Krooser wrote: ↑Tue Jan 02, 2018 11:45 pm
I just read the Citgo/Mystic oil MSDS sheet online and it clearly states that their non detergent oil contains "zinc and zinc compounds" ... this is the oil I will use along with the old EOS.
How much is "contains zinc and zinc compounds?" I know you are using it as a base for an adding EOS...But that's a very vague statement.... Nothing comes from these oil discussions other than opinions of what works for each tuner...
Motorcycle land speed racing... wearing animal hides and clinging to vibrating oily machines propelled by fire
Krooser wrote: ↑Tue Jan 02, 2018 11:45 pm
I just read the Citgo/Mystic oil MSDS sheet online and it clearly states that their non detergent oil contains "zinc and zinc compounds" ... this is the oil I will use along with the old EOS.
How much is "contains zinc and zinc compounds?" I know you are using it as a base for an adding EOS...But that's a very vague statement.... Nothing comes from these oil discussions other than opinions of what works for each tuner...
I'm going to find out... I'm going to get a couple oil sample bottles from a local oil wholesaler that did all my oil sample testing back when I owned my own big trucks. I'll send in two or three different oils and see what the results are... don't hold your breath as they are plenty slow sending out the vials...
Honored to be a member of the Luxemburg Speedway Hall of Fame Class of 2019
induction apprentice wrote: ↑Tue Jan 02, 2018 4:47 am
I have always been a believer in Amsoil dominator series oils. I am about to use their break-in oil for the first time.
I also use Amsoil, just never their break-in oil. Does anyone have any actual experience with Amsoil break-in?
I have never (knock on wood) had a ft failure. But then again I'm not a back yard mechanic. I have had hydraulic roller failures, and they were all the same large name cam company.
I check all the lifter clearances,make sure they rotate etc. I don't use any special oils. Just cheap citgo dinosaur oil. Usually 5w30. After break in I change the oil, or finish the dyno session. If you have a crap cam core or a soft cam there isn't any snake oil that will make it last. But then again make sure you have the right faced lifter for the cam.
I had a cam grinder tell me to use spray on graphite for cam break in. Said to put it in dry. It worked.. but then again who knows of it would have worked a different way.
Bottom line is if you feel comfortable spending money on the oil or additive, do it! What is$50 in oil compared toseveral thousands on a rebuild. Stick with what works for you. And if it's not working ask questions.
MTENGINES wrote: ↑Fri Jan 05, 2018 5:04 pm
I have never (knock on wood) had a ft failure. But then again I'm not a back yard mechanic. I have had hydraulic roller failures, and they were all the same large name cam company.
I check all the lifter clearances,make sure they rotate etc. I don't use any special oils. Just cheap citgo dinosaur oil. Usually 5w30. After break in I change the oil, or finish the dyno session. If you have a crap cam core or a soft cam there isn't any snake oil that will make it last. But then again make sure you have the right faced lifter for the cam.
I had a cam grinder tell me to use spray on graphite for cam break in. Said to put it in dry. It worked.. but then again who knows of it would have worked a different way.
Bottom line is if you feel comfortable spending money on the oil or additive, do it! What is$50 in oil compared toseveral thousands on a rebuild. Stick with what works for you. And if it's not working ask questions.
PhotoPictureResizer_180106_102132386-768x1024.jpg
This stuff does wonders when you 'just know' that customer who says 'yeah i know how to prime oil and setup my dizzy and carb' ends up cranking their FT engine all saturday afternoon trying to start it !!
And yes, agreed, if your process works just stick to it.
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