anyone using a carby style EFI with blowthrough set up

[maca]

Hey guys
Is anyone on here using an aftermarket carby style EFI system with a blow through application. There seems to be heaps on the market.
I have had a Google but cant find a lot of info on supercharging with them. Let alone a blow through supercharger.
I have read on the manufacture's websites that some say if supercharging they are good up to 600HP. I am guessing that will be FWHP.
I had a look at some of the Manufactures forums and there seems to be quite a lot of people in the help forums trying to sort out all king of issues but they claim it to be a plug and play deal.
cheers Maca

[F-BIRD'88]

If I was going to do a Blow thru with EFI I would use a EFI with 8 injectors. ( direct port injection)
Can be a 4bbl style throttle valve type but the bolt on TBI style EFI's only have 4 injectors.
Really taxed on fuel flow on a healthy blown motor. You do not want to come up short on fuel injector flow capacity on a blown motor.

8 injectors is better. (EFI blow thru) Just like 2 X 4bbl carbs is better (carby blow thru)

Injector bosses can be added to pretty much any good 4bbl carby intake manifold.

Either or BOTH the injector duty cycle AND or the fuel pressure must rise along with the boost.

A blown motor needs more fuel/HP than a N/A motor of equal power. (charge/chamber cooling)

[user-23911]

Use a megasquirt, that's what they're best at.

[RednGold86Z]

My company makes an 8 x 80lb/hr injector system that does blowthrough. I use it on my daily driver 69 nova with a solid roller 383 with a p600b procharger. It put down 519hp to the wheels 2 weeks ago. http://www.fitechefi.com

It's a damn good system (I must say) and easy to install. The ECU is mounted on the front of the throttle body, and you'd only need to hook up 4 wires for the most basic installation (tach signal, key, battery, and fuel pump drive). It grounds through the base of the throttle body. There is a 2.5bar MAP sensor on the ECU, also.

For the 1200hp capable system ($1495), you also get the power adder features, such as nitrous controls (input and output), second fan control, AC compressor input. It can do timing control also (it can drive a coil directly, but with a blower or high RPMs you should send the timing signal to a CDI box).

It has pretty much everything built-in, including the fuel pressure regulator. You only need to install a wideband sensor in the exhaust (clamp-on / weld on bung included), and a coolant temperature sensor (sensor and reducer included).

Of course it's self learning for the fuel map and idle speed control. There is a handheld programmer included (touchscreen and a button) for the initial setup and tuning (windshield mount included). Out of the box tune is pretty good though. You can adjust pretty much anything you'd need to adjust with the handheld, but if you really want the screen size of a laptop, there is software available to use one.

There's also a 4 injector unit for $995 for basic and $1195 with power adder functions. These are 600hp capable. We also do dual quads. We have also released a few new products at SEMA that are sure to make some waves (a port EFI system using the same throttle body + ECU combo, including an Edelbrock manifold, 550hp injectors, fuel rails, etc... for $1795)

Check us out! There's no one else at this price & feature list (in production yet). We're currently in Jegs and on Pace Performance, and we also sell direct on the website.

[maca]

Really interesting guys. Thanks for the input. The reason I was looking at the 4 injector carby style is I thought you had to run a computer like a Haltech to run efi.
The Haltech I looked at here was $2500 and that's with no efi stuff yet. This is not an old LA 360 that was released in these old cars. it is a 360 magnum released in the 90s which was EFI so it has a crank angle sensor ready to go. I assume with efi I would need this.
I will check out these kits mentioned an see what else I will need as well to do the whole job.
cheers

[RednGold86Z]

Really interesting guys. Thanks for the input. The reason I was looking at the 4 injector carby style is I thought you had to run a computer like a Haltech to run efi.
The Haltech I looked at here was $2500 and that's with no efi stuff yet. This is not an old LA 360 that was released in these old cars. it is a 360 magnum released in the 90s which was EFI so it has a crank angle sensor ready to go. I assume with efi I would need this.
I will check out these kits mentioned an see what else I will need as well to do the whole job.
cheers

The FiTech system (rhymes with high-tech, not f.i.tech, not fit-tech) has the computer built in. You'd just need a high pressure fuel supply, and a return (we sell these too).

You can connect the Tach Input to the tach signal from the ignition system for the RPM signal, and keep whatever ignition system you have. Otherwise, you could buy an MSD or other 2-wire distributor system for doing timing control. Or, use a ready-to-run system, and again do fuel control only.

You don't need a special crank signal, though. It's only set up for either a 1 pulse per cylinder tach signal (can be from the coil - side, or from a tachometer signal) for fuel only control, or a 2-wire VR signal (also once per cylinder) for fuel and ignition timing control.

Being a "carburetor" style EFI, there's no "sequential" synchronization needed, so you don't need a cam signal.

Google it, you'll like it. It's the no-brainer best out there.

[maca]

Thanks I will.
I already have an in-tank Aeromotive stealth 340 efi pump installed with a boost referenced Aeromotive fuel reg.
I also have a MSD dizzy with a MSd 6al-2 programmable ignition.
So I am interested as I had a bad experience trying to tune a blow through carb

[F-BIRD'88]

Just fix the carb... Its not rocket science.
I bet its not the carb at all.

Heat related engine fault. Ignition box, coil, valve guide cl, cracked head, cracked block intake leak..

Stick that carb on a different car and drive it.
I bet its not the carb at all.

You will need dyno tuning to get the efi right.
Just dyno tune the carb.......

[F-BIRD'88]

Fubared pressure regulator pressure creep when hot.

Over heated carb + fuel lines+ hot regulator etcetc.
The fuel is just getting way too hot.
Poor fuel line routing etc etc.

Engine bay too hot.. retarded timing etc.

[maca]

I have had it to 4 places and they all cant work it out so could be heat as you say. I have a spare holley pump and reg that came off not long ago. I would like to hook it up from a small fuel source to bypass all my fuel lines and drive it. Then I would know with in 30 min if its hot fuel. My only thought was running a line from a Jerry can in the car but i was worried about static electricity and being dangerous etc etc.
It will tell me straight away but just have to work it out safely.
I have moved the fuel lines twice now but being a v8 i have to run past an exhaust either side.

[blown265]

Gday Maca
Further to the comments on fuel heat, I believe regulating the EFI pump pressure down to carb levels could be aggravating the situation. (unnecessarily over pressuring /over heating the off boost constant fuel delivery)
My early blow through petrol setups were VERY sensitive to fuel and air temps- two completely different levels of performance and driveability from cold to hot.
A switch in fuel type and addition of a water/air intercooler solved the consistency issues.
Regards
Paul

[maca]

Yes your right Paul.
I just need to work out a way to run the car for 30 to 40 min using the old system and not the new fuel lines. Then I will know straight away.

[F-BIRD'88]

On my car the fuel line does not get any where near the exhaust. You can too.
"had t to 4 places" you must be rolling in money. Try working on your own car.
Fix it yourself. I see what the whole problem is now.

[maca]

On my car the fuel line does not get any where near the exhaust. You can too.
"had t to 4 places" you must be rolling in money. Try working on your own car.
Fix it yourself. I see what the whole problem is now.

I do nearly all the work but this carby caught me out and I need someone with more knowledge but as you said the real reason I was having so many issues was heat. Funny I always do a better job on my car than anyone else. Just very fussy. I am never 100% happy when someone else does my work. I will be onto it soon.