Building a Borg Warner T-10

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hotrodhp
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Building a Borg Warner T-10

Post by hotrodhp » Thu Jan 22, 2015 10:53 pm

I am looking to build my T-10 for the strip, anyone know where to get performance parts for these?

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Re: Building a Borg Warner T-10

Post by PackardV8 » Fri Jan 23, 2015 9:40 am

What year/model tranny? Behind what engine? In front of what rear axle ratio? What car weight?

Hint - begin with the correct gear ratios. There are a dozen possibilities, but most of the quick guys all use the 2.20 or 2.23 first gear sets.
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Re: Building a Borg Warner T-10

Post by hotrodhp » Fri Jan 23, 2015 6:22 pm

69 camaro, 383 525hp w/o nitrous, sintered iron clutch, 3300 lbs, 4:30 rear gear. This combo will see around 200 shot of nitrous very soon. I believe it's a 70's model t-10. I would like to find out if I could build this one to handle my combo or if I needed a Jericho , Liberty, G-Force etc to do the job. It's mostly a street car but will see the strip 3-4 trips a year.

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Re: Building a Borg Warner T-10

Post by PackardV8 » Fri Jan 23, 2015 7:04 pm

It's all about the suspension, the tires used and how the car hooks. If it's a real street car, you might be OK. Race tires and suspension will twist the input shaft off an early T10. If yours is the later Super T10, they are stronger.
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Re: Building a Borg Warner T-10

Post by hotrodhp » Fri Jan 23, 2015 7:07 pm

Caltracs on the rear, with 9 inch slicks.

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Re: Building a Borg Warner T-10

Post by PackardV8 » Fri Jan 23, 2015 9:03 pm

hotrodhp wrote:Caltracs on the rear, with 9 inch slicks.
The T10 is unlikely to live long and prosper when the slicks are hooking 725hp. A McLeod Soft Lok clutch is about the only suggestion which might help.
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Re: Building a Borg Warner T-10

Post by Truckedup » Tue Jan 27, 2015 6:54 am

Being a street car you may want to spend a few grand on a TKO600 5 speed.
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Re: Building a Borg Warner T-10

Post by autogear » Tue Jan 27, 2015 10:42 am

Good T10 parts are VERY hard to come by. Richmond is gone now, the ST10 was retooled in China and they have a HOST of issues with parts. Rings not round, shortages on gasket sets, sidecover architecture is FUBAR and on and on.

"Super T10s" have a 26 spline input and 32 spline output. I'd avoid anything deeper than the 2.64 1st ST10 at your power level. However; an M23 (muncie based drag-specific 4spd) will handle what you're doing easily if you get the clutch and suspension dialed in. These are new production, American and European parts, and come with a warranty. You can get one from 5speeds.com; Jody's Transmissions, Midwest Muncies, or us directly.

If you want a TKO; Id talk to Bob Hanlon at Hanlon Motorsports

You can contact the guys at Roltek for some T10 parts if you want to give it a shot.

Be careful with nitrous and a manual gearbox

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Re: Building a Borg Warner T-10

Post by hotrodhp » Tue Jan 27, 2015 5:11 pm

A progressive controller with the nitrous should help on parts shouldn't it? Thats my plan for a nitrous setup.

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Re: Building a Borg Warner T-10

Post by autogear » Wed Jan 28, 2015 3:42 pm

It SHOULD. But, Im not a nitrous user. Shockloading and wheelhop kill gearboxes. Clutch too tight? *boom* Bad tire shake or wheelhop? *boom*

Don't "shift through the button" You want to be OFF the spray when you shift.
Get your car dialed in NA and then sneak up on the nitrous. Clutch and tires are your safety valves; so use them as such. Id rather have your air pressure a little to high and you blow the tires off on a bad run; rather than fight through it and blow 3rd gear. Similarly; you want *just enough* clutch to do the job so that you'll smoke the clutch and abort the run rather than grab too hard and shatter the input gear.

Clutch: talk to Tim Hyatt of Hyatt Racing Services in Ohio
Nitrous? Well theres some great guys in the engines forum; maybe Dave Kohler of Kohler Injection?. You could start a thread in the engines forum here about progressive nitrous controllers and 'stick cars...you'd probably generate more traffic over there than in the transmission sub-forum. If you get the nitrous and clutch dialed in; I think an M23 would be great for you.

Thats a fully synchro'd box; but it can be built without the blocker rings and "slick shifted"
An M23 weighs 85 pounds and a pair of slick shifted sliders is about $75.

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Re: Building a Borg Warner T-10

Post by wyrmrider » Tue Apr 14, 2015 11:28 am

x2 on the soft luck clutch or a Borg and Beck Long from McLeod
coming out of the bleach box and hooking will kill your run

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Re: Building a Borg Warner T-10

Post by pdq67 » Wed Apr 15, 2015 6:23 pm

I'm glad Autogear stepped in here because I was going to say that I thought that their "strong" Muncie was good to 700+.

Otherwise, you might consider an old MOPAR A833 or a dedicated "Top-Loader".

Of course you never know, you might like changing out 3.50 1st gear Sags all the time.. He, He!! Just had to is all.

Please carry-on.

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Re: Building a Borg Warner T-10

Post by autogear » Fri Apr 17, 2015 12:53 pm

PDQ;
You are always welcome around here at AG LOL. Our 'strong Muncie' transmission is about 95% AG design content. Theres only about 3 or 4 part numbers that are left as GM designed them; mostly in the reverse geartrain. To be fair to my boss George, calling our 4spd a "Muncie" is kinda like calling a Jerico a "Ford Toploader".

We don't rate our gearboxes for HP/TQ because each and every one of our customers has a different set of rules we have to play by. A 2000LB N/A 500 HP smallblock drag car puts a different load on a gearbox than a 4500LB 4dr Impala Station wagon with a ZZ502 and BFG TA Radials.

The learning curve with adjustable clutches and nitrous is steep; you're more than likely going to break a few things before you get up to speed. I do have customers running 10.0's fully synchro'd. BUT it took a light car and a lot of conservative tuning to get there, with some broken parts along the way. The geartrain can handle the static load you have, but the shockload from a bad tune will break anyones gearbox.

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