New BBC Build Opinions

[TAG55]

New to this site just joined. Looking for opinions on my build if there is anything that sticks out that may look wrong. I just got my car done and running in late August so I won't be going to the track till spring. Just wondering what are some thoughts of Hp or how fast it might go in the 1/8 mile (hoping for 6.20's).. Car is a 55 Chevy, stock bench front seat and door panels, no heat, no radio, no backseat , weight is about 3400 to 3600 with me in it Car pulls like a freight train..

engine; 496 studded 289 block, little over 12.5 to 1 compression, Mahle 43cc pistons, scat crank and rods, ATI balancer, Canton pan with scraper and tray, Afr 315 heads, 1.7 Scorpion rockers, Victor 454r, E-85 1050 dominator done by HP Innovations, Crane solid roller .714/.714 lift 268/272 @.050, electric water pump, MSD ignition, hooker 2 1/8 headers 3" exhaust

trans; 400th manual valve body, 4500 Freakshow converter

rear end ; Strange S60 4.30 gear, 35 spline axles, spool, strange, chrome moly drive shaft w/1350 joints

wheels; weld draglites 4's and 10's with 295/65/15 MT Drag Radial Cal Tracs and leaf springs.

NA no power adders

[prairiehotrodder]

looks like a sweet combo. What the LSA on the cam? Should make 700 - 750 hp ? 6.20's is high nines i think. Seems heavy and needs more convertor for that is my guess but i could be wrong.

[TAG55]

108 LSA, Kinda of what I was thinking on the converter also, I can always send it back to get loosened up...

[Newold1]

At 110% VE, Pipe Max says this setup should make about 825hp @ 7000rpms and 750lb/ft of torque which should get you all the power you need.
I raced a 55 150 business mans coupe for a few years with a great small block. The biggest problem you will have is not so much power and torque, but out of the gate traction and weight transfer. This car in a pretty much stock trim is way front end heavy with about a 60/40 weight distribution. My suggestion is to spend time and money on suspension and weight reduction on the front end. Get the car closer or past a 50/50 weight distribution and probably a good 4 link setup in the rear. Get the battery in the trunk, etc., and lighten the front end. The stock frames on these old girls were not cross braced well and really torque twist up when you get the car to hook hard at the line. Back in my early days I spent a lot of time and trouble until some successful 55,56,57 Chevy racers educated me in the problems with this car type. As you probably know 1/8 mile cars need good 60 foot times and good hole shots to get to good ET's and that car will need help to make it a good 1/8 mile car. These old chevys are great old cars but they don't make the best 1/8 mile cars. You'll have a lot of fun but you will also learn a lot when doing.

[TAG55]

At 110% VE, Pipe Max says this setup should make about 825hp @ 7000rpms and 750lb/ft of torque which should get you all the power you need.
I raced a 55 150 business mans coupe for a few years with a great small block. The biggest problem you will have is not so much power and torque, but out of the gate traction and weight transfer. This car in a pretty much stock trim is way front end heavy with about a 60/40 weight distribution. My suggestion is to spend time and money on suspension and weight reduction on the front end. Get the car closer or past a 50/50 weight distribution and probably a good 4 link setup in the rear. Get the battery in the trunk, etc., and lighten the front end. The stock frames on these old girls were not cross braced well and really torque twist up when you get the car to hook hard at the line. Back in my early days I spent a lot of time and trouble until some successful 55,56,57 Chevy racers educated me in the problems with this car type. As you probably know 1/8 mile cars need good 60 foot times and good hole shots to get to good ET's and that car will need help to make it a good 1/8 mile car. These old chevys are great old cars but they don't make the best 1/8 mile cars. You'll have a lot of fun but you will also learn a lot when doing.

What did yours weigh ? After driving it around on the street I can see what your saying about weight transfer, I have new moroso front springs to install, and going to order Calverts mono leaf springs for the rear before even trying to go to the track.. Battery is in the truck, electric water pump,no front bumper, glass lift off hood, it also has tubular upper control arms, but I think I'm going to replace the uppers and lowers with Auto Fab chromemoly a- arms.. After driving it around this past Sunday I also know that I'm going to have to put a 8-point bar in it or maybe go ahead and cage it..

[Newold1]

When I started the coupe weighed 3800 lbs. When it was competitive and ran well it weighed 3300 lbs. Sounds like you have already removed some front weight and helped the front/rear balance. If this car is not your daily driver than I will make a suggestion. Sounds like you already have some good basic strong points being the rear axle and the engine. To really put together a quick reliable 55 car you need to as I always suggest start with a good thought out plan and then work your plan as budget and time allow. The torque and horsepower you are using in the car will overpower a leaf spring rear even with a Calverts mono (split leaf and even with Caltrac bars. You are also going to twist up that stock frame if you get the car to hook up properly. So you have to start on the bottom and work up. Put in a Heidts 4-link with adjustable rear coil overs and a proper pinon angle when loaded. When setting up the 4 link, use good cross frame struted structure to stiffen the frame and stop twist up. Use a good lightweight chrome moly transmission mount cross frame member to stiffen the middle of the frame.
Then look to safety needs with good disc brakes front and rear, good adjustable front a-arm suspension with adjustable coil overs, a good driveshaft loop, full roll bar system and a 5 point belt system and a completely redone fuel tank, pump and back to front fuel line system. Remember most tracks and associations have some pretty strict safety equipment requirements for good reasons. You won't be allowed to run without them! Study the average most strict rules and build them to start.
I know this sounds like a lot and you probably think you can live without it, but the truth is you will probably tear up the car and possibly yourself without it! Cars that perform great are usually complete ground up builds and if you are going to invest a great deal of money and time to get there then start right and finish right! Lot of guys want to go racing and get so pumped to just start that they just piece meal a car and usually end up with a frustrating, expensive, time consuming poor performing car! Not trying to rain on your excited parade, but plan a good build and get things right from the start.

here is a link to some good pictures of a nice 4 link install and frame and chassis work on a very nice 55!
http://www.TriFive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23875

Have fun-stay safe!

[Old as Dirt]

That's one Hell of a build on a very nice 55..

[jim_ss409]

I'm not 100% sure about this but I think going quicker than 6.40 in the 1/8th mile puts you in the same category as a car running quicker than ten flat in the 1/4 mile.
That will mean you'll need a full roll cage, competition licence, and a fair bit of other safety equipment.
I think you have enough power to hit 6.20's if you can get the car dialed in with the right tires, suspension and convertor etc. but it would be easier to aim for somewhere in the 6.40 plus range.
I've got a 55 Chevy that runs about 6.40 in the 1/8th or close to 10 flat in the 1/4 mile. Mine is a little lighter than yours at about 3,350 lbs. but I've got less power, probably about 675 hp.
I do have a good four link suspension and a set back engine so the car is fairly quick off the line.

As others have said, you'll need to get off the line quick in order to get good 1/8th mile times. If you can do that, I think 6.20's are possible.

[TAG55]

thanks for all the advice.. I do have a lot of the safety stuff, except no cage yet.. I do know that it does need one, but since it is still a weekend short trip kinda car I'm still not sure I'm going to do it.. I haven't raced in 15 years, the last 6 building this car.. Might just wait till I take it in the spring and see what it does or get kicked out for not having a cage before I do that.. I know what is going to happen though, I will go one time and thats all it will take and I'll be hooked again wanting to go every weekend.. The engine feels like the power is there but it's been so long in anything fast not sure of my own judgement.. Thats why I wanted opinions on this build.. thanks

[wyrmrider]

we ran a blown sbc with a 4 speed, glass front end helped, olds rear end we tried several rear end suspensions I can ask what worked best if you wish and I can find the chassis guy after 50 years
DONT BEND THE FRAME- ask me how I know you have much better tires to work with we used weak springs with big weights in the clutch to keep from breaking the T10

[TAG55]

This is the first Tri five I have messed with, looks like from what you guys are saying I would be miles ahead to just go ahead and cage it this winter. I had thought about sending the intake off to have some work done to it now I think that will wait, and concentrate on the chassis.. thanks, Gary

[steve316]

Race only or very little street; cage it. Unless you are going to ware a helmet all the time you drive it on the street a roll bar may work better for you. Also you can make a cage out of later if you go race only.

[Newold1]

Gary
Nice looking ride now on your 555. I think you are smart to make it safe and strengthen the chassis and drive train. Sounds like you've got some great power there. Now just concentrate on the safe chassis.
Best of luck
Stay Safe