Gathering parts.. mild SBF 347

[Old as Dirt]

This is Scats under -$300 rods with minor cleanup. Ford sized journal Chevy pin. 524 out of box.. 514 grams now.. probably end up nearer to 506-508 once all is said and done after they're turned into oil shedding mirrors. Machining spec's were spot on.

2016-04-26 11.56.14.jpg

Minor clean up? bet your fingers are black and sore.. those look great!

[wyrmrider]

related Ford Windsor question
I have a couple of 351 projects in the works, one for my 83 302 currently C-6 equipped bronco (will get an AOD)
I have one 400 crank so one motor can be a 400
I have a stack of E6SE heads from replacing with GT-40 or other heads. E6SE's were used in big cars and trucks long after mustangs.
Most mustang head swappers have been happy- those with Pick-Up or lincoln- Crown vic it's spotty- several did not like the loss of low end
I've seen that ported E6SE's may not be bad for my applications-- I too do not want to loose any rock crawling ability in the Bronco and the Crown Vic is an AOD car
Anybody have any experience on pocket ported E6SE's or another suggestion for low end grunt? Valve sizes, etc
Thanks

[groberts101]

Minor clean up? bet your fingers are black and sore.. those look great!

well.. maybe wrong terminology to use but carbide bit, belt sander and fine grit flapwheel makes it seem like minor clean up at about 15-20 minutes per rod. Profiling bolt bosses, eliminating all sharp edges along with digging into the sides of the beams purely to improve surface finish is what really sucks up the time. The final shot peening usually dulls down all that pretty shine though.

As for weights?.. I think pistonguy is pretty close with his BE estimate. Haven't weighed these yet and might be a hair less, 360'ish?.. with an extra bit of hand work put into them.

[groberts101]

related Ford Windsor question
I have a couple of 351 projects in the works, one for my 83 302 currently C-6 equipped bronco (will get an AOD)
I have one 400 crank so one motor can be a 400
I have a stack of E6SE heads from replacing with GT-40 or other heads. E6SE's were used in big cars and trucks long after mustangs.
Most mustang head swappers have been happy- those with Pick-Up or lincoln- Crown vic it's spotty- several did not like the loss of low end
I've seen that ported E6SE's may not be bad for my applications-- I too do not want to loose any rock crawling ability in the Bronco and the Crown Vic is an AOD car
Anybody have any experience on pocket ported E6SE's or another suggestion for low end grunt? Valve sizes, etc
Thanks

Walter Malik is the guy who can steer you straight about those heads. Say's he used to like them because they have better chamber designs and more meat for milling to smaller chambers. Been wanting to do a set for some lower budget guys who typically run the E7's but I haven't looked hard enough to get them on the cheap. Plus, I try to keep the excuses ongoing to help me avoid grinding iron these days simply because it's just too damned time consuming.

[piston guy]

The E6SE head is "normally " avoided because of it's poor design. GT40 iron or aluminum are a far better choice.


wyrmrider,
Look carefully at the cost of modifying the stock 400 crank , it could be as much as an aftermarket 4" Windsor crank. Unless you do the work yourself.

[wyrmrider]

Thanks for the tips piston guy - always a straight shot from you
IDK if the E6S# heads are a poor design for heavy vehicles as GT-40's do loose some low end
any other choices out there?
I've sent several stock 400's out before but it's been years when the aftermarket stuff was pricey- I'll check it out
I' don't have a crinkgrinder

[piston guy]

GT40 iron ( three line or P four line) are great for low end power since they were OEM on 5.0 Explorer engines. They would be borderline too small on a 400+ci engine. I have the x305 heads on my daily driver 408 and it is a torque monster at 520+ ftlbs.
The 400 crank was ok until the aftermarket cast cranks hit the market. Mine was about $200 on sale a few years back.

[Old as Dirt]

Whats your preference? Pressed or bushed? and why? .927 pin

[wyrmrider]

Is the motor coming apart often?
If not pressed- just MYHO
but then I've go all the tools to do pressed
If I had to send them out I'd stay with locks- just dbl check carefully

[piston guy]

Whats your preference? Pressed or bushed? and why? .927 pin

Millions of cars run pressed pins , but most aftermarket rods are bushed. From a wear standpoint , pressed pins limit the wear area whereas floating pins do not. In high load situations I have seen pressed pins that are blued on the top half . In high rpm applications ( very long ago) I had a few pressed pins "migrate'' out and hit the cylinder wall. Floating pins and round wire locks are virtually bullet proof now days.

[wyrmrider]

I've seen blue pins too
good to know about "now days" piston guy
they certainly were not in the Fordgetrue days
WE figured the pin was up against the lock then flexed and kicked out the lock
we drilled holes from the back of the ring to the pin to "pressure oil"
we OD honed the hard chromed pins to help hold some oil

[Old as Dirt]

good move on the e-mail on the pistons

AFR referred me to Wiesco.. I prefer working with Randy @ RaceTec..

[groberts101]

The E6SE head is "normally " avoided because of it's poor design. GT40 iron or aluminum are a far better choice.

The e6se's port designs are nearly identical to the E7's. And many others from that same era for that matter as Ford apparently didn't like making excessive change from one year to the next. It's the CHAMBER design of the E6's that killed that head(severe shrouding), not so much the ports themselves. As mentioned earlier, Mr Malik will tell you how well they ran on the dirt track stuff after some milling away of those recessed chambers. I've also read where other porters/builders say the same exact thing.

I do completely agree that the 40's work better "out of the box", so to speak.. but would rarely waste my time on anything made of iron these days. Life is just too damned short to run iron heads and flat tappet cams any more.

Personally speaking, I port the hell out of everything and usually prefer a heart or kidney shaped chamber that has enough material to be reshaped and gives better squish(larger dual quench zones) vs an open chamber that gives less latitude for shape and increased compression. Aftermarket stuff follows that same trend for a reason as well. Take about a .100 thou off the E6's and add some porting with around .600" roller cam'd valve lift.. and they'll make plenty of steam. Can't do that to the E7's without sinking the valves to stay out of the seats.

As for the pressed vs floating debate.. it makes no sense to have some guy torching away and beating up your hard earned parts to even consider pressed pins any more. Floating pins wear the bore better and are just SOOOOO much easier to be mocking in and out of an engine during fitting/blueprinting. If it's just stock junk you're tossing together and close enough gets you where you need to be?.. then so be it. Otherwise make life simpler for yourself and run floated.

[Old as Dirt]

For 310.00 shipped from SCAT in California, these should do the trick.. Ford Journal and Chevy pin.. 7/16 capscrews, 539 Grams.. also ordered a set of Randy's "Auto Tec" .275" dome forged pistons through Mike Lewis(Wolfplace) and should come out to 10.6:1 for the build.. along with the semi snotty solid flat tappet cam from Mike Jones, and the great breathing AFR 185's, should be a nice runner.. looking for a solid 400ftlb/400HP.. any more would be icing on the cake..

[wyrmrider]

as long as the pistons have a high deck for 0 deck or some other tight quench method you should be good to go- also minimizes dome
what rings and gaskets?