Milling Chevy heads.

[pdq67]

Thanks autogear.

pdq67

[pdq67]

TTT..

I am still looking for info on how much to mill a 305HO, -601 head to remove a cc?

For my next junk301 engine.

Anybody know??

Please................

pdq67

[F-BIRD'88]

You çan graph/map the chamber contour on 1 millimeter graph paper.
Trace the chamber onto the paper.
Download the pdf here and print up a few sheets.

Now add up all the whole squares, + all the 1/2 squares that are within the traced
Chamber contour on the graph paper.
The sum of the squares is the chamber AREA in square millimeters.

That times depth (cut) is cubic millimeters (volume)

Cut (milled) depth is in millimeters, not inches.

Pdf file

http://www.printablepaper.net/preview/g ... -1mm-index

[F-BIRD'88]

A ported vortec head would rock on this project.

Same with a fully ported aluminum #113 or cast #083 L-98
TPI engine head.
Lots of choices.

Any "302 domed piston" will need custom clearancing grinding to clear
These chambers.

[Sir Yun]

http://www.mjpdyno.com/software.htm

they have a port area calculator from scanned data (traced/photo).

never used it myself . I have the cam program that is pretty interesting

[pdq67]

Junk301 build.

Flat-top pistons and long rods! That's why I need to be down in the 55 cc chamber size range. (Piston DITH at .025" and a Felpro #1094 .015" thick shim head gasket.)..

My old 305HO,-601 heads cc at 53 and 55 cc's. So I'm thinking of 1.94" or 2.02" intake valves and 1.60" exhaust valves relieve the chambers around the valves and then mill back to 55 cc's.

I cc'd the -601 intake ports and they are right at 160 cc's so after clean-up, they should do fine for me, imho.. probably get them out to about 170 or so??

It should come in to right at 10 to 1 CR!

pdq67.

[kirkwoodken]

Paul, that 301 needs the 244*@.050" CC street roller/FT Harold had made for you. If your FT works anything like the roller, you'll have plenty of low end and good top end power. Memory says that cam was about 144*@.200" lift, about the same as the #140. I think 2.5 and 3.73-3.90 would be doable, but I imagine you have some lower rear gears in you reserve pile. I always ran 5.12's or 5.38's behind my old street squeakers. Lakewood shield, right?

[pdq67]

Kirk,

The cam UDHarold made for me is for my 496.

It's a solid flat-tappet lifter cam.

Spec's are: 278/249/161, 110/106, .618" lift and needs .018" hot lash.

It is per Harold, a solid flat-tappet lifter version of CC's great old 288AR solid street roller.

The solid flat-tappet lifter cam I am going to install in my 301 spec's are: 280/246, 108/108, .498" lift and need's .030" hot lash.

I am going to install 1.6 ratio rockers so it will be right at .500" lashed.

pdq67

[wyrmrider]

.030 lash- must be a vintage grind
just your cup a tea

[pdq67]

Right and I know it is an "old-school" cam but it should still do what I want it to.

Thanks,

pdq67

[F-BIRD'88]

A Isky Z-27 #201027 cam will work better. 282 282 247-247-108-.507" .507" .016"-.018" ish lash.


A Erson F282-3 #E110822 is another good one 282-290 246-254 .510 .510 108 .022"-.025"

Crane F278-2 #113841 278-288 238-248 .480" .500" 114/109 .022"

You can play with that lash a bit and play with the installed position. on either, to fine tune.

[pdq67]

Thanks F,

But I have the cam in my bedroom closet along with my new 300-36 Holley high-rise intake.

pdq67

[F-BIRD'88]

Thanks F,

But I have the cam in my bedroom closet along with my new 300-36 Holley high-rise intake.

pdq67

You can play with the lash and the installed cam position on that one too.
You can tighten up the .030" hot lash setting quite a bit.
Try .014"-.016" COLD. Find the happy spot. (I suggest .014" to .022" COLD lash.)
The engine will show you what it likes best.
The tighter lash set makes the cam be a bit bigger to the engine.
Effective when the cam is a bit tame-small for the job. It adds effective running duration at the valves.

You can go quite a bit tighter (than .030" hot) lash but watch when running looser than spec lash.
You only have limited looser lash adjustment.

[F-BIRD'88]

But I have the cam in my bedroom closet

Be aware that getting the right camshaft in the first place, as opposed to the one you got hidden away in your closet for 5 years, will make a LOT more engine power and performance difference than all the "Long Rod" and rocker arm swap Hokas Pokas.

Do not waste your money on BS. On a 3" stroke SBC, a stock length 5.7" connecting rod is a "long rod" on that engine.
A 283 -302 piston with a small flat dome on it to get 10:1 10.50:1 without requiring Milling heads way down will not impeed flame travel.

Alterbatively instead of trying the build a high compression "301" with all the hokas pockas
from your 283.
Consider building a simple low compression +.030 or +.060" over dirt simple flat top piston 283
with low compression ratio and then supercharging it with a small street blower.
EG the Weiand 142 or the Edelbrock/Magnasun MP122.
These little blowers do wild things to a simple low cr 283-300 inch street motor.
(you want low 8:1 ish compression) it allows you to run a good amount of supercharger boost on 92 octane gas)
The Crane F278-2 or F280-2 solid lifter street cam is just right for this lil blown 283-291 cid

I'd use the ported 64cc camel backs on this one.

Yes you have invest in the supercharger but THE PAYOFF is B I G!
You are spending your money where it returns real performance.

The smaller roots street blowers are very efficient and effective on smaller 283-300 ish CID engines. It really multiplies the power and performance on the smaller SBC's.
The effect is B I G!

Now you got a lil screamin' street motor that revs like a old school 302 AND makes the street power of a modern 383-406 SB.

You will wish you had done this to a 283 years ago.

[pdq67]

I guess I could bite the bullet and use one of my 400 blocks here.

A .030" over 400 with 5 cc flat-tops and a 3.00" crank will make a 325.4" engine. Add my -291, 64 cc big valve double-hump heads, a DITH of .025" and .015" reworked shims will give me right at 9.94 to 1 CR.

Just have to mickey-mouse the main bearings is all.

What do you think?

pdq67