Was reading up about how little people try to get away with leaving for cylinder thickness and from what I saw the after market had not been discussed much. I would imagine given hp and rpm was the same you could take an aftermarket block to a thinner cylinder just due to the metallurgy and better casting(but I've been wrong before,just ask my wife). Just wanted everyone's thoughts on these as well as a few other questions regarding it.
1. How much worse is a taller deck vs a short deck (351w vs 302 for example) for bore deformation so we limit thicknesses?
2.I'm sure hp (and resulting cylinder pressure) has a good impact on this, anyone care to share what they have found?
3. How much is really helped with filling the block to within a few inches of the deck?
Aftermarket block cylinder thickness limits and bore deformation
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Re: Aftermarket block cylinder thickness limits and bore deformation
You need about .250 min on the major thrust side if it is to live a long life at higher power levels.
But filling a block effectively makes the bore act like it is in a solid or billet block.No deflection of the bore in the thinner areas.
While it works fine in race engines where bore rigidity and strength is paramount cooling can be an issue in a street car as you only have minimal water area to carry away heat and the oil temp will need to be addressed as well in a filled iron block.
If you use an older 60's block compared to a later block there is not that must difference in thickness unless you have the 302 block with the siamesed bores from the 5.0 mustang which is about the same as the Ford motorsport block for strength.
The 351W block is taller so the flexable area will be increased slightly but I would use a 351 as the more inches the better theory can be applied here when doing a 347 verses a 391. Cost is with in a few bucks.
But filling a block effectively makes the bore act like it is in a solid or billet block.No deflection of the bore in the thinner areas.
While it works fine in race engines where bore rigidity and strength is paramount cooling can be an issue in a street car as you only have minimal water area to carry away heat and the oil temp will need to be addressed as well in a filled iron block.
If you use an older 60's block compared to a later block there is not that must difference in thickness unless you have the 302 block with the siamesed bores from the 5.0 mustang which is about the same as the Ford motorsport block for strength.
The 351W block is taller so the flexable area will be increased slightly but I would use a 351 as the more inches the better theory can be applied here when doing a 347 verses a 391. Cost is with in a few bucks.
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