Opinions on easiest and cheapest car to make a drag car?
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Opinions on easiest and cheapest car to make a drag car?
I've been toying around with the idea of building me another car one day, one that is lighter than my current 55 chevy. The 55 is really dad's car so I would like a car of my own. I've been wondering what would be the easiest car to transfer into a all out drag car without running into alot of trouble or modifications. I'm talking about a full backhalf car, not a tube chassis car. I more or less a "Super Stock" type car but run bracket with. I can't afford to run super stock, wish I could though. I had always thought that the 90-92 Camaros always made a good looking car and it seems that parts are pretty easy to get ahold of. That year model car seems to be pretty easy to find a body and you can get them pretty cheap too. I don't particularly want to have to dump alot of money into a body before I even get started.
What is everyone's thoughts and ideas?
Jason
What is everyone's thoughts and ideas?
Jason
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" All out, , ,Easy. . . cheap " These are conflicting parameters. Building a race car inside a taxt cab is expensive and heavy.
If I was going drag racing, a rear engine dragster would be my choice even though the initial buy in is a few $.
Installing _any_ engine would net great fun. The motor would not have to be anything special ( Low buck ) or powerfull ( lasts all season, or even two )
If I was going drag racing, a rear engine dragster would be my choice even though the initial buy in is a few $.
Installing _any_ engine would net great fun. The motor would not have to be anything special ( Low buck ) or powerfull ( lasts all season, or even two )
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I agree with Masher, the least expensive way to go fast is with a rear engine dragster. There are plenty of used ones out there for a lot less money than it would take to build a new car. And it takes very little motor to make them go quick. Mine barely puts out 700hp to do mid-8s.
If you want it to run faster than 10s, just make sure it has a current chassis certification. There are ebay specials out there that need chassis mods before they can get certified again.
If you want it to run faster than 10s, just make sure it has a current chassis certification. There are ebay specials out there that need chassis mods before they can get certified again.
Bryan
583 in 225" hardtail dragster
Northern Lights Raceway
583 in 225" hardtail dragster
Northern Lights Raceway
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Agree! Much cheaper and quicker to buy something someone else put together. A "roller" (car minus engine and tranny) often is the way to go. Put your own motor and tranny in and go racing. Build up a new car only if you can do almost all the work yourself. Otherwise, it can get very expensive very quickly. Even if you can weld, fabricate, and so on, it's amazing how quick the "little" stuff adds up.automotive breath wrote:The easiest and cheapest route is to buy a good used race car. With the economy
the way it is I'm thinking great deals are everywhere.
Richard
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Jason,
to me, the answer is "it depends on your desires"
First, Even though I own both a rail and a door car, I like the door car better. I am a big, old, stiff man [age 62] and getting in and out of the rail wears me out in a hurry. My Son who is age 34, loves the speed and thrill of the fast rail.
My door car has the drivers side bar installed low, so getting in and out is easy. Again, to me, the door car has personality and appeal that rail cars do not have. It runs mid 10's, pops a big wheelie, and is fun to drive.
Also, for me, buying a used race car is non-satisfying. I did buy a used race car once, but I ended up going completely through every system on the car. In hind sight, it was no bargain.
I like building my on cars, engines, trans, rear end, wiring, plumbing, and knowing every thing is in good shape. Much of my pleasure comes from the planning and building. In my opinion, it is important to consider where your enjoyment comes from because even the very best don't win all the time.
I think your are on track [so to speak] about the 3rd generation Camaro/Firebird package. Those cars work great and as you mentioned, a good solid body can be bought for a reasonable price. And unless you just want to build a back half deal, those cars will run very consistently with a 9" radial tire.
Anyway, just some of my thoughts.
to me, the answer is "it depends on your desires"
First, Even though I own both a rail and a door car, I like the door car better. I am a big, old, stiff man [age 62] and getting in and out of the rail wears me out in a hurry. My Son who is age 34, loves the speed and thrill of the fast rail.
My door car has the drivers side bar installed low, so getting in and out is easy. Again, to me, the door car has personality and appeal that rail cars do not have. It runs mid 10's, pops a big wheelie, and is fun to drive.
Also, for me, buying a used race car is non-satisfying. I did buy a used race car once, but I ended up going completely through every system on the car. In hind sight, it was no bargain.
I like building my on cars, engines, trans, rear end, wiring, plumbing, and knowing every thing is in good shape. Much of my pleasure comes from the planning and building. In my opinion, it is important to consider where your enjoyment comes from because even the very best don't win all the time.
I think your are on track [so to speak] about the 3rd generation Camaro/Firebird package. Those cars work great and as you mentioned, a good solid body can be bought for a reasonable price. And unless you just want to build a back half deal, those cars will run very consistently with a 9" radial tire.
Anyway, just some of my thoughts.
Larry Woodfin - Team Woodfin Racing - Owner, Woodfin Automotive
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Assuming you want a door car, you can't do better than the fox Mustang. It's the modern day '55 Chevy. The options for the front and rear suspension are pretty much endless. Plenty of room in the engine bay for whatever engine you want. Lots of used stuff around. Best deal in town. But, keep a FORD motor in it please. MJ
Mack Johnson
'86 Mustang Footbraker
Pump gas 347
6.435 @ 104
'86 Mustang Footbraker
Pump gas 347
6.435 @ 104
Thanks guys for all the imput. There are some good suggestions. Maybe I should have reworded my post a little bit. When I made the comment about cheap I meant a body that can be bought cheap vs, trying to find a 67-69 camaro body that you are going to pay big bucks for just the body. I know it cost $$$ to ride fast.
Thanks.
Jason
Thanks.
Jason
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There is a company that makes reproduction Camaro bodies ( supposedly Early Mustang too ) Perhaps a new shell mixed with trim from a rusty junker would be a good route.4link1955 wrote: trying to find a 67-69 camaro body that you are going to pay big bucks for just the body.
Thanks.
Jason
Best thing to do is list all known costs and not pay too much attention to body cost, the end of project cost is what is critical.
Well your operative words are "easy" and "cheap" - so I would have to agree with all the Fox body guys, that is a super easy car to backhalf because of all the aftermarket support and finding the donor car is easy. Another easy vehicle to backhalf is the S10 but those are more expensive to initially purchase, but installing the backhalf kit on the S10 is so easy it's almost fun enough to make up for the header hassles LOL
Mr. P.
Mr. P.
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If you go with a Fox body, you do not need to backhalf. Just buy the suspension and chassis pieces from Wolfe Racecraft.Mr. P. wrote:Well your operative words are "easy" and "cheap" - so I would have to agree with all the Fox body guys, that is a super easy car to backhalf because of all the aftermarket support and finding the donor car is easy. Another easy vehicle to backhalf is the S10 but those are more expensive to initially purchase, but installing the backhalf kit on the S10 is so easy it's almost fun enough to make up for the header hassles LOL
Mr. P.
http://www.wolferacecraft.com
well the most beautiful car ever bilt is 55-56 chevy, so i whis i had one. and you live in right country . if only strip=rear engine dragster. but i think you whis to have a street-stip door car. my prescription is 454, rolershaft, alu heads,8-10 inch converter, th 400. 1350 drivesshaft.ford 9" whit spool and much gear,pump gas.and chassie that appeal you. that should be a durable 10s car. god luck