First WTF, and the longer rollers too.kirkwoodken wrote: ↑Fri Aug 31, 2018 2:41 pmThose little needle bearings are spinning like crazy and creating heat. They need all the oil they can get in high RPM engines. I would advise at least 1200 RPM idle speed to keep a good oil flow going to the rollers. Because roller lifters do not spin like non rollers, their lack of rotation does not promote making an oil wedge around the lifter. You need to take this into consideration when building a roller engine. The oil clearance between the lifter and block is more critical than with FT lifters. There is a reason the newer roller engines have longer rollers and deeper holes for them to ride in. (I think ALL aftermarket lifters should be made .003"-.005" oversize so lifter holes MUST be honed to proper clearances.)F-BIRD'88 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 25, 2018 12:59 am Your Lunati roller cam calls for a .030" hot lash setting. Set it TIGHTER than this for extended life and street life. Try setting it cold at .018.020" COLD and then check to when hot. Look for around .022 .024 ish HOT.
loose valve lash is hard on ANY roller lifter.
I do not understand the mindset that a street engine needs to turn 7000 RPM. You can get great performance, torque band, etc. with a well designed cam turning 6000-6500 RPM. The cam in my 406 SBC signs off at about 6400, but makes gobs of street usable power. (Harold Brookshire's favorite Pro Street grind. His all purpose lobes from his UltraDyne days.)
Second NO we do not need people honing their lifter bores out .005 and ruining their blocks,
Third maybe what you don't understand about street cars is there is absolutely no need for 800lb ft of torque when there isn't a street tire that will handle it. I favor more rpm, specifically to loose some of the down low power. Why because for one it makes more horsepower, two it is more controllable to drive and three because it only make a sense.
