Ujoint strength

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fishman
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Ujoint strength

Post by fishman » Sun Feb 01, 2015 12:51 am

Wondering
1310 u joint horsepower handle or torque
1330 u joint horsepower handle or torque
R the cups the same od but trunnions different size
Also if got u joints without grease fittings how much stronger
Would it be thanks
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Re: Ujoint strength

Post by Greenlight » Sun Feb 01, 2015 11:07 pm

Here are general specs. from Spicer.

Image

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U-joints w/o a grease zerk will be able to take more torque than one with a zerk. Also, some HP u-joints are "beefier" than others.
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Re: Ujoint strength

Post by fishman » Mon Feb 02, 2015 6:31 pm

Yikes. I have 1310 ujoint only car which has 650 hp
Been running them for 4 years and they have grease fittings on them
Am I lucky or should I keep running them or build new drive shaft with 1350 joints
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Re: Ujoint strength

Post by Ken0069 » Wed Feb 04, 2015 7:47 am

Don't know how much you race, but if they've done OK for this long then they "might" be OK for your combo.

Personally, I prefer the 1350 joints with NO grease fitting as I've run them behind an 800+HP NO2 engine in a 3500lb door car with zero problems. In fact, they are the only thing in the drive train in that car that hasn't been broken since the car was built back in 1991.

If you continue to run it with those 1310 joints, just make sure that the front drive shaft safety loop is a GOOD one! :wink:
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Re: Ujoint strength

Post by Speedbump » Wed Feb 04, 2015 12:47 pm

You increase your chances, when running a grease fitting joint, if you make sure to put the hole in compression instead of extension in terms of force applied.
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Re: Ujoint strength

Post by fishman » Wed Feb 04, 2015 1:40 pm

Thanks for the replies guys
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Re: Ujoint strength

Post by fishman » Fri Feb 06, 2015 9:00 pm

I was searching and I found lakewood makes a chromoly ujoint with no grease fittings
Being it's chromoly it should be stronger
They have 1310 chromoly ones and also a crossover one from 1310 to 1330
Has anyone tried these ujoints and what do u think of them

Thanks
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Re: Ujoint strength

Post by Dan Timberlake » Sat Feb 07, 2015 9:23 am

fishman wrote:Yikes. I have 1310 ujoint only car which has 650 hp
Been running them for 4 years and they have grease fittings on them
Am I lucky or should I keep running them or build new drive shaft with 1350 joints
=======================
An inspection to check for "brinneling" and wet fluorescent mag particle inspection would answer a lot of questions about the condition of your u-joints and their suitability for your application, so far.

Breakage, almost certainly preceded by progressive cracking - "better" materials can be completely undermined by bad geometry or even a few misplaced notches or scratches that provide nice stress concentrations for (low cycle or high cycle) fatigue

Brinelling - if full length of the needles, I think the basic joint size is too small. (or the heat treat is bad or too shallow)
- if toward one end the cross/trunnion is deflecting too much. Better steel won't reduce deflection. Beefier proportioned parts are needed.

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Re: Ujoint strength

Post by Supershafts » Sun Mar 01, 2015 1:22 pm

That lakewood stuff id leave it alone right where it is.

If you're worried about it get a 5-1310x it is only 100ft lbs off the 1350 greaseable, which is what Spicer used when they made that chart someone posted part of
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Re: Ujoint strength

Post by tubeman426 » Wed Mar 04, 2015 11:23 pm

I bought sever duty u joints and the grease fitting is in one of the caps. I would think this to be as strong as no grease fitting at all? What do you guys think?

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Re: Ujoint strength

Post by Splitter » Thu Mar 05, 2015 12:23 am

tubeman426 wrote:I bought sever duty u joints and the grease fitting is in one of the caps. I would think this to be as strong as no grease fitting at all? What do you guys think?
Well, there is no grease fitting in the cross, but there are still grease channels (void space) there, which the solid u-joints don't have. But I don't have a definitive answer, sorry.

I can say for certain, though, that the Spicer Life u-joints have really good seals. Greaseable u-joints usually have a cheap rubber boot seal, and they have a grease fitting because they need to be greased to flush out contaminants. The Spicer Life u-joints don't have a grease fitting because they don't need it.

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Re: Ujoint strength

Post by Supershafts » Sun Mar 22, 2015 12:59 pm

If you want a Strong joint and one that is greasable to last forever then get a 5-1310-1x , now you have a joint that is as strong as a 1350 5-178x and is greasable
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Re: Ujoint strength

Post by wyrmrider » Mon Apr 13, 2015 4:07 pm

Genuine Dana Spicer joints are deep case hardened
others are electro inductionhardned or flame hardened and brinnell easily
IDK about the MOOG joints- am trying a set
grease fitting in the cap works for me

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Re: Ujoint strength

Post by Supershafts » Mon Apr 13, 2015 9:15 pm

moog doesn't make joints, moog is apart of fm which are now sourcing companies sourcing the best junk they can put in there boxes, so you can guess what those joints are.

ALL Spicer joints caps are case hardened, the bodies are either drop forging case hardened or cold forged depending on which version you want.
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Re: Ujoint strength

Post by b.guggenmos » Fri Apr 17, 2015 10:21 pm

We just received some new Spicer u joints for a PTO shaft. Right on the box. Body made in China. Apparently we made the caps. Very disappointed as I always try to use Spicer. The price did not drop either. I don't remember the part number right now but since then we bought some that were much smaller and same thing. Body made in China.

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