Powerglide yoke

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Speedbump
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Powerglide yoke

Post by Speedbump » Sat Nov 14, 2015 8:52 am

Have 125" altered with around 800 hp 505 CID BBC. Strange aluminum center/1350 yoke/35 spline axles. Having drive shaft made using 1350 joints and need a 1350 powerglide yoke. They range in price from around $80 to $250. Materials from forged steel to chrome moly to billet. At what point in a build like mine am I buying more than I need? What material/price is cost effective for me? I don't want to "cheap" out but don't want to waste money either. Advice/experience please.
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Alan Roehrich
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Re: Powerglide yoke

Post by Alan Roehrich » Sun Nov 15, 2015 9:58 am

Aren't you sitting over the driveshaft?

That should be all you need to consider.

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Re: Powerglide yoke

Post by Speedbump » Sun Nov 15, 2015 10:50 am

That's EXACTLY what's driving my decision to go from 1310 to 1350 joints. Still, the choices make me wonder and I hate "racer see, racer do" unless there's a decent engineering reason. I've never seen a broken trans yoke, but did split a 1310 joint in my S/G car but it was a 2,700 lb door car going 9.40's. I'm willing to spend but is chrome moly needed over forged steel or is billet needed over forged or do you just stand back at throw the money at it because it's offered?
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Alan Roehrich
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Re: Powerglide yoke

Post by Alan Roehrich » Sun Nov 15, 2015 11:58 am

Speedbump wrote:That's EXACTLY what's driving my decision to go from 1310 to 1350 joints. Still, the choices make me wonder and I hate "racer see, racer do" unless there's a decent engineering reason. I've never seen a broken trans yoke, but did split a 1310 joint in my S/G car but it was a 2,700 lb door car going 9.40's. I'm willing to spend but is chrome moly needed over forged steel or is billet needed over forged or do you just stand back at throw the money at it because it's offered?

I don't throw money at things. However, I do not cut corners where a catastrophic failure could cause extremely expensive component damage, or serious physical injury or death. I have seen various driveshaft failures do serious harm to guys driving roadsters, even when good quality retention devices, properly installed, are in place.

I suppose that quality forged Spicer 1350 series yokes and companion flanges, combined with a seamless tube, properly welded, would be sufficient. The problem is, shops that have the parts, and the people, are getting impossible to find. The shop I used for 35+ years is now out of business. For a lot of people, in a lot of places, the best option now is to simply order the correct shaft from a place such as Mark Williams.

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Re: Powerglide yoke

Post by Mrhp » Sun Apr 03, 2016 10:33 pm

I am doing a rebuild/remake of a 125 bantam altered as we speak. It has run an alcohol 565 and a nasty small block and was running 1310 joints with a glide and a brake. I am running a 550 horse blown 348 and will have a 1350 shaft made.My buddy twisted a spicer yolk with a 4 gear and a sbc. Do not take any chances. Spend the dough, and never think about it again. =D>

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Re: Powerglide yoke

Post by Speedbump » Mon Apr 04, 2016 11:08 am

I did. Funny the old hard tail I'm re-doing is a Bantam also.
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