SBC Afr Heads

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wilson1970
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SBC Afr Heads

Post by wilson1970 » Sat Oct 14, 2017 12:26 pm

Looking at the AFR 195 Eliminator heads for my 355. Selling my Sportsman 11's iron heads!! They sell 2 different versions. The street version 280@.550 or the competition version .300@.550. For the street will I sse the difference also is it worth spending an additional $4-500 for the competition version?

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Re: SBC Afr Heads

Post by bigjoe1 » Sat Oct 14, 2017 12:28 pm

DO NOT WASTE your money




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RevTheory
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Re: SBC Afr Heads

Post by RevTheory » Sat Oct 14, 2017 12:29 pm

I might could see it if you were looking to stretch out a 383 but I can't see shelling out the extra cash on a 355. But that's just me...

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Re: SBC Afr Heads

Post by wilson1970 » Sat Oct 14, 2017 12:38 pm

Ok I will follow up with this question. AFR 195 over the Sportsman 11? They have had some minor cleanup in the bowls and chambers.

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Re: SBC Afr Heads

Post by GARY C » Sat Oct 14, 2017 12:45 pm

wilson1970 wrote:
Sat Oct 14, 2017 12:38 pm
Ok I will follow up with this question. AFR 195 over the Sportsman 11? They have had some minor cleanup in the bowls and chambers.
That's hard to say but luckily for us your fixing to have that answer. :)
I would lean toward the AFR as is fully ported and it's done with decade newer technology (in theory).

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Re: SBC Afr Heads

Post by cuisinartvette » Sat Oct 14, 2017 12:56 pm

Been down that road, AFR hands down.
In fact getting rid of a nicely ported set of Darts to get a set of Tonys tuned up 215s. Seen the difference too many times
Last edited by cuisinartvette on Sat Oct 14, 2017 1:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: SBC Afr Heads

Post by bigjoe1 » Sat Oct 14, 2017 12:57 pm

NO CONTEST--Not even close



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Re: SBC Afr Heads

Post by wilson1970 » Sat Oct 14, 2017 1:58 pm

I know this is a tough question with many variables. What would be the power difference between the two heads? 10.5 comp. 355 CU. .596-.238-.242@.050 hydraulic Roller with RPM Air Gap. 750 HP.

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Re: SBC Afr Heads

Post by Kbails » Sat Oct 14, 2017 9:11 pm

10-20 hp between the street and comp depending on how high you spin the engine. if you are not chasing a certain et or really racing the car my recommendation would be to leave it alone. if there are no problems with the current heads I would leave it be and enjoy it. but this is just my opinion
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Re: SBC Afr Heads

Post by wilson1970 » Sun Oct 15, 2017 5:21 am

What would the difference be between the Sportsman 11 and the Afr heads?

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Re: SBC Afr Heads

Post by kimosabi » Sun Oct 15, 2017 8:22 am

wilson1970 wrote:
Sun Oct 15, 2017 5:21 am
What would the difference be between the Sportsman 11 and the Afr heads?
Port design. What makes AFR heads good is not just the quality but the port design. As far as I know, AFR is still using Tony Mamo's cnc programs. Hell I don't know if Mamo made such a huge difference since my pre eliminator 210 RR heads are really good too and they were made in '05 or something.

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Re: SBC Afr Heads

Post by Steve K » Sun Oct 15, 2017 8:32 am

I have a 406 sbc that I did the same upgrade on. Had unported Sportsman II heads and a 230-242 ish hydraulic roller. I went with the competition ported 195 AFR's and and bigger Lunati Voodoo 60113 cam. Went from 475 hp and 500 tq to 540 hp and 525 tq. This was with a Vic Jr. intake (currently running a tunnel ram). Definitely worth upgrading but I'd also recommend a cam upgrade to take advantage of the air if you're running a mild cam.
65 Beaumont, 406 sbc, Tunnel Ram Dual Quad with Eddy carbs, AFR 195 Competition Eliminator heads, VooDoo 60113 hyd roller, 4.10's and a faceplated Tremec TKO 600.

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Re: SBC Afr Heads

Post by Carnut1 » Sun Oct 15, 2017 8:43 am

Make horsepower or buy horsepower? Expect to have a pro go through those brand new AFR's and check guides, valve seat concentricity and spring load. Just needs to be done. I would buy a cheap electric grinder, speed control and a sharp burr do some metal removal with guidance and then get the iron heads guides, vj, and flat mill, upgrade springs maybe ti retainers and custom cam. Sportsman 2's can make some power. Still way cheaper than new AFR 's. Thanks, Charlie
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Re: SBC Afr Heads

Post by Steve K » Sun Oct 15, 2017 9:33 am

Carnut1 wrote:
Sun Oct 15, 2017 8:43 am
Make horsepower or buy horsepower? Expect to have a pro go through those brand new AFR's and check guides, valve seat concentricity and spring load. Just needs to be done. I would buy a cheap electric grinder, speed control and a sharp burr do some metal removal with guidance and then get the iron heads guides, vj, and flat mill, upgrade springs maybe ti retainers and custom cam. Sportsman 2's can make some power. Still way cheaper than new AFR 's. Thanks, Charlie
You're right on this. I ported those Sportsman II's and put them on a 383 with the same cam and made 465 hp on the dyno with the same cam. Other than the weight penalty they can be made to work
65 Beaumont, 406 sbc, Tunnel Ram Dual Quad with Eddy carbs, AFR 195 Competition Eliminator heads, VooDoo 60113 hyd roller, 4.10's and a faceplated Tremec TKO 600.

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Re: SBC Afr Heads

Post by GARY C » Sun Oct 15, 2017 3:08 pm

Carnut1 wrote:
Sun Oct 15, 2017 8:43 am
Make horsepower or buy horsepower? Expect to have a pro go through those brand new AFR's and check guides, valve seat concentricity and spring load. Just needs to be done. I would buy a cheap electric grinder, speed control and a sharp burr do some metal removal with guidance and then get the iron heads guides, vj, and flat mill, upgrade springs maybe ti retainers and custom cam. Sportsman 2's can make some power. Still way cheaper than new AFR 's. Thanks, Charlie
This thought seems to be reaching the point of urban legend. I am sure that most OTB heads don't have what some think they should have but when you consider the 10's of thousands of OTB heads with thousands upon thousands of miles on them or even worse the millions of mass produced vehicles over with over 300,000 miles on them without an issue you have to wonder would AFR really risk having to replace thousands of heads over something as simple as honing guides?
What do you think happens to the valve seats after a virgin head has been tq-ed and run through a heat cycle?
If you are truly concerned about that then you should run the engine in and do 30 or so dyno pulls and then check all that, other wise you are changing something that is going to change again before it needs to be changed.
Or maybe the pro engine builders just do that for peace of mind.

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