower (non catalog grinds, catalog are not optimised- call Dave Crower direct and
ENGLE (easiest to look at the AMC section as it's first up online) K6.5, K7 etc all work very well

Comp only has the Purple shaft series wich are too big for your application
find anything that not's a Chevy grind
but cc your heads and figure true compression before thinking of cams
what are you doing for exhaust? I may have a spare set of 440 CHP Big Dodge PC manifolds if you need them
B Body manifolds and headers interfere with the steering box on a C body- driver manifold exits behind #7
New Yorker exhaust exits between 5 and 7
blue88
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Re: 1968 440 mopar rebuild

Post by blue88 »

NO HP manifolds.... they are very overrated and overpriced. I have set of headers I am going to use and modify linkage for trans. If i have issue with steering box... i plan to engineer a rack and pinion to replace the old steering box.

Thanks for the advice sir.
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Re: 1968 440 mopar rebuild

Post by wyrmrider »

what headers did you find that would fit a C body? or is rack and pinon required
here's my std C body setup
torsions bars from late 70's Dodge cop car about 1.08 instead of .98
rear sway from a cordoba (also works on late B body wagon)
cop wheels and tires
did you read
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/tech ... der_heads/
blue88
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Re: 1968 440 mopar rebuild

Post by blue88 »

"I have set of headers I am going to use and modify linkage for trans. If i have issue with steering box... i plan to engineer a rack and pinion to replace the old steering box". I am not there yet sir. I have not even put motor back together... I will cut and weld whatever is necessary to make it work and if clearance is not possible...i will put back on the stock manifolds and call it a day.

Thanks.
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