Best cage A body GM

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Chipped tooth
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Best cage A body GM

Post by Chipped tooth » Mon Oct 07, 2013 4:25 pm

Looking at cages for 68 Tempest 12 point chromemolly

Stock dash but everything else gutted.

What kits seem to need the least or no rebending?

Also could use a good recomendation on tube notcher.

Any input welcome.

dave brode
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Re: Best cage A body GM

Post by dave brode » Mon Oct 07, 2013 9:43 pm

No expert here, but imo, the design that Chris Alston uses fits the windshield posts much better [there may be others using said design too]. The side bars come from the main hoop, with a bar between them behind the windshield. Most places use a "U" shaped bar from the main hoop, and the door bars must intersect those at the bend. Hard to fit the bar tight to the windshield post.


https://www.cachassisworks.com/p-514-10 ... e4130.aspx

http://www.swracecars.com/store/10-Poin ... AR_32.aspx

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Re: Best cage A body GM

Post by Chipped tooth » Tue Oct 08, 2013 1:20 am

I have installed a S&W cage in a 69 B body mopar, it needed a lot of rebending.

I don't want to have that again.

Has anyone used Autoweldchassis ?

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Re: Best cage A body GM

Post by dave brode » Wed Oct 09, 2013 5:03 pm

Understood, been there too. I only showed the link to S&W so you could see the design vs the style that alston uses. In case you didn't know.

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Re: Best cage A body GM

Post by Chipped tooth » Wed Oct 09, 2013 6:50 pm

Thanks Dave, I figured it had something to do with that lol

Do you have any good suggestions on a good notcher?

I want to stay with Chrome but steel shure is easier.

I wonder what the weight difference is???

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Re: Best cage A body GM

Post by dave brode » Wed Oct 09, 2013 10:54 pm

Chipped tooth wrote:Thanks Dave, I figured it had something to do with that lol

Do you have any good suggestions on a good notcher?

I want to stay with Chrome but steel shure is easier.

I wonder what the weight difference is???
I was hoping to see opinion here on tube notchers. I've done a few with a rock and a bone [grinder]. I've never done a moly cage. Maybe I'm cheap, but I don't see it being worth the money and the extra time fitting and tig welding. Some guys swear 100 lbs, but imo, it's more like 50 lbs max for a 10 point. There is a good thread here on the subject with pros/cons, but I can't find the bookmark....

p.s. - old Ryerson book here. These are round mechanical tubing weights for 1 & 5/8", so the weight of the roll cage tube may be a tad different?:

.134" = 2.134 lbs/ft
.083" = 1.367 lbs/ft

.667 lbs/ft difference. That's 66.7 lbs for 100'. Is there 100 feet of cage in a car? Probably not.


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Re: Best cage A body GM

Post by dave brode » Wed Oct 09, 2013 11:03 pm

the pipemaster gizmo looks like it would be handy;

http://www.swracecars.com/store/RollBar ... AR_24.aspx

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Re: Best cage A body GM

Post by Chipped tooth » Thu Oct 10, 2013 1:33 pm

Yes I seen that gizmo before, was thinking of buying one then just use plasma cutter to get close then final fit with carbide and sanding roll or flap wheel.

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Re: Best cage A body GM

Post by Confused » Sat Oct 12, 2013 10:45 am

https://www.jd2.com/p-64-the-beast-notcher.aspx

This is the notcher that I have. I really like it. I use standard bi-metal hole saws and have built many circle track Modifieds using it. Most of which have CrMo front halves. The rest of the cars are DOM. It requires a quality 1/2" drill. Make sure the drill has a side handle for support. I also use a JD Squared Model 3 bender to bend all of the tubing for the cages.

Not sure about drag chassis, but circle track cars have well over 100 feet of tubing in them. All of the little pieces start to add up. I like to use tube gussets rather than flat ones.

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Re: Best cage A body GM

Post by Chipped tooth » Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:10 pm

That's a nice notcher !!!!!

I might have to invest in one of those.

I think I'm gonna stick with CrMo, car is heavy as is.

Thanks for the info.

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