Ladder bar basic
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Ladder bar basic
I have a car that seems to turn the tires excessively on the starting line. Its an early Camaro with a ladder bar set up. Its about 3200# with driver. 468 BBC with a stick and 10.5x31 tire. 130# rate rear springs. It usually has mid to high 140 60's. We have the front very loose. Afco double adjustable. Mcleod adjustable clutch with 700# base. The ladder bars are in the middle hole-the bottom bar is now parallel to the body.
I thought about lowering the front of the ladder bar, but I feel this is just a band aid for another problem.
Any Ideas?
I thought about lowering the front of the ladder bar, but I feel this is just a band aid for another problem.
Any Ideas?
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- sc68z28
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- Location: Riverside California. ---Bill.
What is your MPH ?
I'll be watching this thread too.
I feel there is more in my deal also, it's similar to yours.
Also have my ladder bars in the middle, adjustable clutch, 10.5W 28" tires.
What is your first gear ratio and rear gear ?
---Bill.
I'll be watching this thread too.
I feel there is more in my deal also, it's similar to yours.
Also have my ladder bars in the middle, adjustable clutch, 10.5W 28" tires.
What is your first gear ratio and rear gear ?
---Bill.
Last edited by sc68z28 on Thu May 01, 2008 10:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
68 Camaro, Procharged 380ci, FAST EFI, GF5r trans, Advanced Clutches 7" two disc,
Best 60' 1.28 vid, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OLzx5jBo4w
Best 60' 1.28 vid, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OLzx5jBo4w
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- sc68z28
- New Member
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- Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:02 pm
- Location: Riverside California. ---Bill.
Ed, I am happy to hear you say that raising the instant center "hits the tire harder" I think thats in agreement with Dave Morgans book. A few people have told me to lower the ladder bars for a harder hit, that had me confused ??Ed-vancedEngines wrote:Try moving front ladder bars up one hole , begin with your shocks tighter on the extension.
Ed
I had moved mine UP one hole to the center hole (was 2nd to bottom, of 5 holes) this seems to help mine. At the same time I loosened up the extension on the rear shocks, thinking that it would allow some seperation and plant the tire better. Not true?? I'm at -2.5 degrees pinion.
Stick Racer, Wow, 5.29 gears!! You must be taching near 8K at the big end?
BTW my car weighs 3310 race ready, rear springs are 150#s. I am currently changing all my gear ratios, was 3.25 1st with a 3.50 rear. Going to a 3.09 low, plus my small tire, and not spinning the engine past 7K, a 4.11 rear should work. I leave at 6200 rpm, shift at 6800 or so, and plan on trapping around 6800 @ near 140 mph.
I'm NOT using stiff sidewalls, but I run tubes. In the pic below I had 11.7 lbs of air and they seem to be working.
---Bill.
68 Camaro, Procharged 380ci, FAST EFI, GF5r trans, Advanced Clutches 7" two disc,
Best 60' 1.28 vid, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OLzx5jBo4w
Best 60' 1.28 vid, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OLzx5jBo4w
Ed, I am happy to hear you say that raising the instant center "hits the tire harder" I think thats in agreement with Dave Morgans book. A few people have told me to lower the ladder bars for a harder hit, that had me confused ??sc68z28 wrote:Ed-vancedEngines wrote:Try moving front ladder bars up one hole , begin with your shocks tighter on the extension.
Ed
I had moved mine UP one hole to the center hole (was 2nd to bottom, of 5 holes) this seems to help mine. At the same time I loosened up the extension on the rear shocks, thinking that it would allow some seperation and plant the tire better. Not true?? I'm at -2.5 degrees pinion.
Stick Racer, Wow, 5.29 gears!! You must be taching near 8K at the big end?
BTW my car weighs 3310 race ready, rear springs are 150#s. I am currently changing all my gear ratios, was 3.25 1st with a 3.50 rear. Going to a 3.09 low, plus my small tire, and not spinning the engine past 7K, a 4.11 rear should work. I leave at 6200 rpm, shift at 6800 or so, and plan on trapping around 6800 @ near 140 mph.
I'm NOT using stiff sidewalls, but I run tubes. In the pic below I had 11.7 lbs of air and they seem to be working.
---Bill.
do you spray that car or is it n/a?
If its not one thing its five!
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Most likely turning this engine higher than it needs to be, but the tires are the 31 inch M/Ts. Through the traps at about 7500.sc68z28 wrote:Ed, I am happy to hear you say that raising the instant center "hits the tire harder" I think thats in agreement with Dave Morgans book. A few people have told me to lower the ladder bars for a harder hit, that had me confused ??Ed-vancedEngines wrote:Try moving front ladder bars up one hole , begin with your shocks tighter on the extension.
Ed
I had moved mine UP one hole to the center hole (was 2nd to bottom, of 5 holes) this seems to help mine. At the same time I loosened up the extension on the rear shocks, thinking that it would allow some seperation and plant the tire better. Not true?? I'm at -2.5 degrees pinion.
Stick Racer, Wow, 5.29 gears!! You must be taching near 8K at the big end?
BTW my car weighs 3310 race ready, rear springs are 150#s. I am currently changing all my gear ratios, was 3.25 1st with a 3.50 rear. Going to a 3.09 low, plus my small tire, and not spinning the engine past 7K, a 4.11 rear should work. I leave at 6200 rpm, shift at 6800 or so, and plan on trapping around 6800 @ near 140 mph.
I'm NOT using stiff sidewalls, but I run tubes. In the pic below I had 11.7 lbs of air and they seem to be working.
---Bill.
This car also has 5 holes of adjustment at the front of the ladder bar. It is currently in the center hole. I have yet to check the pinion angle, but I believe it is close to -2.
It just seems to spin the tires excessively at the hit. I have the clutch as soft as what I feel will still work. Less base and counter weight is a possibility.
Just looking for some input. Thanks.
- sc68z28
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- Location: Riverside California. ---Bill.
I do NOT spray at this time. Mine has been getting 9 psi boost from an F1 Procharger.norton wrote:
do you spray that car or is it n/a?
Stick Racer, the day the above and this pic was taken my 60' were going away, I was 1.44 and 1.46, not spinning. The data logs showed that I was not getting the clutch to lock up ( it was to loose ) there must be a pretty fine line on our clutch adjustments. I'm still learning that part too.
Our clutches (mine is a 7" two disc) are so different I do not think we can compare any of that.
A good forum for adjustable clutch questions is
http://www.umtrnorth.com/forums/default.asp
Post your combo in the Clutch Tech area. There are some very knowledgeable people there, see what they think.
I expect to see you there, or are you already a member?
---Bill.
68 Camaro, Procharged 380ci, FAST EFI, GF5r trans, Advanced Clutches 7" two disc,
Best 60' 1.28 vid, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OLzx5jBo4w
Best 60' 1.28 vid, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OLzx5jBo4w
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sc68z28,
There is no problem with the clutch. When I say I don't want to go any lower on the base, it is because I don't want to slip the clutch and spin the tires. Yes, I said that right. If you don't 'hit' the tires hard enough, the clutch will slip and spin the tires. Sounds like its not possible, but it happens. Been there.
I haven't had tuned under the car yet. I am just looking for different opinions on what to do to this car to get it to hook with alittle more consistently. I have a stocker with factory type suspension (Youngblood clutch) and another good friend has a 4-link car (Ram clutch). I have a handle on these cars. Never tackled a ladder bar yet.
Im alittle more east of the UMTA guys. You'll find me at www.prostickracing.com. Friend with the 4 link car is that yellow Chevelle on top. That would be me with the white Camaro just under. The car i'm working on is also in our group, but no pictures yet.
There is no problem with the clutch. When I say I don't want to go any lower on the base, it is because I don't want to slip the clutch and spin the tires. Yes, I said that right. If you don't 'hit' the tires hard enough, the clutch will slip and spin the tires. Sounds like its not possible, but it happens. Been there.
I haven't had tuned under the car yet. I am just looking for different opinions on what to do to this car to get it to hook with alittle more consistently. I have a stocker with factory type suspension (Youngblood clutch) and another good friend has a 4-link car (Ram clutch). I have a handle on these cars. Never tackled a ladder bar yet.
Im alittle more east of the UMTA guys. You'll find me at www.prostickracing.com. Friend with the 4 link car is that yellow Chevelle on top. That would be me with the white Camaro just under. The car i'm working on is also in our group, but no pictures yet.
- sc68z28
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- Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:02 pm
- Location: Riverside California. ---Bill.
Andy, sorry I misread the statement above. Looks like you would be someone who could help me with clutch set up. Got my dual 7" from Rob also. With his help I'll figure it out.Stick Racing wrote: I have the clutch as soft as what I feel will still work. Less base and counter weight is a possibility.
Just looking for some input.
BTW your 69 is great looking car, and #2 in the points, that's a job well done.
Hopefully we will get more input on set up for a ladder bar car, I fell like I have hyjacked your thread. Sorry again. I need to just sit back and follow this and stop interrupting.
---Bill.
- sc68z28
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- Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:02 pm
- Location: Riverside California. ---Bill.
No problem here, I understood your question, you just did not catch the Procharger part in my sig.norton wrote:i didn't ask the spray question to be a smart ass
was just wondering about the mph and the weight...if you were doing that with a n/a 383 i was going to do some serious brain picking
---Bill.
68 Camaro, Procharged 380ci, FAST EFI, GF5r trans, Advanced Clutches 7" two disc,
Best 60' 1.28 vid, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OLzx5jBo4w
Best 60' 1.28 vid, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OLzx5jBo4w