Brake fluid question
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- nickpohlaandp
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Brake fluid question
So I've been doing a lot of side work lately to find my project. Naturally that includes brake jobs. I'm thinking about building an auto bleeder out of one of those weed sprayer things. I'm curious, if I leave clean brake fluid will it be ok to store that way, or would I need to purge the container with some inert gas prior to storage to prevent it from collecting moisture? Thanks in advance for your help.
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Re: Brake fluid question
Storage in a sealed container is not a problem, long term storage with contact with the atmosphere will allow the fluid to absorb water.
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Re: Brake fluid question
I just redid my brake lines, or at least 75% of them. O’reilly Auto is very close to me. They did not have a fitting so I went down the road to NAPA. I was amazed at how much better the quality was for brake line fittings.
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1970 AMC AMX - 390 4-speed
Advanced Clutches - Red Line Racing Cams
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Re: Brake fluid question
Not automatic, but you can make bleeding MUCH easier, with a new clean oil squirt can and a turkey baster.
The oil can should have a pointy tube and be small enough for say 1/8" rubber "vacuum" hose to ppush onto it. The bigger the squirt can, the better.
1. Put several wraps of Teflon tape on the R/R bleeder. Use enough to make a seal between the bleeder and the wheel cyl/caliper body. With new fluid in squirt can, connect squirt hose to bleeder. A tie wrap on the bleeder end of hose is a good thing, but not 100% needed.
Start pumping new fluid into bleeder. The air and old fluid will be pushed to the mast cyl. Watch the mast cyl so not to run it over, and suck old dirty fluid out as needed with turkey baster. Re-fill squirt can often as needed, try not to run out and pump air. When new fluid appears in mast cyl, tighten bleeder, move to LR bleeder, repeat, repeat for both front bleeders.
One man operation. When you get done, Use a helper and do it the old way. You might get one little bubble of air from each bleeder, but often not.
Flush squirt can and turkey baster with soapy and save for next time.
Note that the teflon tape keep fluid from running out of the bleeder threads, and prevents sucking air between strokes.
Dave
The oil can should have a pointy tube and be small enough for say 1/8" rubber "vacuum" hose to ppush onto it. The bigger the squirt can, the better.
1. Put several wraps of Teflon tape on the R/R bleeder. Use enough to make a seal between the bleeder and the wheel cyl/caliper body. With new fluid in squirt can, connect squirt hose to bleeder. A tie wrap on the bleeder end of hose is a good thing, but not 100% needed.
Start pumping new fluid into bleeder. The air and old fluid will be pushed to the mast cyl. Watch the mast cyl so not to run it over, and suck old dirty fluid out as needed with turkey baster. Re-fill squirt can often as needed, try not to run out and pump air. When new fluid appears in mast cyl, tighten bleeder, move to LR bleeder, repeat, repeat for both front bleeders.
One man operation. When you get done, Use a helper and do it the old way. You might get one little bubble of air from each bleeder, but often not.
Flush squirt can and turkey baster with soapy and save for next time.
Note that the teflon tape keep fluid from running out of the bleeder threads, and prevents sucking air between strokes.
Dave
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Re: Brake fluid question
The problem I've seen a couple of times while reverse bleeding is pushing very old (gunky) fluid back through an antilock system, it can cause issues.
As for using a garden sprayer it should work at least the first time, they do look something like the pumps you can get off the tool trucks for $125.00 or so plus you will have to make your own adapter,no big deal just some more time, 10 psi max with plastic reservoir, I have no idea how the internal seals will live with brake fluid, they may swell maybe not.
Sorry if this double posts but there should be no problem leaving fluid in the sprayer it is a sealed container, the fuller you keep it the better off you are. That might be getting a little picky but thats my 2 cents worth.
As for using a garden sprayer it should work at least the first time, they do look something like the pumps you can get off the tool trucks for $125.00 or so plus you will have to make your own adapter,no big deal just some more time, 10 psi max with plastic reservoir, I have no idea how the internal seals will live with brake fluid, they may swell maybe not.
Sorry if this double posts but there should be no problem leaving fluid in the sprayer it is a sealed container, the fuller you keep it the better off you are. That might be getting a little picky but thats my 2 cents worth.
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Re: Brake fluid question
Fwiw, I have pushed new fluid from rear through anti-lock without issue. I've only done one w/anti-lock, but it worked ok.
Dave
Dave