I want to build a 383 stroker

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BadBrian
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I want to build a 383 stroker

Post by BadBrian »

I have a 4 bolt main 350 block I want to build a 383 stroker for my S10 truck which will be used at the track only!!! My budget is about $3000. What I need to know is other than a sbc 400 crank what else is involved in building a stroker and does the crank fit right in how big rods do I use 5.7 or 6.0 ect??? Do I have to do any machining to the block I need to know all that stuff before I go out and start spending money!!! Any and all information would be greatly appreciated thanks Brian
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Post by Fkned »

Ok here ya go.
1-don't use a 400 crank,it will be to costly to grind to fit and is almost 30 yrs old by now.Use a new stroker crank,like the cast steel Scat or someother aftermarket source.
2-the rods you use will depend on the pistons you buy.I have 6 inch rods in my 388 and have raised wrist pins to fit the longer rod.But you can use stock 400 rods w/stock 350 pistons also.
3-There shouldn't be any grinding or modifaction of the block that I remember,but I built mine 5 yrs ago also.
The one problem you might run into will be cam lobe and rod bolt clearences,you may need a small base circle cam.
Make sure you have enough head for the extra airflow needed for this application to perform fully.A stock chevy factory set most likely won't cut it if your looking for any serious power.Step up to a at least a set of 200cc sportsmans from world products or Pro 1's from Dart if you want alum.
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Post by dirtnap »

you are going to have to clearance the block a little also you are going to need a small base circle cam depending on the rods and pan you use there are sometimes some small clearance problems i have built several street strip 383s that make 500 hp the last one had track one Brodix heads 9 to 1 compression and if my failing memory serves me made 508 hp
idunno

Post by idunno »

Definatly use the 6" rod. The 350 cyl is shorter than the 400 and I hate to see the wrist pin location come out of the bottom of the cyl on a 5.7 rod assembly.If you put 12 point rod nuts on the rods you will not have to clearance the block.If you are planning to use a flat tappet cam clearance the rods,it is not good on a flat tappet lifter to reduce the base circle diameter on the cam,its just the lazy way out and still doesnt offer enough (ALL ) the time.Just lay the new rod over the stock 400 rod and you will see it doesnt take a whole lot.If yoe are running a stock pan sometimes the rod will just baerly touch at the rear of the pan around the oil filter so look for that.Other than that theyre pretty simple.
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Post by Wolfplace »

idunno wrote:Definatly use the 6" rod. The 350 cyl is shorter than the 400 and I hate to see the wrist pin location come out of the bottom of the cyl on a 5.7 rod assembly.If you put 12 point rod nuts on the rods you will not have to clearance the block.If you are planning to use a flat tappet cam clearance the rods,it is not good on a flat tappet lifter to reduce the base circle diameter on the cam,its just the lazy way out and still doesnt offer enough (ALL ) the time.Just lay the new rod over the stock 400 rod and you will see it doesnt take a whole lot.If yoe are running a stock pan sometimes the rod will just baerly touch at the rear of the pan around the oil filter so look for that.Other than that theyre pretty simple.
=
Not necessarily true. I do a number of these & 12 point nuts do not always clear.
I use the Scat 7/16" bolt capscrew rods in most of these & they have a LOT of cam clearance, more than a 400 stock rod, but you still need to check the bottom of the bores for bolt clearance.
Last edited by Wolfplace on Fri Feb 04, 2005 11:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Gary 540 »

A quick tip is to run a 5/8" open ender around the top part of the rod, grind where it wont go ( not much) and you have cam clearance. Simple.
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Post by Wolfplace »

Gary 540 wrote:A quick tip is to run a 5/8" open ender around the top part of the rod, grind where it wont go ( not much) and you have cam clearance. Simple.
=
I don't understand :?:

Explain to the denser of us,, like me ](*,)
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Post by Gary 540 »

Mike, what I do is assemble and torque rod to specs without bearing shell,
Then take a 5/8" wrench (spanner) and using the open end slide it over parting line and rotate towards beam.
It will hit on the high point of rod, the same high point that whacks the camshaft, I slowly grind rod until wrench goes all the way from parting line to beam with stopping.
I have used this method on I & H beams as well as std 5.7 Chevy rods.
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Post by Wolfplace »

Gary 540 wrote:Mike, what I do is assemble and torque rod to specs without bearing shell,
Then take a 5/8" wrench (spanner) and using the open end slide it over parting line and rotate towards beam.
It will hit on the high point of rod, the same high point that whacks the camshaft, I slowly grind rod until wrench goes all the way from parting line to beam with stopping.
I have used this method on I & H beams as well as std 5.7 Chevy rods.
Gary
Thanks Gary,
I'll have to try it, I just lay the rod over a 400 rod & if necessary grind it so it has the same or more clearance where the 400 rod bolt is.
Super easy on the capscrew stuff which is all I use anymore
Mike
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Re: I want to build a 383 stroker

Post by Racer7088 »

BadBrian wrote:I have a 4 bolt main 350 block I want to build a 383 stroker for my S10 truck which will be used at the track only!!! My budget is about $3000. What I need to know is other than a sbc 400 crank what else is involved in building a stroker and does the crank fit right in how big rods do I use 5.7 or 6.0 ect??? Do I have to do any machining to the block I need to know all that stuff before I go out and start spending money!!! Any and all information would be greatly appreciated thanks Brian
With the current Eagle H-Beams they already clear a regular base cirle stock diameter cam housing at any base circle at 3.75 stroke. You can simply wack a little more off of the corners up there for the bigger strokes. You usually have to cleance the bottom fo the cylinders a little though but the newer EAgles have shorter bolt heads than before.

The Scat oliver looking 7/16 capscrew rods also have a good amount of cam clearance too.

I'd do the 6 inch rod with the 1.125 piston for most apps and maybe a 5.850 for a turbo or poweradder that need really low rings or a big dish.
Erik Koenig

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