Cam break-in
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Cam break-in
Has anyone ever used, or have an opinion on using good, old fashioned wheel bearing grease as a cam prep prior to the first firing ? Seems like it would be good as it's designed for high pressure loads.
Is the defect in what I see, or what I'm seeing with ?
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Cam break in
Will bearing grease mix with engine oil without stopping up an oil galley?
Have heard of using anti-sieze (lead based). Cam lube is cheap and plentiful
Have heard of using anti-sieze (lead based). Cam lube is cheap and plentiful
I have heard of using litium grease but I wouldn't use it. I used to use a mixture of STP and engine oil 50/50 for diesel engines but napa sells cam lube as Mr. Moore suggests.
I have a short distance to go and even shorter time to get there !
My single is 108mm x 70.6mm 114.47mm rod or 4.251" x 2.77" rod 4.5" also makes 45 ft. lbs @ 6800 rpm
37mm int. 32 mm exh.
My single is 108mm x 70.6mm 114.47mm rod or 4.251" x 2.77" rod 4.5" also makes 45 ft. lbs @ 6800 rpm
37mm int. 32 mm exh.
Nick, the best I've found is CMD #3.
It's a very heavy grease.
I've actually been able to feel the difference when turning an engine over by hand compared to other stuff such as "moly grease". It also mixes with oil and wont clump in the pan. I know you can get it from McMaster Carr.
CMD has also been mentioned by experienced folks here too.
It's a very heavy grease.
I've actually been able to feel the difference when turning an engine over by hand compared to other stuff such as "moly grease". It also mixes with oil and wont clump in the pan. I know you can get it from McMaster Carr.
CMD has also been mentioned by experienced folks here too.
Mike S.
Help me to understand here. I do understand the "ZDDP" content.
Back in the day we would build an engine, check OP and drive it. Up and down on the throttle a few times --- Done.
Did the OEM,s do all the cam break in as todays do,s and don't,s?
What has changed or have I been away from Hot Rods earning a living for to long?
Thanks guys,
Back in the day we would build an engine, check OP and drive it. Up and down on the throttle a few times --- Done.
Did the OEM,s do all the cam break in as todays do,s and don't,s?
What has changed or have I been away from Hot Rods earning a living for to long?
Thanks guys,
Later, Frank
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Frank, if you understand the lack of ZDDP it should be apparent why flat tappets are failing.Grumps wrote:Help me to understand here. I do understand the "ZDDP" content.
Back in the day we would build an engine, check OP and drive it. Up and down on the throttle a few times --- Done.
Did the OEM,s do all the cam break in as todays do,s and don't,s?
What has changed or have I been away from Hot Rods earning a living for to long?
Thanks guys,
GURU is only a name.
Adam
Adam
Adam,
It's not the ZDDP it's all the hipe about what RPM and for how long.
Not to keep beating this but as I ask did the OEMs breakin anything?
Got to tour the Chevy plant in Van Nuys back in the early 60's, end of the line a guy gets in the car, starts engine and hammer down out to the lot.
After that lots of low RPM for loading onto a truck or rail car ect. ect.
Do ya see what I am sayin?
It's not the ZDDP it's all the hipe about what RPM and for how long.
Not to keep beating this but as I ask did the OEMs breakin anything?
Got to tour the Chevy plant in Van Nuys back in the early 60's, end of the line a guy gets in the car, starts engine and hammer down out to the lot.
After that lots of low RPM for loading onto a truck or rail car ect. ect.
Do ya see what I am sayin?
Later, Frank
Re: Cam break-in
Manton sells this moly based lubricant,
710104 8 oz. Ultra Gel Moly Lube - Jar
I can't say that I have ever used it on a flat tappet cam but its been the cats meow at keeping pushrod tips, rockers and valve ends from burning on engines with 450+ lbs of seat pressure.
One thing I would add any of the moly or other assembly grease products should only be used on the extreme pressure points where needed like pushrod ends and flat tappets and only used there in small quantitys and drained out hot and quick as the stuff is slimy and will inhibit sealing of rings and kinds leave garbage throught the engine( if used in quantity) I have seen people take the red lube (torco gpz) and dunk pistons in it, this kind of this will gaurantee that the rings will never seal.
710104 8 oz. Ultra Gel Moly Lube - Jar
I can't say that I have ever used it on a flat tappet cam but its been the cats meow at keeping pushrod tips, rockers and valve ends from burning on engines with 450+ lbs of seat pressure.
One thing I would add any of the moly or other assembly grease products should only be used on the extreme pressure points where needed like pushrod ends and flat tappets and only used there in small quantitys and drained out hot and quick as the stuff is slimy and will inhibit sealing of rings and kinds leave garbage throught the engine( if used in quantity) I have seen people take the red lube (torco gpz) and dunk pistons in it, this kind of this will gaurantee that the rings will never seal.
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Re: Cam break-in
Honda used to dyno every bike that came off the line back in the day. IDK if the still do.
For a fresh engine, I still believe in the 1 short test fire where the timing is set, then beat the snot out of it. When it quits getting faster, it's broken in. What better way to seat rings but pressure?
Cam break in instructions say "above 2500 rpm", but they don't say 2500 rpm must be held constant...
Maybe the 2500 rpm for a 1/2 hour is a celebratory beer thing while getting to hear your new cam lope....
For a fresh engine, I still believe in the 1 short test fire where the timing is set, then beat the snot out of it. When it quits getting faster, it's broken in. What better way to seat rings but pressure?
Cam break in instructions say "above 2500 rpm", but they don't say 2500 rpm must be held constant...
Maybe the 2500 rpm for a 1/2 hour is a celebratory beer thing while getting to hear your new cam lope....
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