Break-in oil
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Re: Break-in oil
I believe Torco MPz additive is a very high dose of phosphorus and moly. And that stuff seems to work well and reducing friction
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Re: Break-in oil
Moly disulfide is a compound of molybdenum and sulfur.
If we are talking moly faced rings, I believe that is more like metalic molybdenum powder, mechanically mixed with other stuff like ceramics etc, applied in a thermally sprayed process.
The early days moly rings were flame sprayed, and the poor bond strength meant a groove had to be machined in the ring face to better hold and retain the sprayed moly.
Plasma sprayed moly sticks way better, so no groove is necessary. Supposedly plasma sprayed molys, whether by chemistry or as a result of the plasma application process can have other properties that supposedly can benefit piston rings.
If we are talking moly faced rings, I believe that is more like metalic molybdenum powder, mechanically mixed with other stuff like ceramics etc, applied in a thermally sprayed process.
The early days moly rings were flame sprayed, and the poor bond strength meant a groove had to be machined in the ring face to better hold and retain the sprayed moly.
Plasma sprayed moly sticks way better, so no groove is necessary. Supposedly plasma sprayed molys, whether by chemistry or as a result of the plasma application process can have other properties that supposedly can benefit piston rings.
Re: Break-in oil
I don't use those oils so I don't need to study up on them. I only need to know about the stuff I use. I use the Moly Slip E and get good results. It does what It claims to do. Effectively.
Thats why I recommend it. Great for engines that have a flat tappet high perf cam. especially with aggressive high pressure valve springs for high rpm use. Especially in use in motors oils that are lacking in Moly and Zinc.
It does have Zinc in it too but the leading anti friction agent is the moly in it.
I'll leave to other people to say what they notice about how the motor runs after adding the Moly Slip to their oil. Before and after.. (Might be something at work there.)
Yup apparently the new formula Rotella T is not the same as the older stuff.
Thats actually why I started using the MolySlip E Oil Supplement.
Thats why I recommend it. Great for engines that have a flat tappet high perf cam. especially with aggressive high pressure valve springs for high rpm use. Especially in use in motors oils that are lacking in Moly and Zinc.
It does have Zinc in it too but the leading anti friction agent is the moly in it.
I'll leave to other people to say what they notice about how the motor runs after adding the Moly Slip to their oil. Before and after.. (Might be something at work there.)
Yup apparently the new formula Rotella T is not the same as the older stuff.
Thats actually why I started using the MolySlip E Oil Supplement.
Re: Break-in oil
it seems that Rotella conventional has meet Jaso standards as in having no friction modifiers since it's introduction...Aside from Harley , most or all bikes have plain bearings like cars, the engine ,clutch and transmission share the same oil...And because of this the oil needs to be Jaso without friction modifiers...Large sport bikes make near 200 HP at 10,000 rpm from 60-70 cubic inches right off the showroom floor....If a Jaso oil has no friction modifiers, I assume that would include moly...Why don't they wear out prematurely?F-BIRD'88 wrote:
Yup apparently the new formula Rotella T is not the same as the older stuff.
Thats actually why I started using the MolySlip E Oil Supplement.
Motorcycle land speed racing... wearing animal hides and clinging to vibrating oily machines propelled by fire
Re: Break-in oil
Don't confuse "friction modifiers" with moly disulfide or even Zinc phosphate.
You are talking about 2 different things.
The current Rotella T 15-w40 (which is still very good oil) does not have moly disulfide in it (as far as I know) and has little/less (no?) Zinc in it now where as before it did have a good dose of the Zinc in it.
Thats why I (now) add the Moly Slip E to it.
I primarily am after reduced wear and long service life of the flat tappet cam+ lifters and aggressive valve springs in my motor. I rev my 406 up higher than a street Harley does.
You are talking about 2 different things.
The current Rotella T 15-w40 (which is still very good oil) does not have moly disulfide in it (as far as I know) and has little/less (no?) Zinc in it now where as before it did have a good dose of the Zinc in it.
Thats why I (now) add the Moly Slip E to it.
I primarily am after reduced wear and long service life of the flat tappet cam+ lifters and aggressive valve springs in my motor. I rev my 406 up higher than a street Harley does.
Re: Break-in oil
The Current Rotella T has about 1200 ppm zinc I believe.....I discounted Harleys in my post above, they have roller lifters .The other bikes I mentioned have OHC typical designs and RPM are far in excess of any OHV V-8 engine.. Typical bike Jaso oils have 1200 ppm zinc...Mobil 1 Jaso 20/50 bike oil has 1600 ppm....F-BIRD'88 wrote:Don't confuse "friction modifiers" with moly disulfide or even Zinc phosphate.
You are talking about 2 different things.
The current Rotella T 15-w40 (which is still very good oil) does not have moly disulfide in it (as far as I know) and has little/less (no?) Zinc in it now where as before it did have a good dose of the Zinc in it.
Thats why I (now) add the Moly Slip E to it.
I primarily am after reduced wear and long service life of the flat tappet cam+ lifters and aggressive valve springs in my motor. I rev my 406 up higher than a street Harley does.
Motorcycle land speed racing... wearing animal hides and clinging to vibrating oily machines propelled by fire
Re: Break-in oil
Driven / Gibbs, yes. Brad Penn, no (or such a small amount as to be insignificant). Most Amsoil motor oils do not, and the few that do have far less than most of their competitors who do.F-BIRD'88 wrote:Both Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs both have moly in them... many of the Amsoil oils do too.
You need to do more VOA research on this and stop making generalized unsubstantiated claims, especially because moly is no silver bullet for motor oil lubrication.
Re: Break-in oil
I'm just a hobbyist, but for the past several years have used Driven BR30 break-in oil on flat tappet and roller engines. Zinc and phosphate are only two of the additives, and even with a roller cam they help mate stock SBC & BBC rocker arms to the rocker balls, valve stem tips, and pushrods.
And since I'm not a petroleum engineer or chemist, I don't assume ZDDP-Plus will combine well with the additive packages used in any and all regular oils. I have to think guys in refineries would laugh their a$$es off if you told them it's safe to add that stuff to any motor oil.
And since I'm not a petroleum engineer or chemist, I don't assume ZDDP-Plus will combine well with the additive packages used in any and all regular oils. I have to think guys in refineries would laugh their a$$es off if you told them it's safe to add that stuff to any motor oil.
Re: Break-in oil
This thread made me remember an additive that was all the rage some time ago called Pro-Blend. Of course they had all the eye catching videos with the one-armed bandit scar machine that you couldn't get to stop after adding it to the oil.. etc.. etc..
Did anyone ever actually use this stuff?
Did anyone ever actually use this stuff?
Re: Break-in oil
The problend gear oil treatment worked wonders in stuff that was on death row. i don't want to hijack the thread but I have a couple of stories if anyone is interested.
Heat is energy, energy is horsepower...but you gotta control the heat.
-Carl
-Carl
Re: Break-in oil
I think I recall seeing Smokey Yunick in their magazine ads. Same stuff?Zmechanic wrote:This thread made me remember an additive that was all the rage some time ago called Pro-Blend. Of course they had all the eye catching videos with the one-armed bandit scar machine that you couldn't get to stop after adding it to the oil.. etc.. etc..
Did anyone ever actually use this stuff?
Re: Break-in oil
I remember dumping a bottle of Wynn's something or other in an old 350 Chevy with a noisy lifter. The stuff actually made the lifter noticeably quieter! I later read that it was mostly solvent, but hey it was good enough to get the car sold!Zmechanic wrote:This thread made me remember an additive that was all the rage some time ago called Pro-Blend. Of course they had all the eye catching videos with the one-armed bandit scar machine that you couldn't get to stop after adding it to the oil.. etc.. etc..
Did anyone ever actually use this stuff?
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Re: Break-in oil
MikeB wrote:I remember dumping a bottle of Wynn's something or other in an old 350 Chevy with a noisy lifter. The stuff actually made the lifter noticeably quieter! I later read that it was mostly solvent, but hey it was good enough to get the car sold!Zmechanic wrote:This thread made me remember an additive that was all the rage some time ago called Pro-Blend. Of course they had all the eye catching videos with the one-armed bandit scar machine that you couldn't get to stop after adding it to the oil.. etc.. etc..
Did anyone ever actually use this stuff?
Yes it was a solvent and it did help sticky lifters, but you damn sure did not want to run it long.
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Re: Break-in oil
ive used lots of bottles of wynn's lifter treatment and also had great results. Have not seen it on the shelves in my area for years?
They also had a hydrocarbon / emissions reducer that worked very well.
They also had a hydrocarbon / emissions reducer that worked very well.