The '69 Project

Tech questions that don't fit above forums

Moderator: Team

Post Reply
User avatar
speedtalk
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 979
Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2003 2:43 pm
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Contact:

The '69 Project

Post by speedtalk » Thu Nov 27, 2003 12:15 am

http://projectautos.com/69-camaro/index.html
Any chassis advice would be welcome. How about a shock recommendation?

Guest

Post by Guest » Mon Oct 25, 2004 4:32 am

Don whats that little tap doing on the thermostat housing on your Camaro ?
Does it bleed air , or help somehow ?
Gary.

User avatar
speedtalk
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 979
Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2003 2:43 pm
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Contact:

Post by speedtalk » Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:48 am

I don't know that it helps, but yes, it's to bleed air.
NEW BOOK:
http://HorsepowerChain.com
Racing Engines Optimized Through Hardcore Math

Don Terrill
SpeedTalk Owner/Admin

Speedy Goomba

Post by Speedy Goomba » Fri Oct 29, 2004 6:43 pm

I recommend Koni "Street" Adjustable shocks, i've gone a 1.55 60ft with a footbrake, full weight pump gas SBC powered camaro with these shocks on the front, combined with a J-bolt slapper bar traction device in the rear.
I have competition engineering rear shocks, but they'll be shit canned in favor of Koni "Street" adjustable shocks in the rear.

Full Soft in the front, full stiff in the rear.

Full soft on the front street shocks is actually the next step stiffer then full stiff on the "race" SPA1 shocks.

Speedy Goomba

Post by Speedy Goomba » Fri Oct 29, 2004 6:44 pm

BTW these shocks should help settle the front end down track, i read that you're having a problem carrying the front end down track.

Speedy Goomba

Post by Speedy Goomba » Fri Oct 29, 2004 6:46 pm

LOL, as i'm reading your log, i'm seeing that you've been making the right moves.


Where are your SPA1 shocks set now?

User avatar
speedtalk
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 979
Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2003 2:43 pm
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Contact:

Post by speedtalk » Sat Oct 30, 2004 1:13 pm

Speedy Goomba wrote:Where are your SPA1 shocks set now?
I've got them full loose
NEW BOOK:
http://HorsepowerChain.com
Racing Engines Optimized Through Hardcore Math

Don Terrill
SpeedTalk Owner/Admin

Speedy Goomba

Post by Speedy Goomba » Sat Oct 30, 2004 5:42 pm

Try stiffening up one step at a time and watch for improvements in down track height and the launch.

To improve your 60fts, you should contact Charlie Plott at ATI, and ask about an 8" Treemaster converter.

I use a 10" ATI treemaster speced out by Charlie at ATI without even a dyno sheet or any track results. I told him the combo, he picked out the converter.
He pushed the 8" converter which in mine and your cases would ET quicker, but at the time i didnt know how much driving my car would see and stuck with the 10".

The other problem is that you arent making enough power under the converter flash speed.

Do you have your timing locked out? How much timing do you have, and if its not locked out when is it all in?
What is your footbrake RPM on the starting line?

User avatar
speedtalk
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 979
Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2003 2:43 pm
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Contact:

Post by speedtalk » Sat Oct 30, 2004 10:36 pm

The car is dead hook right now so there's not much to be gained by chassis mods. As for the converter I'm with you, I know I'd be a bunch quicker with an 8", but I'm having too much fun driving it on the street.

The only thing I really hate about the current combo is the cylinder heads - they're Edelbrock Performer RPMs and they suck - they murdered the short turn.

Next season I hope to have a whole new engine, so power should be better. No matter what, I'll have new heads.

My distributor has one spring and is all in by idle. I haven't tried to get wild on the starting line yet, I think I leave near 2000rpm
NEW BOOK:
http://HorsepowerChain.com
Racing Engines Optimized Through Hardcore Math

Don Terrill
SpeedTalk Owner/Admin

Speedy Goomba

Post by Speedy Goomba » Sun Oct 31, 2004 3:22 pm

That car would fly with a set of Iron Oval port heads.

Before you think i'm nuts, take a look at my friends car:

Image

here's the combo:
BSE Big Block

454+ .060”= 467ci
-Wiesco closed chamber style pistons with Speed Pro Plasma Moly file fit rings
-11:1 CR
-Clevite bearings - mains, rod and cam
-Fel-Pro gaskets
-Crower Sportsman rods and Crower 4340 crank with ARP main studs and GM windage tray
-Moroso 6-Quart kicked-out pan # 20401 with pickup # 24440
-Melling oil pump high pressure
-RollMaster billet double roller timing chain
-#215 closed chamber oval port heads '67 - '68 with 2.25 / 1.88 Undercut valves 11/32” stem, valves Unshrouded, gasket matched and bowls blended (valve job angles 30/45/70) *note* head work done by Richard Biebel Racing
-Performer RPM Air gap rectangular port manifold
-Pro-Systems Pro Series 4150 "1000HP" downleg boosters
-1/2” 4 hole spacer over ½” open spacer
-GM carb heat shield
-LSM billet roller: 254/260 dur. .720"/.720" lift 107LSA 7/4 2/3 firing order swap comp #933 springs (Coated). Crower severe duty lifters
-Rocker Arms- Crane Gold Race 1.7 rockers
-3/8" one piece pushrods
-MSD ignition- 6AL box, blaster II coil and Pro Billet distributor
-Headers - Dynomax 1 3/4" PRIMARY TUBE with 3" collectors. Remove collector weld on Flowmaster Scavenger Collectors # C-134214300
-3-1/2" head pipes with 3-1/2" X-crossover and 3" dumps after mufflers. All bends to be mandrel. DynoMax Oval UltraFlo mufflers
-Mallory Comp 140 fuel pump, regulator and filter plumbed to stock 3/8" fuel line.
-Mobil 1 0W-20 oil, Ford type F trans fluid and Mobil 1 gear lube
-indexed spark plugs
With a turbo 400 prepped by STR, 8” ATI Treemaster converter, CSI Super Sheild, Stock Horse Shoe Shifter 4.10 gears and either slicks or DOT slicks this combo will run 10.40's depending on weather, tuning and driver Best: 10.37 @ 127.2 mph with a 1.35 60ft off the footbrake, through the exhaust at 3860lbs
-Delco 94 amp alternator with internal regulator #10495426 and a Delco battery Group24 #78DT/84
-Denny's HD aluminum driveshaft 1350 U-joints and yokes
-ATI balancer
-My 1000 HP is not a box stock piece but rather custom built by Patrick James at Pro-Systems and was worth .06 and .5MPH over a "out of the box" 950HP.
Jetting as delivered is 88/94 with a 2.5 PV in the front and .035 squirters.
It's deadly with 86/92, 2.5 PV and .040 squirters and often runs the same number back to back varying only thousands at every interval.
It will run quicker and faster with 89/95 in GOOD air.
-Timing: With my closed chamber/piston combo 36/37 produces the best MPH and I've run as much as 44 yielding quicker 60 foots.
-15" x 10" Weld Pro Star wheel 5-1/2" backspacing. 12.5" section width on the tires 30" tall MAX. C07 Hoosier Radial slick 30” x 10.5”
-Koni Street adjustable shocks set full stiff rear/full soft front
-Alf Weibe stock eliminator rear suspension w/ control arm braces that triangulate the control arm mounts
-Front springs are Moog 5392 combined with Koni Gas shocks set at full soft and poly graphite bushings set without any preload. The front sway bar has been removed
-front springs Moog 5392
17.95".......................Free height
11.50".......................loaded
266 lbs./in..................rate
.61...........................wire diameter
2026.........................total load

Front/rear weight bias = 59/41

only .06 slower with an out of the box Holley HP950






If the Iron oval port is not for you, then take a look at Pro Filer oval port aluminum cylinder heads. they make one in 290cc which is on the large side for your application but a much better choice then the cylinder heads currently on the car.
http://www.profilerperformance.com/bbc-heads-174.html


You can still street drive the 8" converter, as long as its an ATI treemaster.
I like the 10" ATI treemaster and it would work well in your application as well.

hookdaddy
New Member
New Member
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2004 12:40 pm
Location: Spring City, PA
Contact:

Post by hookdaddy » Wed Nov 10, 2004 4:41 pm

Sweet car

Strange now make aluminum "true" double adjustable shocks for your Camaro (fits the stock mounts) Although I believe they rquire slight modifications to the front a-arms (probably just opening up the installation hole forthe larger shock body to pass through. ) Definatley no for the weak @ heart though as they're not cheap.

You'll have to call for info as they're not yet on their website
Don Scholl
V.P. Sales & Marketing
S&W Race Cars

User avatar
speedtalk
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 979
Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2003 2:43 pm
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Contact:

Post by speedtalk » Wed Nov 10, 2004 10:22 pm

Hey Don, thanks for joining the forum and for the heads up.
NEW BOOK:
http://HorsepowerChain.com
Racing Engines Optimized Through Hardcore Math

Don Terrill
SpeedTalk Owner/Admin

Post Reply