Elgin roller rocker?
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Elgin roller rocker?
Curious if anyone has used these? Elgin (also under the engine pro tag)Steel roller rockers
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Re: Elgin roller rocker?
If you are talking about the stamped steel roller tip rocker arm which still use the factory type ball & socket fulcrum for a Chevrolet or the factory pedestal sled fulcrums for Fords ... I use them all the time for the past 15 years.88bluestar wrote:Curious if anyone has used these? Elgin (also under the engine pro tag)Steel roller rockers
No problems after at least 100 sets.
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Re: Elgin roller rocker?
If you are talking about the full roller stainless steel rockers I have used about 8-9 sets on budget stuff and they seem to work fine with 300 lbs or less open pressures.
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Re: Elgin roller rocker?
I remember Pro Form, the description in catalogs, it would say, Good rocker for mild street engines. Needs good oil supply and low spring pressures to survive. Hmm, sounds great, I want those ones. They should have also added, No matter what your pushrod length is, it won't be right, the geometry is jacked no matter what you do, so, expect short valve and valve guide life, but great for those on a budget. Right back to that, it amazes me how many times guys with short budgets cheap out, and when it doesn't work, they ALWAYS have the money to do it again. How does that work?
I bought one set of those elgin stainless rockers, and sent them back. They used to be $140 or so, good quality ones, are about $100 more. In the grand scheme of things, is $100 a big deal? Same with Dyno testing, guy spends $15K on a new build and refuses to spend the $350, to dyno it. THen they come on numerous forums asking for help because it doesn't run right, and spend weeks, and sometimes numerous trips to the track to be frustrated because they can't get it to work. That $350 seems pretty cheap at that point. Anyhow, "cheap" is rarely good. If its a lot "cheaper" than the majority of the other choices for the same parts, its almost never worth using. My 2 cents, from being down that road many many times. I have been guilty of it myself, so I get it, buy a magnetic indicator base. The good one was $120. The cheap one was $29.95. I bought the cheap one. The 1st time I tried using it, I got so frustrated and pissed off, I literally threw it in the garbage, and ordered the good one. So, it actually cost me $200 with shipping. Valve train parts, are not good to cheap out on.
I bought one set of those elgin stainless rockers, and sent them back. They used to be $140 or so, good quality ones, are about $100 more. In the grand scheme of things, is $100 a big deal? Same with Dyno testing, guy spends $15K on a new build and refuses to spend the $350, to dyno it. THen they come on numerous forums asking for help because it doesn't run right, and spend weeks, and sometimes numerous trips to the track to be frustrated because they can't get it to work. That $350 seems pretty cheap at that point. Anyhow, "cheap" is rarely good. If its a lot "cheaper" than the majority of the other choices for the same parts, its almost never worth using. My 2 cents, from being down that road many many times. I have been guilty of it myself, so I get it, buy a magnetic indicator base. The good one was $120. The cheap one was $29.95. I bought the cheap one. The 1st time I tried using it, I got so frustrated and pissed off, I literally threw it in the garbage, and ordered the good one. So, it actually cost me $200 with shipping. Valve train parts, are not good to cheap out on.