Almost none of those parts can be found in the junk yards around here. I'm not sure why the selection is so much worse but if any of those things came in the gate around here it'd be picked clean within days. I had to search 3 different yards today to find this head. Most of the stuff that is that old has been crushed already.roc wrote:Valuable info here!Xnke wrote:When it comes down to long term, reliable, moderate power, you can't beat the HP-per-dollars of a mild turbo setup.
How many cubic dollars for that 4 CUL? For a street truck?
Anyway, to directly answer how I'd do it for the stated application, Ranger pickup with 4.10's and modified stock parts:
2.5L ranger engine, completely stock. (160$ at my local parts yard, WAY more common than 2.3L's around here.)
Find an SVO mustang and strip the computer/turbo/intake/wiring/etc and use that, since it's the factory turbo 2.3L, OR
GM '7730 4-cylinder computer, trigger wheel, and coil pack, something from a 4-banger 90's cavalier or similar. Extremely tunable and dirt cheap. Very well supported.
Fuel injectors from GM L67 supercharged 3.8L V6 or find some Volvo Turbo injectors, the 4, 5, or 6 cylinder engines are all fine.
Turbo from a Volvo Turbo, 6.5L GM diesel, or whatever you can find...lots of things out there will work fine.
Intercooler from a Volvo or Volkswagen, Volvo will be wide and tall and thin to fit directly up against the radiator, volkswagen will likely be smaller and thicker to work as a side or top-mount. If going with the volvo setup, pull the radiator/condensor/intercooler/electric fan and use it all. It's engineered to work together and does a very good job.
Make a simple log manifold for the turbo, or find a reproduction SVO manifold.
SVO mustang parts might be hard to find these days...so I provided the alternative parts that I personally would use. The Volvos to look for are the older square-ish ones, 740T-760T-940T-960T and the like. Most of those engines are 2.5L or so and so even the turbo from one will be nearly perfect. Not to mention you *can* fit the volvo head onto the 2.3L block if you are determined and talented with a welder.
Help me build a Ford 2.3L SOHC
Moderator: Team
Re: Help me build a Ford 2.3L SOHC
LOL, according to the post count I'm an "expert." The only thing I'm an expert at is asking questions.
-
- Guru
- Posts: 1904
- Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 10:47 am
- Location: Dubois, Wy.
Re: Help me build a Ford 2.3L SOHC
On the oval port heads if you jump from the stock 1.74 intake valve to any of the over size valves the flow won't pick up unless you unshroud and lay back the chamber wall to the bore diameter.
Re: Help me build a Ford 2.3L SOHC
engineczar wrote:On the oval port heads if you jump from the stock 1.74 intake valve to any of the over size valves the flow won't pick up unless you unshroud and lay back the chamber wall to the bore diameter.
I assumed I'd need to do that even with the stock valves. Do the OS valves become too shrouded on a stock size bore?
LOL, according to the post count I'm an "expert." The only thing I'm an expert at is asking questions.
Re: Help me build a Ford 2.3L SOHC
I drive an hour and a half to my "local" yards...
what part of the world are you in, AP?
what part of the world are you in, AP?
-
- Guru
- Posts: 1547
- Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2011 8:55 am
- Location:
Re: Help me build a Ford 2.3L SOHC
Saab lpt low pressure turbo
It's a garett gt1752
Perfect to boost a 2.5l to 7 or 9 PSI
Quick spool.... real quick
Or
How about.....
A Mazda mellinea twin screw supercharger...
It's a garett gt1752
Perfect to boost a 2.5l to 7 or 9 PSI
Quick spool.... real quick
Or
How about.....
A Mazda mellinea twin screw supercharger...
Re: Help me build a Ford 2.3L SOHC
So what I'm hearing is to turbo it at a moderate boost level? Can the stock flat top cast pistons handle 10psi? I assume I'll also want to keep the stock valves and cam?
LOL, according to the post count I'm an "expert." The only thing I'm an expert at is asking questions.
Re: Help me build a Ford 2.3L SOHC
uh
you don't need 10 psi if you are fording streams
5 will give you 30% more than stock at any rpm you want to place your torque curve
getting 30% down low or low mid any other way is tough
you don't need 10 psi if you are fording streams
5 will give you 30% more than stock at any rpm you want to place your torque curve
getting 30% down low or low mid any other way is tough
-
- Guru
- Posts: 1547
- Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2011 8:55 am
- Location:
Re: Help me build a Ford 2.3L SOHC
the reason i posted about the gt1752 from a saab 9-3
it is specifically designed to be efficient at the flow/pressure you need 7-9 psi on a 2.5
the compressor efficiency map matches a warmed over 2.3 or 2.5 percectly
aside/in addition to that
the biggest difference you could possibly make is to go with the 2.5L
the torque difference off idle is MASSIVE on stock vs stock
also, i would just avoid the stock pistons....
race tec could probably make you a set for less than you would expect
it is specifically designed to be efficient at the flow/pressure you need 7-9 psi on a 2.5
the compressor efficiency map matches a warmed over 2.3 or 2.5 percectly
aside/in addition to that
the biggest difference you could possibly make is to go with the 2.5L
the torque difference off idle is MASSIVE on stock vs stock
also, i would just avoid the stock pistons....
race tec could probably make you a set for less than you would expect