Chassis guys please help with my mopar race car (scale ?)

[Tom Cannon]

Yes, I've had the chassis book for fifteen years or so.Some good stuff in there.

There is a 427 Fairlane that really 60s good.Probably the best solid axle 60 in the class.He doesn't have the opportunity to shorten up his front segment though.He has the split leafs but his car is automatic

[Tuner]

I think I’m finally getting your hypothesis. The Mopar has a shorter front segment than the Brand F & C cars and therefore the split leaf has a better strength or leverage situation on the Mopar? (I don’t know if I said that right?) If it works on a car like the Fairlane it follows that it would work on yours......I guess........with the right shocks......if the clutch slips just right……if the moon is in the seventh house…etc. I do think you need a pinion snubber if you don’t already have one.

I’m just hopelessly old-school. The mono-leaf Camaro was such a joke I’m prejudiced by the words, like how some folks don’t like Thermo-Quads or Q-Jets, I’m superstitious.

[Tom Cannon]

Yeah,now you're getting it.From what I understand the front segment is very ridgid on the split mono leaf.The stock front segment is 22 inches but as you read in your chassis book the Super Stock springs have a 20 inch front segment (happens to be a Abody spring too)So the longer front hangers would be a phone call away and I would order a A body mono leaf and wala,a super stock spring with 50 less lbs.That combined with the rf torsion bar trick and maybe I'll be onto something.Might be on the ragged edge of the rules but I'll know if it works or not.

It all sounds good to me but I have been wrong plenty of times before Would just have to figure what spring rates to buy.

[Robert Kane]

In the past I had a 440 power duster that went 10.40's on the leafs I had new springs made to the SS spring rates (was cheaper than buying from Mopar) and we moved the 2,3,&4th segments forward on the main leaf and greatly stiffened the front half of the leaf. Also we relocated the mounting hole in the front perches to make it work better. Up front we had 90/10's and the 6 cyl bars and removed the rebound bumpers from the upper control arms. If yours have to be there I would relocate the bracket down and hide the evidence. Also get the engine up and back as far as you can on the mounts. Again some fab time to relocate and weld up holes etc. will be needed. All this can move the weight transfer back as you need it.

Robert

[MPac]

Yeah,now you're getting it.From what I understand the front segment is very ridgid on the split mono leaf.The stock front segment is 22 inches but as you read in your chassis book the Super Stock springs have a 20 inch front segment (happens to be a Abody spring too)So the longer front hangers would be a phone call away and I would order a A body mono leaf and wala,a super stock spring with 50 less lbs.That combined with the rf torsion bar trick and maybe I'll be onto something.Might be on the ragged edge of the rules but I'll know if it works or not.

It all sounds good to me but I have been wrong plenty of times before Would just have to figure what spring rates to buy.

Tom is there anything in the rules about the rear end? Because you could fab a corvette rearend into it I put a chevy 14 bolt in my ford

[flo-tech]

Stick cars dont work good with superstock springs! they wind up to easy and change pinion angle to quick. 6 cylinder torsion bars will work ,and loosen up the front end . dont load it all the way up.
Also do you have the battery up front. ever think of using an empty battery up front and mounting the real one in the trunk
or in a gutted factory tank ,so it looks real but a 3 gallon cell is either inside the fake stock tank or in the trunk.
Put about 5 degrees pinion angle in the car at rest . some guys use a fake mono leaf with multi leafs added for looks.
You may or may not make a snubber work depending on how well the springs you have will hold pinion angle
under power thru the 60 foot. You want the car to transfer weight smoothly when your leaving . star with the torsion bars
low until it gets to where it starts unloading on the tires then try a weaker shock or spring if needed in the rear.
Id try 45lbs in the front or more and play with the rears 15-18 psi. only trying to suggest some things that worked
for me in the past. Plastic headlights,and some other gutted fake stuff. painted aluminum waterpump accessories
etc to lose front weight. Gut the beams in the doors.