Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

Does anyone have a picture of how to strap a nova down in an enclosed trailer. I have the back figured out-no problem. but the front is a mystery-the d-rings in the floor are too close to the front-There right under the bumper. Thanks

I installed new D-rings where I needed them. Left the old ones be.

Use short non-ratchet straps looped around the outer portion of the lower control arm. Then ratchet tight from rear.

i tie down a cobra replica using straps over the tires. nothing else to tie down.

Strapping the tires is not uncommon but obviously any deflation of the tire can cause a problem. IMO doesn't secure the
car as well from lateral forces either.

You may be correct but it takes suspension out of the equation. Any time you load a strap against suspension, the strap has to work harder. Given the condition of much of our highway/interstate system these days, it's nice if you can tie down to unsprung stuff and let the car move up and down a little when ya go across those bridges, etc.

actually over the tires is recommended by the engineer who designed the car. lightly sprung suspension with tubular a arms and heim joints. i supposed you put a trailer on it's side and the car might come loose.....but i doubt it.

The tubular a-arm part might give me pause. Otherwise I think you'll find that the tie-down makers' preferred method
is what I partially described. Short loops over the lower control arm, clipped to d-rings. Two ratchet straps looped over
the rear axle tubes diagonally (cross each other). Tires remain stationary, spring action is unimpaired.

i think the tie-down manufacturers preferred method would be whichever tie-down you are using.

f1 cars probably use over the tire, pulling trucks frame hooks, etc. etc.

I tie the front frames using the (2) oval slots on the outside of the frame pulling straight forward,my rear axel uses u-bolts over the spring pearche(I do not use the factory spring pearches)I criss cross the rear tie downs and hook over 1 of the u-bolts on each side been doing this for about 20 seasons and over 50k miles with no problems! you may have to relocate your tie downs wherever they need to be---be sure to use a large reinforce ment plate under the plywood.

I always blocked frame to keep suspension from working, while being towed. It is a little known fact that 2 stacked springs are actually less rate than the lowest one. You have a trailer spring combined with car spring and it will wear out the car spring much faster than if driven. I learned this the hard way. Collapsed a set of lighter rate spring on a trip from Illinois to Fla. Making a set of blocks not only saves suspension parts but secures the car solid. Make them so they just slip under and cinch down to lock them in.

Bubstr is correct I use to tow all over the NHRA circut for many years had tube chassis cars & modified stock type frames of all types, you need to have car staying still as much as possible or you are wearing out everything you paid all that money for, the suspension on the trailer works better if the car is straped down properly, I purchased a couple of bladers (air bags) put under car fame after stapped chassis straight downward front & rear (you don't stress the frame that way) then put bladers under key posisions on frame (kept chassis from flexing), my chassis & suspension components were lasting much longer less cracking & hime joints failers, shock wear & overal less breakage, Idon't know if this was why I had less wear & breakage but it couldn't hurt, Budnicks