GM A body Rear body Tie Down Location for Towing?

[CraigG.]

Hey Everybody,

How do people tie down the body of a GM A body while towing to keep the rear from bouncing up and down?
Stock frame and 8 pt. roll bar, slicks - drag suspension.

Thanks Again, Craig

[Skeezix]

Use a racheting-strap wrapped over the axle tubes and snug it down until you see body-squat.

Being safety-nuts, we use one on each side.

[ZIGGY]

I'm not sure what the OP is trying to eliminate, but if it's body bounce, I don't think tying the axle housing down will do it.

[Skeezix]

I'm not sure what the OP is trying to eliminate,

but if it's body bounce,

I don't think tying the axle housing down will do it.

What were your suggestions?

We rachet the rear down until the rear bumper *begins* to drop as the slicks begin to "flex",
and have rolled on just fine since 1976. (Be sure to transport w/add'l psi in your slicks)

Controlling any loosey-goosey "bounce" during transport (of a typical full-bodied car with F/R drag-suspension) beyond those redundant safety measures is pretty much dependent upon the
front shock settings.

Is there the (up/down) expected suspension travel with *any* car on a roll-back/flat-bed, yes.

Is there even more movement ("bounce") with a full-bodied drag-car, with the expected drag-strip
suspension (esp. front-end) mods, yes.

(Can this "motion" be mildly disconcerting at first, yes.)

[ZIGGY]

What were your suggestions?

Don't have any;never worried much about it as long as the car was securely tied down. I did once see a ct race car trailered with a fixed rod in place of each shock. Even using quick release shock pins, I doubt it would be worth the effort in terms of reducing wear & tear on the springs & shocks. The transmission of shock & vibration can't be good for the car either. JMO.

[af2]

Ty the axles down and forget about the body bounce. Using Summit straps is good.

[Bubstr]

I just want to input what towing can do for a spring. If you think about it, the spring on the trailer and the spring on the car, act as a stacked spring. Stacked springs are used in circle track apps. The sum of the two springs gives a lesser rate than the lightest of the two. This can and does wear a spring out or change its rate and ride height from work hardening. I would suggest Blocking the car and eliminating any chance of this. I have turned a spring to junk going from Iowa to Florida before I started blocking. This was the days of leaf springs, and we where faced with finding tools to re arch some springs in a short amount of time. Add to this, some say that just the fact of the car not moving, makes for an easier drive. I don't really see much difference.

[ZIGGY]

For towing race cars with leaf springs, I agree blocking could be worthwhile. They are notorious for short and abruptly ending life, athough as mentioned they can be re-arched fairly easily. My recollection is that re-arched springs did not last as long as new.

[Nitrousknob]

See what MAC tie downs have to offer. Thats what I used for my car. I used the straps that went around the tire, dosen't control body movement, but they will keep your car on the trailer and that's the main thing.

[ZIGGY]

Downside to tire straps is possible result of a tire deflating.

[Classic Performance]

1966 GTO. I installed "D" rings in the frame. Aft of the rear wheels. Makes for a short tie down length.