Ive heard about low hp stockers having success putting in a bunch of timing below and up to converter stall. Atleast to the 60ft mark, in our case with small tires and some horsepower we dont really want to increase starting line torque much and after the leave the car never sees less than 6600 or so, the only place #s at 3-6400rpm would matter would be the initial converter hit in my opinion
RW TECH wrote: ↑Wed Sep 12, 2018 11:50 am
With all you're describing at 3160 lbs, I'd be pretty upset if it didn't run at least 5.9x / 9.3x ET.
If your heads & block are flat & surface finish is correct, you should not have to put sealer on MLS head gaskets. Regardless, sealer will not stop combustion gas leaks and that is what you experienced.
Chances are, your head torquing procedure involved a 2 or 3-step process with incrementally higher torque values in each step. That's not a great method. Instead, do the 3-step process then leave it sit for a couple of hours. Then, go back and loosen/tighten each fastener (in sequence) to final targeted torque values. You'll probably see 10° or more of additional fastener rotation by doing it this way.
Thats interesting your correct its a sequence and 3 step process and we normally wait a awhile after the last time and go back over them but we dont normally break them loose and start over.
Frankshaft wrote: ↑Wed Sep 12, 2018 4:56 pm
You must be one of the guys we put on the trailer and send home early all the time. Lol.
Not sure who "we" is but either way that didn't happen.
For everybody else, if you take a look at your race pack data you will see that your car is actually starting to move at an engine RPM that is lower than converter stall, and since the converter actually multiplies torque he would like to have as much engine torque as possible coming up to stall RPM without compromising average power in the RPM range at and above stall speed.
RW TECH wrote: ↑Wed Sep 12, 2018 11:50 am
With all you're describing at 3160 lbs, I'd be pretty upset if it didn't run at least 5.9x / 9.3x ET.
If your heads & block are flat & surface finish is correct, you should not have to put sealer on MLS head gaskets. Regardless, sealer will not stop combustion gas leaks and that is what you experienced.
Chances are, your head torquing procedure involved a 2 or 3-step process with incrementally higher torque values in each step. That's not a great method. Instead, do the 3-step process then leave it sit for a couple of hours. Then, go back and loosen/tighten each fastener (in sequence) to final targeted torque values. You'll probably see 10° or more of additional fastener rotation by doing it this way.
Thats interesting your correct its a sequence and 3 step process and we normally wait a awhile after the last time and go back over them but we dont normally break them loose and start over.
Going back over them one more time is kind of okay compared to not doing it at all but you wind up really needing to set your torque wrench at a value greater than your actual target in order to get the rotation that you are really wanting.
As an example, if you have a fastener that is specified to be torqued at 75 foot pounds and you do the three step, you will probably want to set your wrench yet 80 foot pounds or a couple more than that.
Frankshaft wrote: ↑Wed Sep 12, 2018 4:56 pm
You must be one of the guys we put on the trailer and send home early all the time. Lol.
Not sure who "we" is but either way that didn't happen.
For everybody else, if you take a look at your race pack data you will see that your car is actually starting to move at an engine RPM that is lower than converter stall, and since the converter actually multiplies torque he would like to have as much engine torque as possible coming up to stall RPM without compromising average power in the RPM range at and above stall speed.
Right, because you don't actually race.
From racepack data, the engine is at the RPM you refer to above for such a tiny amount of time, it is meaningless. And because the converter multiplies tq, and small gain below that point is also meaningless. You set the break, mash the gas, let go of the button and it flashes to the converters stall so quickly, you can't hardly see it on the racepack. Then the engine is at 7500 faster than a lot of guys can even react, most fast guys have an air shifter to hit the appropriate shift points. Speaking of the shift, it will fall back to no lower than the actual stall speed, and if you actually have the proper gear and converter in the car, above that RPM anyhow. Again, making anything below that point meaningless. At least if your trying to maximize acceleration. It's simple logic.
What size head studs are using 7/16 or 1/2 inch? Did you drill & tap for the extra head bolt holes? Roll head gaskets work well if you can find them. Did you use the heads as they came from Indy without taking a skim cut? Did you have the block deck squared?
Block is square decked the heads have been angle milled 125 thousands 1/2 inch head bolts and they are not drilled for the extra bolt gaskets are cometic mls gaskets we might have a set of rolls id have to check if there the correct thickness.
AMXstocker1 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 12, 2018 5:43 pm
Ive heard about low hp stockers having success putting in a bunch of timing below and up to converter stall. Atleast to the 60ft mark, in our case with small tires and some horsepower we dont really want to increase starting line torque much and after the leave the car never sees less than 6600 or so, the only place #s at 3-6400rpm would matter would be the initial converter hit in my opinion
What you've heard is true, and it's applicable in higher HP Stockers too. The latter is my point of reference in my comments about power curves & converter behaviors. Not just on one car out back......On a few hundred of them actually.
Frankshaft wrote: ↑Fri Sep 14, 2018 5:24 pm
Your one of those guys. . Whatever, Keep going slow. I could care less. Democrat I am assuming.
That's one of your problems, you make an awful lot of assumptions and you never posed any arguments with data or real logic.
I'm pretty sure that most people would consider 3400 to 3500 lb stockers running faster than 9:40 as not being slow, but you probably wouldn't know much about that since the only thing you seem to have in your head is a car that launches off of a trans brake.
The fact that most of your comments windup including personal Jabs and attempted insults should be used as proof that you actually are quite stupid and that nothing you say should be taken very seriously or considered as any form of truth.
AMXstocker1 you respot faced the head bolt holes after the angle cut I hope! It sometimes gets skipped, It can crack the deck into the cylinder walls and not clamp the head right.
That's one of your problems, you make an awful lot of assumptions and you never posed any arguments with data or real logic.
I'm pretty sure that most people would consider 3400 to 3500 lb stockers running faster than 9:40 as not being slow, but you probably wouldn't know much about that since the only thing you seem to have in your head is a car that launches off of a trans brake.
The fact that most of your comments windup including personal Jabs and attempted insults should be used as proof that you actually are quite stupid and that nothing you say should be taken very seriously or considered as any form of truth.
Then block me. Simple.
Done. About the only good piece of advice you've offered so far.
Actually the other advice he gave you is good advice.. Get a better converter.
Adkins uses some red sealant from Harbour Freight placed with a putty knife around the water ports ONLY on a used Cometic MLS. Sorry, I don’t have the sealant name with me...I’ll try and find it tomorrow.
Don’t forget SCE makes a head gasket which has an embossed wire ring around the cylinder walls. I forgot which version it is called. Sorry...it’s late and I’ve had a long day!
Never mind..I looked it up http://scegaskets.com/store/amc/amc-v-8 ... er-s29255/
Different bore sizes available. I would have used these except the thickness I need is not available. Next engine I will probably spec my deck height so I can use these SCE gaskets. I presently use Cometic MLS on my 390.
NHRA SS/G
1970 AMC AMX - 390 4-speed
Advanced Clutches - Red Line Racing Cams