Break-in and Conventional Street Oils

[SRS_Chris]

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/05 ... fferences/

I used to recommend Rotella for a cheap alternative to higher priced break-in oils (I have good results with Driven's BR series oil when breaking in new engines, but not everyone wants to pay the price) and also as a conventional oil to use on the street. Looks like the new CK-4 rating has screwed that up. What do you use for a break-in oil? What do you use for a conventional street (longer change intervals) oil?

[statsystems]

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/05 ... fferences/

I used to recommend Rotella for a cheap alternative to higher priced break-in oils (I have good results with Driven's BR series oil when breaking in new engines, but not everyone wants to pay the price) and also as a conventional oil to use on the street. Looks like the new CK-4 rating has screwed that up. What do you use for a break-in oil? What do you use for a conventional street (longer change intervals) oil?

That's a pretty good article.

I use a break in oil. I only use Torco. And I only use Torco after beak in.

[DaveMcLain]

John Martin the guy who wrote that article is a friend of my dad from back when they worked together at Shell Oil. He's a good guy with lots of interesting information about that sort of stuff. He usually stops by our shop a couple of times a year. Next time I'll ask him what sort of break in oil he recommends if any for a roller cam equipped engine.

[Krooser]

Well I'm going to break in my redone dirt track motor with some 20w non detergent with a pint of old school GM EOS additive... seems to still be ok with at least one major cam outfit.

[swampbuggy]

Bigjoe what do you recommend for oil in a thin ringed ,roller cammed race engine during the run in period ? Thanks Mark H.

[statsystems]

Well I'm going to break in my redone dirt track motor with some 20w non detergent with a pint of old school GM EOS additive... seems to still be ok with at least one major cam outfit.

Buy a better oil. Why skimp?

[modok]

Valvoline VR1 is no more expensive than the other oils on the shelf at the local stores.

Sometimes they keep it behind the counter or have to order it, but I think you can find it locally if you look.

I don't know that it would be ideal for a roller engine, but probably would be a far better choice for break-in generally.

[BigBlocksOnTop2]

Brad-Penn Break-in oil. Great results with it. It's the ''old'' Kendall Motor Oil. Comes from the oldest oil refinery in the US....Bradford Co. Pennsylvania.

[SRS_Chris]

Valvoline VR1 is no more expensive than the other oils on the shelf at the local stores.

Sometimes they keep it behind the counter or have to order it, but I think you can find it locally if you look.

I don't know that it would be ideal for a roller engine, but probably would be a far better choice for break-in generally.

VR1 is my choice for a conventional race oil that gets changed frequently. I stock it in my shop. As I understand it though, like most "race" oils, it lacks the detergents to suspend particulates during longer drain intervals (street driving). I have customers that run it on the street, but they change their oil frequently.

[SRS_Chris]

I came across this on another forum. Looks like I was wrong about VR1 on the street. Problem solved!

We are not able to join the forums, but we can give you the answer you need, or maybe would like to add to the forum. Our VR1 Racing Oil is NOT just an "ordinary new car street oil" as listed. Our Valvoline VR1 Racing Oils can be used in street applications, but still contains the high amount of ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorus). This information can be found on our Valvoline.com website, under the section where it lists the Racing Oils. We have also added the product information sheet for both the VR1 and the "Not Street Legal" Racing oils. As you will see, Valvoline still contains 1200 ppm Zinc content in our regular conventional VR1. It does carry the API Service "SM" rating, but this oil was not made to change for emission standards due to it not being a "ordinary street car oil." This information clearly states the amount of both the Zinc and Phosphorus levels in the oils. The main difference between the the "Not Street Legal" racing oil, or commonly known as Conventional and Synthetic Racing oils, and the VR1 is the Calcium content. Calcium levels are higher in the NSL oils, compared to the VR1, and the NSL oil is only recommended for 500 mile oil changes, while the VR1 is a 3 month/3,000 mile oil.
Valvoline stands behind the flat-tappet and more aggressive type cam applications 100% with our Valvoline VR1 and NSL Racing oils. The proof is in our product information sheets, which are online for the viewing as well.

Here are the product information sheets with test results for all of VR1, Not Street Legal conventional, and Not Street Legal Synthetic.


Thank you,


Valvoline

[SRS_Chris]

viewtopic.php?t=10947

Another link I found for those interested.

[DaveMcLain]

As soon as the weather warms up I'm planning on doing break in and some dyno pulls on a fresh new 410 inch Cleveland with a hydraulic roller cam. I have 8 quarts of regular Valvoline 10W-30 in the oil pan and I fear not the break in process.

[gmrocket]

If your really concerned use Lucas break in oil it has 3600 ppm zinc.

I usually use Lucas hotrod &classic oil for flat tappet break in and continued use..it's 2100 ppm

[Keith Morganstein]

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/05 ... fferences/

I used to recommend Rotella for a cheap alternative to higher priced break-in oils (I have good results with Driven's BR series oil when breaking in new engines, but not everyone wants to pay the price) and also as a conventional oil to use on the street. Looks like the new CK-4 rating has screwed that up. What do you use for a break-in oil? What do you use for a conventional street (longer change intervals) oil?

I did that in the past, old formula diesel oil, and additive, but my luck ran out. (and the diesel oil isn’t what it used to be)

You can buy a 12 pack of BR for $100. Very cheap compared to what you have to after a cam failure.

These days, I don’t want to use any flat tappet cams unless required by rules (or a roller isn’t made for it).

[pdq67]

Well I'm going to break in my redone dirt track motor with some 20w DETERGENT with a pint of old school GM EOS additive... seems to still be ok with at least one major cam outfit.

This will do nicely, imho! Just probably change it out after say 500 miles or so just to clean out the, "MOLY", cam lobes and valve train tips/lifter feet lube!

Done it for years fine! The main thing that I have found is to NOT beat on your engine cold as well as before you reach like say, 1200 miles on it!

And I have ran Walmarts cheap, "Tech2000", oil and filters past 12,000 miles daily commuting at least 60 to 70 miles round trip a day on the 4-lane! Probably was at the min. 90 to 95 percent Hwy miles so sludge didn't build up at ALL!

pdq67