434 sbc

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vht
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434 sbc

Post by vht »

I have a 434 in my 72 chevelle. Bought a mild 454 that I'm putting in it this winter just for a cruiser. I'm putting the 434 in a 40 chev coupe project along with a 400 turbo. It'll see some strip use, so I'm looking for a little more HP. Right now it has a solid roller, Bullet with Morel lifters, 657 lift, I'd have to look at the cam card for more, it's been 4 yrs. Older Dart Pro1 heads, ported, Super Vic, 850 QF Q series, Motown block, Eagle forged rotating assy, 10.5 comp, pump gas. Runs pretty good now, and with the lighter car it'll help. I kinda worry about the solid rollers on the street, what would be a good hyd roller that'd you'd recommend without breaking the bank, and loosing any hp? I have to run the taller 842 lifters because the tie bar hits the block. Would a 1050 Dom or a 1000cfm QF 4150 be a better choice for a carb? Some of you that have dynoed your big inch small blocks, pump gas, give me some suggestions, please.
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Re: 434 sbc

Post by bigjoe1 »

Hyd rollers are for girls and old ladies.



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Re: 434 sbc

Post by MadBill »

Isky's (and now Comp and others) bushed rollers are claimed to have up to 5X the street life of needle rollers. A little pricey, but cheaper than picking needles out of your oil pump. (and they will keep you off of Joe's Wall of Wimps...)
Felix, qui potuit rerum cognscere causas.

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Re: 434 sbc

Post by user-612937456 »

I just went through this discussion with Mike Jones at Jones cams and he were highly recommended the bush solid rollers over there hydraulic roller 4 a moderate 2 medium performance Street 434 application quote.

"Lifter# XLR-8R01 w/BB1350 bushing upgrade
.842", SBC V8 265-400, 0.300 Tall, On-Center
Pressure-fed axle oiling, .750" wheel
Roller wheels fitted with BB850 bushing material for endurance use.
Price: $861.00"
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Re: 434 sbc

Post by F-BIRD'88 »

Reduce the valve lash about 30% from cam card hot setting. Install a rev kit.
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Re: 434 sbc

Post by vht »

I reduced the valve lash. Should have mentioned that I have 1 3/4 headers on the chevelle, when it's swapped, what do you recommend, 1 7/8 or 2?
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Re: 434 sbc

Post by superpursuit »

If you really want a replacement cam that doesn't lose power over what you have now you really need to tell EXAXTLY what your cam specs are now. You need to post all the cam's specs, not just the lift. I don't think any one here has a crystal ball to tell what cam you have.
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Re: 434 sbc

Post by MadBill »

F-BIRD'88 wrote:Reduce the valve lash about 30% from cam card hot setting. Install a rev kit.
The former is very tempting, but I'd like to hear camking's views before cold lashing my Jones cam aluminum BBC to zero. For the latter, I'm having trouble finding a rev kit to clear 7/16" push rods. #-o
Felix, qui potuit rerum cognscere causas.

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Re: 434 sbc

Post by af2 »

vht wrote:I reduced the valve lash. Should have mentioned that I have 1 3/4 headers on the chevelle, when it's swapped, what do you recommend, 1 7/8 or 2?
Mufflers? If yes then those headers are too big. LOL
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Re: 434 sbc

Post by F-BIRD'88 »

MadBill wrote:
F-BIRD'88 wrote:Reduce the valve lash about 30% from cam card hot setting. Install a rev kit.
The former is very tempting, but I'd like to hear camking's views before cold lashing my Jones cam aluminum BBC to zero. For the latter, I'm having trouble finding a rev kit to clear 7/16" push rods. #-o
A all aluminum BBC is a bit of a special case. The cam lobes should-can be -are designed to account for the increased expected lash growth
cold to hot and running. I have a friend here that is doing a big cid big power all aluminum BBC now, for the street.
He is having to get some stuff custom made.. EG: head studs. Thats the joys. If you cannot find it off the shelf ya have to make it. I am sure Mike Jones has to work thru or at least gets asked to advise for this kind of non typical stuff for his other customers.
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Re: 434 sbc

Post by vht »

I'll get cam specs tomorrow evening when I get in. On headers, I was thinking stepped, 1 3/4 to 1 7/8's. Didn't know if they'd make much difference or not. I have 3in on the chevelle, was going bigger on the chev coupe. If someone does have a crystal ball, let me know, I'd like to borrow it.
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Re: 434 sbc

Post by F-BIRD'88 »

4 years and you still do no know what the valve lash is on your race motor.....

And you wonder why (some) people have trouble with solid roller lifters.
Have your roller lifters already been subject to abuse. (lash set too big, lash not set right, lack of lash maintenance.....

They do not heal them selves if already abused.

The cam card "Hot Lash spec" may/probably results in the lash point being at or near the end of the cams lash ramp, where
the lift curve changes to a much higher lift rate on the opening flank of the lobe.
This is fine for limited SHORT time running like 1/4 mile drag racing and may give best ET performance.
The engine is only run for a short times and the expected service life is relatively short.
But on the street where it actually gets driven and fully warmed up and is expected to last a reasonable life span you want
to set the valve lash a bit tighter than this max perf lash point to account for expansion from cold to hot and increased real running time.
Even if that reduced lash setting reduces the car performance a little bit. Any real change in performance will be very small.

If when you set the lash tighter than what you usually do and the valvetrain is noticeably quieter at idle once the motor is all warmed up "hot" that is a good clue.. Of course correct lash setting method matters A LOT.
If you don't set or cannot be bothered to set the lash correctly in the first place don't expect a long service life.


You can set the valve lash quite a bit tighter than what the cam card says (especially when setting it cold instead of hot)(and or aluminum cylinder heads)
but you only have small limited room to run the valve lash bigger than spec . If you say set the lash bigger than cam card and the valvetrain is Noisier than usual at idle when HOT you are likely getting carried away. (its too loose)

The set lash point is no longer on the lash ramp of the cam lobe. On the street you want to avoid this.

A quiet(er) valvetrain is a happier valvetrain. Solid roller lifters do not heal them selves if already abused.
Last edited by F-BIRD'88 on Wed Jul 13, 2016 11:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 434 sbc

Post by MadBill »

F-BIRD'88 wrote:
MadBill wrote:
F-BIRD'88 wrote:Reduce the valve lash about 30% from cam card hot setting. Install a rev kit.
The former is very tempting, but I'd like to hear camking's views before cold lashing my Jones cam aluminum BBC to zero. For the latter, I'm having trouble finding a rev kit to clear 7/16" push rods. #-o
A all aluminum BBC is a bit of a special case. The cam lobes should-can be -are designed to account for the increased expected lash growth
cold to hot and running. I have a friend here that is doing a big cid big power all aluminum BBC now, for the street.
He is having to get some stuff custom made.. EG: head studs. Thats the joys. If you cannot find it off the shelf ya have to make it. I am sure Mike Jones has to work thru or at least gets asked to advise for this kind of non typical stuff for his other customers.
Mine's a 495" ex-McLaren Can Am motor going in my one owner '70-1/2 Z28, all era-correct circa 1970 except for valve gear and rings and yes, I had to provide Mike a TON of component, flow, driveline and application data for him to spec out my cam!
Felix, qui potuit rerum cognscere causas.

Happy is he who can discover the cause of things.
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Re: 434 sbc

Post by F-BIRD'88 »

Mine's a 495" ex-McLaren Can Am motor going in my one owner '70-1/2 Z28, all era-correct circa 1970 except for valve gear and rings and yes, I had to provide Mike a TON of component, flow, driveline and application data for him to spec out my cam!


Beauti ;-)
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Re: 434 sbc

Post by F-BIRD'88 »

For your '40 chev coupe I would keep the cam you got.
If the lifters are worn, or suspect , just simply replace them. Craig list the old ones or keep for spares. Set the lash nice and tight this time.
For a new Induction System for this car ditch the single plane manifold and carb.
Get a Performer RPM DUAL QUAD air gap intake and 2 750 cfm Edelbrock carbs.

The is a powerful cool induction system on this 434 CID SBC motor.

With this you can experiment with different carb spacers(s) to see what the motor likes for best 1/4 mile perf.
It will drive around on the street real nice and probably make MORE power than current.
Very cool and fitting for that car. Getting a real deal torque converter and the right gears for the car and some sticky tires is a lot more important than small changes in the headers. 1-3/4" is fine. You can mess with the exhaust collectors some.
3" dual exhaust is plenty. Bigger will just be a LOT louder and more annoying to drive and no faster.
Your money is better spend on Dyno testing to get the carbs and spacer(S) dialed in on the dual quad.

There are two different versions of the cam lobes used on your 252-260 Bullet roller cam.
They use different lash. So.... what (range of valve lash) depends on which cam lobes you got on your Bullet roller cam...
The cam is fine as is.


The Dual Quad Hi Rise Induction all fits under hood on that '40 Chev Coupe. Potential for a very cool car that you will really enjoy driving and racing.
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