Rear wheels Wobble. What's acceptable?

[MileHighMan]

Hey guys. I got my rear together, and new wheels on, [weld drag lites] and they wobble. The flange seems to have run out of about .010. I would like to know what is acceptable. In my opinion, it should be perfect . This car is gonna go about 132mph+, and I don't want problems. With the wheels on, and the motor running in gear, it sure looks bad. I don't want any shake. Any Help, Please. Thanks, Dan.

[Baprace]

MileHighMan , I am an old drag racer , 60 , and if you can see that wobble then I would send the wheels back period. Are you sure it's the wheel and not the tire bead ? I do a lot of engine balancing and lot of aftermarket flywheels are junk , they show up on the balancer with run out so far out a person would wonder how is this possible to even being produced, let alone hanging on the back of an engine ? If the wheel can't go back mayby you could use some shim stock behind the wheel located on the studs to keep these wheels straight, myself I think they should be dead on and then balanced. If you doubt the severity of this take a couple of extra wheel weights and just add them to the right front of your road vehicle and try and drive that, you can't drive a warped brake rotor so why use the wheels ? At 130 mph + you can't take a chance and hurt yourself.

[Greenlight]

One wheel on my dragster has a runout of about 1/4" total and I have had absolutely no problems with vibrations, etc.

I did speak to the wheel manufactuer about it (these are ultra light weight two piece wheels made from 0.120" material, 15 x 8, 7.5 lbs) and he said that this was not uncommon for this type of light wheel. He also stated that everyone complains about this and he is very hesitant to make wheels this thin because of the complaints he gets regarding runout.

This is the 2nd set of these wheels that I have run and all four wheels have had some degree of runout. They perform flawlessly going down the race track, but look a little scarey the first time you see it with the car on jack stands as you warm up the engine/drivetrain.

On a light wheel, when you mount the tire with automated equipment you can easily create 0.010" runout.

[Baprace]

Greenlight, the wheels have to run with zero runout , anything other that that is just unacceptable, you pay a lot of money for these wheels , get a set that are straight, you would not want your crankshaft running out at all, so don't accept wheels that are not straight. Problem is most guy's can't feel the shake in a solid frame type car.

[mactheknife]

I have tried several brands of wheels and they all seem to have 0.10 or more of run out. Who out there makes a good wheel, one piece or a modular? You think for the money they charge some of these companies can build a wheel without run out.

[MileHighMan]

I bought these wheels because of their looks, weight, and the zero runout they advertised. I have already put the rim screws in, and would bet money I can't send them back. I watched the axle flange rotate, and it seems to have the runout. Is it possible to straighten an axle, or machine the flange flat to eliminate runout? It's only about .010 at the flange, but looks like alot with the wheel bolted back on. Thanks for your help. Dan.

[Cobra]

Tell us about your rear end setup. What parts, new or used, etc. You need to examine axles, housings, bearings, flanges, everything! Your life is in the balance!

[MileHighMan]

Cobra. The rear end is a dana 60 with a moser spool and the moser sealed bearings. I think the axles are stock, and are 35 spline. Thanks. Dan.

[Baprace]

MileHighMan, I have faced off many axle flanges with no trouble at all, I have also pressed axles straighter, on the flange cut I just use a center on one end and jaws on the other end of my lathe and just cut the flange, if it has some bend to it then I just press the area in the middle of the shaft that has the most runout betwen two V blocks, I press perhaps a 1/4 inch past center first and recheck it in my lathe if that is not enough go 1/2 inch past center and recheck it, some times I have gone almost an inch past center to save a guy's axle, I do a lot of Stock Car axles, and they are always getting hit and bent, on your axle I would try once to straighten it and then I think I would want a new axle just for peace of mind. Now if you have money I would always prefer the new axle first, but not everyone has extra cash. Also , how did the axle get bent in the first place ? is it twisting ? if yes then I would just junk it and get a new one, look at the splines they can tell you a lot. Hope this helps ya.

[MileHighMan]

I have a friend, that is a machinest coming over today, to give me a opinion on either pressing it straight, or machineing the face of the axle. Money does'nt grow on trees aroung here, but if this is not a simple fix, I will buy new axles. Thanks. Dan.

[Cobra]

Make certain to use aftermarket axles when using a spool. NHRA requires aftermarket axles on all vehicles with spools! Section 16, 2:11, 2006 rule book, page 205.

[dwilliams]

For whatever demented reason, I actually collect that sort of information...

Haynes "RX7 thru 1980"
- wheel runout limit, radial: 1.0mm (.04") steel
0.5mm (.02") aluminum
- wheel runout limit, lateral: 1.0mm (.04") steel
0.5mm (.02") aluminum
- tire runout limit (mounted) radial: 2.5mm (.098")
lateral: 3.0mm (.118")
- wheel bearing preload (at wheel set bolt) 0.45 to 0.65kg (0.99 to 1.43 lb)

'90 Corvette service manual
- 275/40-17 maximum wheel/tire assy radial or lateral runout .060"
- recommended runout is less than .050
- wheel runout radial .030, lateral .030
- max wheel stud runout (error in stud positioning) .030"

I've had my own tire mounting and balancing machines for ten years or so now, and I seldom see anything as precise as the specs above. And once the tire is on... in the real world, anything under 1/8" at the tread is dead nuts.

Now I know why upscale tire stores in the '50s often had tread shaving machines...