Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

Hi just want to find the reason i would need to fit one to my car, I have the battery mounted in the trunk and figure that because it's so far from the starter it will help take some load of the starter solenoid when cranking?

I have a Optima Red top CCA850, gauge 1 Taylor wire to an external kill switch then to the starter. I have a floating ground set-up.

I figure the kill switch may put some resistance in the system and this may also be a reason for the remote solenoid..?

It appears that it is a safety issue -- to avoid the long heavy cable running to the starter solenoid on the starter itself always being live.

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml

http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml

thanks for the reply, answered my question.

Here is a pictue of two starters I have used on our SBFords and using a stock Ford type fender solenoid. A large cable attaches to large lug on starter and the large right side lug (facing the fender solenoid) of the fender solenoid. The switch start wire goes to the small left lug on the fender solenoid. The battery cable goes to the large left lug on fender solenoid.

Ah interesting, thank you for sharing.

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Sorry, and I'm not looking for an argument, but that arrangement is not a good idea.

Wiring it as such causes momentary solenoid latching, due to generated back EMF, particularly with the PMGRs in the pic. Consequently it will be hard on RCDs, contacts, and may even lead to thrown armatures, through 'lazy' disengagement.

Not to say it's not used and doesn't work, it's just not good practice.

BCjohnny wrote:

's 5s.jpg

Sorry, and I'm not looking for an argument, but that arrangement is not a good idea.

Wiring it as such causes momentary solenoid latching, due to generated back EMF, particularly with the PMGRs in the pic. Consequently it will be hard on RCDs, contacts, and may even lead to thrown armatures, through 'lazy' disengagement.

Not to say it's not used and doesn't work, it's just not good practice.

How would you suggest that it be wired?

I have used the remote solenoid for over 20 years in circle track applications and never had an issue.

It does allow you to isolate the starter and be able to easily hook up a seperate ign switch so you can get the engine rolling then switch on the ign if you were to be having hot start issues. It also cuts the connection dwon at the starter to just the cable lug. We started this prcatice years ago when racing IMCA were there was an engine claim as it made one less thing to unhook when claimed.

Gov

X2 on Gov. Very, very common in circle track.

When you release the key, as the starter motor winds down (overrun), it momentarily stops acting like a motor and becomes a generator (much as a 'Dynastarter' does). As the solenoid contacts are still closed at this point the generated current is passed from the lower (motor) sol contact, to the upper (battery) sol contact, then via the small installed link, energising (latching) the solenoid, thus holding the pinion in mesh. Only when the motor has slowed down enough to allow the generated voltage/current to decay and release the solenoid, will the pinion disengage. It is only momentary, but it is there. Check it out in a bench test, it'll sound like lazy disengagement.

Like I said, as posted it will work, no argument. It will also shorten starter life, guaranteed. In 25yrs I've only ever known that system used once, OE, in a transitional model (one year only), and that was known for 'eating' starters.

Can't see any obvious problems retaining the bulkhead solenoid switching (a splitter relay may be wise), but always energise the starter sol directly. One thin gauge wire clipped to the main starter cable is hardly a big deal.