crazycuda wrote:Bubstr,
Im am running the S-n-W rear frame and ladder bar setup
Yes but if sub frame connectors and or cage was installed on a chassis that wasn't level you could have a problem. I'm not saying it is but it is worth checking out.
I may be a little too picky but these things are nice to know when your sorting out your chassis. Even if S&W did it themselves I would check it. They are reputable, but the peace of mind you have knowing is worth a lot. What the hey, it's winter time what else do you have to do but play with your race car. Thing is if the back is straight, that narrows it down to the front. If the front frame is square that leaves the torsion bars. You could also isolate by cutting a couple bar stock coil over replacements for the rear. 4 holes and a hack saw takes any difference in the rear coils out of the picture. just make them even.
[quote="Bubstr. 4 holes and a hack saw takes any difference in the rear coils out of the picture. just make them even.[/quote]
Thats going to be my next plan of attack. Mostly because I can't get the "its in the rear suspension" out of my dam head. LOL
One of my reasons for thinking A frame front is I know the dr side torsion bar mount was rewelded in place. Also I have an 80 monte carlo frame laying around. All measurements say it will fit, Oil pan swap to a rear sump and some custom headers ( planing on a custom set anyway need bigger tubes) and its done sorta speak. Plus I know they make a bunch of roundy round parts for the MC front suspension.
Sorry if I ask alot of questions, but you never stop learning if you ask questions
Another way to look at all this is to measure the corner weights. This is a standard suspension set up procedure for the serious road racers, but something very few of the drag strip guys even know about.
If there is massive weight jacked across the front torsion bars, the scales will show that up.
It can be like sitting on a chair with one short leg. Not only will the chair rock, but almost 100% of the weight will always be on two diagonal legs. Suspensions can be like that, with the most of the weight sitting on two diagonal wheels.
Just getting the car to sit level is NOT a goods indication that all is well. Measure the corner weights and know for sure.
And disconnect the links to any antiroll bars before measuring the weights, they can be installed with a permanent preload twist, which can confuse things even further.
Warpspeed wrote:Another way to look at all this is to measure the corner weights. This is a standard suspension set up procedure for the serious road racers, but something very few of the drag strip guys even know about.
If there is massive weight jacked across the front torsion bars, the scales will show that up.
It can be like sitting on a chair with one short leg. Not only will the chair rock, but almost 100% of the weight will always be on two diagonal legs. Suspensions can be like that, with the most of the weight sitting on two diagonal wheels.
Just getting the car to sit level is NOT a goods indication that all is well. Measure the corner weights and know for sure.
And disconnect the links to any antiroll bars before measuring the weights, they can be installed with a permanent preload twist, which can confuse things even further.
Tony, That was the best advice that could be given!
I suspect even if he found a cross weight bias, which he most likely would It may be hard to determine if all or some was static weight placement, ( early Mopars had engine off set to the right on larger engines) or un square chassis or a torsion bar not set right, or combinations of all of them. It would just show the difference in corner weight and cross weight bias. How would he narrow the problem down? Of course if one bar was completely let down it would show in a low front end.
