Geoff2 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 12, 2017 4:16 am
ARP need stop trying to make their products a 'one size fits all' deal. Myself & a few other people wasted a ton of time [ plus a few skinned knuckles...] trying to figure out my the gears were crunching, trying to select gears on a manual trans Pontiac V8. Engine was rebuilt & new ARP f/wheel bolts were used. Factory f/wheel. It turns out the thicker than stock head on the ARP bolt, along with the supplied washer, stuck out too far & fouled the cushion springs on the clutch plate.
Obviously one size doesn't fit all! Lol
And thus has what to do with the thread topic?
Keith Morganstein wrote: ↑Mon Dec 11, 2017 8:12 pm
From previous posts, the OP has an all aftermarket, Dart block 400 making 1200HP with a YSI supercharger.
Sorry Keith my read of the OP's previous posts don't say anything about a Dart block or 1200HP! Guess Speedtalk is keeping me in the dark or something?
I still don't read a solution for the OP and yet some here think the issue is solved?
Jeff Lee wrote: ↑Mon Dec 11, 2017 1:36 am
All of the above with emphasis on making sure you are not bottoming out the dampener bolt and using the proper thick washer. I’ve seen that before, especially those using aftermarket cranks.
And the last “professional shop” I used honed the ATI balancer to a nice and loose .0125” clearance to make it easy on them to R&R the balancer. Then you get real ugly bearing texture...
I suggest only using a balancer R&R tool which has the large plate.
Any picture of this ugly bearing texture? Would it be similar to no damper at all? I have a buddy that does 2 barrel sprints and they just run a hub, some of the main bearings come out looking funky after very short run time.
someone already posted to 'mark' the installed bolt and hub so you can see if the bolt has rotated any at all. It is quite common on air craft to 'paint' a spot so to have an obvious indicator if any fastener has turned.
One other step. Mic the bolt length and write it down. When/if you do find the bolt lose, remove it and mic it again to see if there is any measurable stretch occurred.
I agree with the 'too tight of fit' theory, however, if the damper IS vibrating and further seating, you would think once you re-tightened the bolt it would then stay tight. Unless you keep pulling the damper each time to look at it. In which case the clearance should be wiping itself and beginning to create clearance.
Keith Morganstein wrote: ↑Mon Dec 11, 2017 8:12 pm
From previous posts, the OP has an all aftermarket, Dart block 400 making 1200HP with a YSI supercharger.
Sorry Keith my read of the OP's previous posts don't say anything about a Dart block or 1200HP! Guess Speedtalk is keeping me in the dark or something?
I still don't read a solution for the OP and yet some here think the issue is solved?
Please enlighten me.
The OP’s been posting about this build for a few years. (Different topics) I wasn’t trying to answer your reply in particular. Just mentioning what he’s working with.
Automotive Machining, cylinder head rebuilding, engine building. Can't seem to quit
Timing gear might be binding in radius of crank snout and lapping itself in. That would cause bolt to loosen. You're not clamping the aluminum blower pulley or crank trigger ring along with damper are you?
BILL-C wrote: ↑Tue Dec 12, 2017 5:34 pm
Timing gear might be binding in radius of crank snout and lapping itself in. That would cause bolt to loosen. You're not clamping the aluminum blower pulley or crank trigger ring along with damper are you?
Geoff2 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 12, 2017 4:16 am
ARP need stop trying to make their products a 'one size fits all' deal. Myself & a few other people wasted a ton of time [ plus a few skinned knuckles...] trying to figure out my the gears were crunching, trying to select gears on a manual trans Pontiac V8. Engine was rebuilt & new ARP f/wheel bolts were used. Factory f/wheel. It turns out the thicker than stock head on the ARP bolt, along with the supplied washer, stuck out too far & fouled the cushion springs on the clutch plate.
sounds like you had the disc I backwards! and actually, the thread is about balancer bolt!
BILL-C wrote: ↑Tue Dec 12, 2017 5:34 pm
Timing gear might be binding in radius of crank snout and lapping itself in. That would cause bolt to loosen. You're not clamping the aluminum blower pulley or crank trigger ring along with damper are you?
NO,Just the balancer.....Thank you.....Oldhead
I think what's happening is that the snout of the crank flexes under the load, the damper then works on the front of the timing gear and wears/moves in and the bolt gets loose. Are you using a 9 key bottom timing gear?
If this engine is a 1200 HP blower engine as indicated by Keith then I would always recommend that the crankshaft snout be a big block size on the aftermarket crankshaft and have a two key way setup and the balancer (damper) cut for double keys. The big block snout would have automatically come with a 1/2" bolt size thread and would be already set up for the added strength needed. Larger diameter of the big block size snout and the double keyways give a lot of extra interference area and help stop the twist and movements in the balancer (damper) as the blower drive, it's torque and harmonics can really put too much strain on a stock small block size snout and single key way setup.
BHJ makes a real nice hybrid damper that has stock sbc snout id, but BB chevy od. This helps to stiffen up the whimpy stock snout. It has double keyways. CV products sells a matching timing cover that uses a bbc seal. I try to use this damper whever i build a sbc with supercharger when stuck using sbc snout crank.
BILL-C wrote: ↑Tue Dec 12, 2017 5:34 pm
Timing gear might be binding in radius of crank snout and lapping itself in. That would cause bolt to loosen. You're not clamping the aluminum blower pulley or crank trigger ring along with damper are you?
NO,Just the balancer.....Thank you.....Oldhead
I think what's happening is that the snout of the crank flexes under the load, the damper then works on the front of the timing gear and wears/moves in and the bolt gets loose. Are you using a 9 key bottom timing gear?
Newold1 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 13, 2017 7:01 pm
If this engine is a 1200 HP blower engine as indicated by Keith then I would always recommend that the crankshaft snout be a big block size on the aftermarket crankshaft and have a two key way setup and the balancer (damper) cut for double keys. The big block snout would have automatically come with a 1/2" bolt size thread and would be already set up for the added strength needed. Larger diameter of the big block size snout and the double keyways give a lot of extra interference area and help stop the twist and movements in the balancer (damper) as the blower drive, it's torque and harmonics can really put too much strain on a stock small block size snout and single key way setup.
