steering column angle to car axis

[Rizzle]

So,
I'm helping a friend build a bmw e30 project car, a track oriented streetable driver. Making seat brackets, and so as part of lining everything up, we bolt in the steering column (car is completely stripped). Surprise to us, the steering column in the OE position isn't parallel to the car centerline, its visually off.
Clearly this was like this from factory, and I'm guessing its also like this in other cars from factory as well. However, this car will probably spend many hours at a track, I'd like to know if anyone has had to correct this type of thing in other track cars? Whats an acceptable limit, if we do aim to correct it to some degree?

[Kevin Johnson]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_ ... rdan_Shaft

DCJs are typically used in steering columns, as they eliminate the need to correctly phase the universal joints at the ends of the intermediate shaft (IS), which eases packaging of the IS around the other components in the engine bay of the car.

[Rizzle]

I guess I should've written that better, my concerns are about driver ergonomics.

[Kevin Johnson]

Yes, it is like that with numerous cars.

Ask on the Spec E30 forums about other people changing that aspect. Now that you're psychologically focused on it, it might be best for you to change it.

Normally the driver adjusts his or her perception automatically. I went through something similar when I first got a prescription to correct an astigmatism and the depth of field was highly distorted. After a few days the noggin adjusted.

[iadr]

You think angled is bad, my Volvo PV 544 comes with the column about 3.5-4 inches off the center of the seat. Sitting back in it after driving something else for a few months, it's very noticeable, but you get used to it right away
If tracking it you have to allow for different (that daily driving habit) fitting of clothing, different feel of shoe, and most certainly the helmet, so I think you just have get used to these things, IMO...and you do with no effort.
One thing I will say is don't lean your seat pack to get helmet room. Put the sit botom low, and allow yourself (or driver) to sit upright. Much more accurate G-force sensitivity.

[Rizzle]

Thanks guys.
We left the factory steering shaft angle in regards to the centerline, as even with the the seat mounted closer to the tunnel, the wheel was very centered on the seat (there was possibly a wheel offset an well as an angle offset? - non factory seats were removed so no idea what the original design was like).
Seat moved ~ 4" farther back, has about a 15* seat back angle, and lots of headroom (even with helmet), due to fairly shallow seat brackets.
Quick release wheel and a slightly smaller dia are going to be added when the time comes, theres still a LOT more to do with the car. The zip ties have since been replaced with more solid mock-up brackets, which will get replaced with a legit bracket once wheel/pedals are in. This is the first time I've actually tried to make sure a seat/wheel/pedal setup is actually done correctly, hope it looks proper. Seat is on adjustable sliding rails, and sadly no pic w/ driver was taken with the column/semi finished seat brackets.