Trunk lid lock question

[lmccoll2]

I want to put a fuel cell and move my battery to the trunk. My question is about the trunk lock, do people keep the whole mechanism and still use a key? I had thought about keep the mechanism and removing the lock part and just put in a short rod to turn to open the trunk. My car is a 74 Camaro.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[MileHighMan]

Imccoll. I have a 76 camaro, so I know how small your trunk is. Not much room for a battery, and a fuel cell. Although my car is strickly a race car. I kept the lock mechanism. I also kept the stock fuel tank that we installed a sump in. Another thing we retained is all the lights, turn signals and even the horn. To look at it, you'd think it was still driven on the street. Right now were're running mid 10s in over 6,000 feet of air. All motor. Good Luck. Dan.

[lmccoll2]

Did you change the fuel pick up line in to the tank? If so , how do you change the pickup tube to something larger?

[MileHighMan]

Imccoll2. Yes, absolutely. When I had the sump installed in the tank, The part# is 550-40793 in your handy little jegs catalog. It features two 1/2in NPT ports. The only thing hooked up is the factory sending unit for the fuel gauge. The old fuel lines were left unhooked, to now become a vent. I wanted to stay with a street car theme. Everybody seems to like it. Good Luck. Dan.

[lmccoll2]

I see the sum on jegs, makes sense. I take this is welded to the old tank?

Did you make yours have the bottom connections come out toward the front of the car or was it a side connection? I was thinking if the connections come out toward the front, it is a little close to the exhaust.

[MileHighMan]

Imccoll2. My fuel line is faced to the rear of the car. I have a filter, and pump installed on the rear valance panel, From there it goes to the motor. Now, with that being said, I am gonna change my fuel system some. I used to have the fuel line go to a regulator, then dead head to the carb. I am now installing a 3 port return style regulator p/n# 650-4309, to aid in fueling the motor. Good Luck. Dan.

[lmccoll2]

Is the sump welded to the tank?

[MileHighMan]

Imccoll2. Yes it's welded. I sent my gas-tank to a radiator shop to have it cleaned. Then used a holesaw, and cut some holes, next, brazed in the sump. CAUTION. DO NOT WELD ON YOUR TANK, TILL IT'S BEEN CLEANED. Good Luck. Dan.

[lmccoll2]

Thanks for the info Dan, I think that may be the way I go.

My engine is at the shop right now, I picked up a sbc 350 020 nickel block standard bore and we are putting a Eagle forged bottom end, 12.5:1 compression with a Herbert solid roller cam. With the heads and intake that we already have, I hope to make 550 horsepower or so. Our old engine was about 425 horsepower and the fuel system is all OEM except for the pump. Rest of the car is a built TH350, stall 3500 with 4:11 gears, 26" street slicks. There is no a/c or heater parts, fiberglass hood, all lights work.

[Masher Manufacturing]

My oval track car has the stock trunk latch and lock. I just leave the key in the lock at all times.

[BillyShope]

My oval track car has the stock trunk latch and lock. I just leave the key in the lock at all times.

Reminds me of the forties. Ford and Chrysler products had handles to open the trunk, but GM required a key. On a Saturday night, a trip around the town square would reveal keys in all the GM car trunks owned by farmers. Commonly, they'd stick the trunk key in the trunk when they bought the car and it would never be removed.