Cleveland sleeve

[ozyfordman]

High, I am after some advice from the Cleveland experts on this forum. I have an early block, 1971 bored +.030. This motor has been in storage for many years. I recently pulled it down for a rebuild and it had bad corrosion in one bore. The other bores are ok. I have gone with a black block and a rebore for the build but would like to save this damaged block if I could. Sleeves are available in .063' and .094" thickness from Summit. I was leaning towards the thinner sleeve to try and avoid hitting water. Does anyone have a preference when sleeving these notoriously thin blocks. I worked in an engine shop nearly 40 years ago but can`t remember sleeving a cleveland.They were easy to find back then, we just found a better one and started over. From memory the A series Repco sleeves we used back then were 125" thick but my memory could be off.
I haven`t sonic checked the block yet but do have a tester. Just need to radius the probe for internal measurements. Any advice from those who work with this stuff would be appreciated.

[jed]

Use the .063 and everything will be fine.

[ozyfordman]

Thanks Jed, Ill order it today.

[russxr67]

Typically ,we'd use a 4004B sleeve.

[ozyfordman]

Thanks for the response. I have already ordered the.063 wall thickness sleeve. Hope it works out. Do you guys set the sleeve on a step or rely on crush to hold it secure?

[KnightEngines]

Always on a step!

4004B is what I use too, commonly called a B sleeve.

Grout the block while you're at it, clevo bores need all the help they can get!

[Cubic_Cleveland]

Always on a step!

4004B is what I use too, commonly called a B sleeve.

Grout the block while you're at it, clevo bores need all the help they can get!

X2

I use the crush to hold water pressure, you nearly always hit a pin hole these days on a clevo

[ozyfordman]

Back in the day we used to mix up a paste with litharge(white lead powder) and gliserine if we hit water for a sealer. It was applied around the break through area pretty liberally.What is the current practice? I doubt that stuff is available now.Any product recommendations? I have to give a plug for Repco back then. They made everything parts and machine wise for the engine scene. It was a good place to learn the trade.

[KnightEngines]

I use blue Loctite whether I break through or not - never had a leak & never had a sleeve move.

[ozyfordman]

Thanks, blue loctite and a step it is. Thanks for the contributions.
Evan

[cjperformance]

B sleeve and WB iron tight (formerly repco irontite) and a very well cleaned sleeve OD and bore ID, no leaks or movement even when most of one bore wall is missing.
Make sure its stepped into the vase of the bore, make sure the finish angle the cutter leaves in the step is duplicated on the bottom of the sleeve and the OD of the sleeve base has a light chamfer so that you are not getting point contact anywhere.
Look at how the factory finish the bottom of the bore as far as total useable bore length is concerned. Get the sleeve as low as you can to keep as much bore length as you can and of course keeping a good step thickness as well.

[cjperformance]

P.s. nothing wrong with blue loctite either, i just know irontite is great too.

[KnightEngines]

Craig - where you getting irontite from now?, outbound auto just down the street from me used to stock it, but now they are a repco & don't, can't find it anywhere. That stuff is magic for sealing up porosity/pinholes etc.

PS - Mondo's 355 now has 3x sleeves in it, all of which have large holes behind them!, I grouted it after fitting the last sleeve, it's gone 10.2 @ 131mph in his VK since then & hasn't missed a beat.

[ozyfordman]

I have never had to grout a block before. I have watched some videos on YOUTUBE. What products do you recommend and how high up the bores can you fill before compromising cooloing efficiency. When we bored the black block on the weekend, there were a couple of bores that had inclusions in the casting about half way down the bore. I will sonic test these areas and hopefully cover them with grout. Ring seal shouldn`t be a problem down there as cylinder pressure should be very low. So long as they don`t leak. Maybe Irontite if I can get it, or possibly need a sleeve in this block as well. I`ll have to get that sonic probe radiused for internal measurements.

[cjperformance]

Craig - where you getting irontite from now?, outbound auto just down the street from me used to stock it, but now they are a repco & don't, can't find it anywhere. That stuff is magic for sealing up porosity/pinholes etc.

PS - Mondo's 355 now has 3x sleeves in it, all of which have large holes behind them!, I grouted it after fitting the last sleeve, it's gone 10.2 @ 131mph in his VK since then & hasn't missed a beat.

Tony , i get Irontite thru Burson Auto Parts , its a stock item so they usually have it on the shelf.
Repco do have it in the adelaide warehouse but not always in stock at least at my local store.
Yes nothing wrong with a properly fitted sleeve. I have seen a couple over time that have been A sleeves and non stepped - Ford australia used to do that on factory reman engines too - if the sleeve loosens and the top ring catches it things get interesting!!