rusty fastener removal

[falcongeorge]

I am in the process of dis-assembling the front clip on my '66 chevy II, and the fasteners are so rusted, virtually all of them have been snapping off, even with a 3/8 ratchet. Have been spraying them with WD-40, but it isnt doing squat. Does anyone know of something I can spray them with that will be more effective? I am starting to be concerned about the amount of extra work I am gonna have drilling/easy out to remove all these bloody broken bolts!

[jred]

just took my 55 ford pick up apart for restortion i was using dw40 but a fried of mine turned me on to some stuff called kroil i used the stuff and was amazed the stuff worked the best took out over a hundred bolts and nuts and bolts with the clips and only broke one this stuff really worked i think you can get it at www.kanolabs.com squirt it on walk away come back 10 mins later and most all the bolts will come out easy iam getting ready to buy a case never seen any lube work as well seems to make the rust thats on the exposed threads not quall up on the threads in the nuts

[leahymtsps]

Kroil and PB Blaster are both excellent penetrating fluids.

Tom

[ZIGGY]

Add GM's 'heat riser' spray ("Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor" no.88862627) to the list. Brake fluid in a syringe can be very effective as well.

[Y BE AVG]

pb blaster seems to be pretty good, we go through quite a few cans

[falcongeorge]

Thanks guys! You have just made my life a LOT easier![/b]

[BGriff]

Try ATF mixed with acetone.
http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14602

[ALKYAL]

P.B. blaster is very good when combined with some HEAT. Warm up the nut or area around fastner[dont need to turn red] and spray it on-suggest a well vented area or outside. It will smoke/ let it stop smoking and add some more heat[ TOO much heat will cause a flame-up-let it go out and put a second treatment on-more heat- then remove. May take addl. treatment. I take plugs out of blocks this way. Eliminates 90% of drilling/ez-out usage. Good Luck.

[falcongeorge]

Thanks again guys, got some PB BLaster, will take another run at that old pile on Sunday, hopefully make a little more progress now. The heat is a good suggestion too. Been about a decade since I have worked on a restoration, man this thing is a bitch...or maybe I'm just ten yrs older...

[mod911]

I recently bought an induction heater and they are sweet. Hold the small heater near metal and step on the power pedal and in SECONDS smoke starts wisping and then add oil or not and most things come loose,add some more oil and it boils around the bolt/nut and zip em off. Costly but we use it daily in my shop now and wonder how we ever lived with out it. There is little fire danger and I use it to heat FUEL filters with rusted nuts and lines rusted to the nut. You can hear fuel boiling in seconds and they come loose 90% of the time. No more rubber fires on suspension parts either and no more gas/oxy bills. This heater makes me feel better when employees are heating things on expensive vehicles. Add covered florescent lights and we are much safer working with flamable materials.

[rmracing]

I have had best luck with putting a little brake fluid on rusted bolts etc.

[MDT]

If it is possible, get the bolt red hot let it sit for a couple of minutes and it will come out

[crazyman]

I would think if the bolt in question was in an appropriate area, you could use an eye dropper to put some "Works" toilet bowl cleaner or "CLR" on the threads. Hydrochloric acid just LOVES rust.

Baking soda would be needed afterwards to "kill" the acid and stop it from eating anything it shouldn't.

[brian]

An old flat head trick is to use wax on a heated stud to penetrate the threads. Warm up the area and rub a candle on the stud and watch the wax run into the hole. Works great.