Well I finally got the rear suspension lined out I think. I took the car out for a very short burst, just to keep the fluids flowing (she's been sitting for awhile) and she was pulling to the right.
I've bought a plumb bob but i'm not quite sure where to start taking measurements.
The dilema i'm having is wether to trust the rear frame rails, in the pic it's where the red link is tied to, or should I set it up with respect to the front wheels? For now I just measured the lower control arm lengths from the center of the bolts about as equally as you can using a tape measure and a pair of eyes.
Don't use control arms or ball joints to square rear. You want it square with the chassis as a whole. First do some cross measuring to make sure frame is not bent. Then get a center line by going off the chassis in at least 4 places front core support, cowl torque boxes , rear torque boxes, and the rear bumper area. Use plum bob from each side to find center on each. if all the centers don't make a straight line find out why. that straight centerline is what is used to locate rear. Even front to rear can be measured from center line, just measure forward any amount and then measure back to a like point on each side of axle.
The front wheels are not a good point because the alignment can put them off or even a runaway curb. Some chassis are built with one front wheel trailing the other also. If you cross measure the rear off the centerline, you won't ever be scratching your head wondering if it's right.
Something to think about. You can get a lazer measuring device from local hardware store, then set targets at the bottom of plum bobs. This can be very accurate and turns it into a one man job.
everything Bubstr told you. Plus the factory chassis will have in the front usually behind the control arms what is called *Jig Holes* those are used to originally line up the frame in the beginning. If you look you will likley find several *Jig Holes* in the stock frame sections in the front and in the rear.
I suggest when using the factory jig holes to do all the linear measurements and the X measurements and the triangle measurements. The triangulated measurements come from either finding a center -point jig hole in the front cross member or by finding a direct center from measuring between two jig holes. Te centerpoint location can be anywhere from the tranny to the front of the car.
Like Bubstr old you, I would not rust anything on the rear of a Unibody Car to align with like Spring Boxes, or rocker panels etc.
Establish a place on the rear housing at the far sides thatr is exactly the same on both sides. I get all measurements exact from side to side. Starigt length, triangle legs the same length, each X measurement the same length.
With a Unibody car with out good subframe connectors it can be all perfect today and way off by a few days later. Subframe connectors are important.
What in the world is that verticle red link for?
Anti-roll bar, maybe?
82 to 92 F bodies do NOT have symetrical front frame rails. Measure from the front lower cont arm ball joint zerk fitting back to a 5/8ths x 1 and 3/8th hole(aprox) that is located near the rear control arm mounts. If these measurements are symetrical, good, if not loosen the front subframe bolts and shift the subframe around till things are square up front. Then we can start in the back. With the car on a flat level surface, and the rear end at ride heighth, use a large carpenters square to measure from the front of the housing to the previously mentioned oblong holes. Sounds easy, doesnt it.
Nwguy wrote:82 to 92 F bodies do NOT have symetrical front frame rails. Measure from the front lower cont arm ball joint zerk fitting back to a 5/8ths x 1 and 3/8th hole(aprox) that is located near the rear control arm mounts. If these measurements are symetrical, good, if not loosen the front subframe bolts and shift the subframe around till things are square up front. Then we can start in the back. With the car on a flat level surface, and the rear end at ride heighth, use a large carpenters square to measure from the front of the housing to the previously mentioned oblong holes. Sounds easy, doesnt it.
Doesn't it always?
I'm just too caught up with work and school right now to mess with it. I found a local chassis guy that has scales and alignment equipment. I'm going to start asking questions, if they give me the right answers I'm just going to drop of the car.
I'm a BIG DIY'er but the money to get the right equipment and the time involved to learn right now is too much. I can't wait to finish school.
I built an external rectangular steel box section jig that quickly comes apart with some pip pins. This fits right around the whole car at hub height. On level ground it quickly establishes some parallels, and accurate hub center points and distances. Toe is pretty easy to check with this too. Very simple and easy to make, and because it goes around the outside of the car, nothing gets in the way.
Just make sure you can open any doors over the top of this frame.
