double or single

Tech questions that don't fit above forums

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Ed-vancedEngines

Post by Ed-vancedEngines »

Send it to

edvancedengines@sbcglobal.net


I can already tell you that once you see what you can do with good quality double adjustables you will never want anything else.

I do highly respect and admire Mr Billy but the stuff we work with actually defies what is supposed to work. I am not talking engineering facts. I am talking racing facts and what works on the race track.

ON a great track that 100 % can work. ON a great track a soild rear axle roadster can find some traction with over 4,000 hp. Most racing is not done on great tracks. The rest of the time we are exerting much constant steady pressure on the tires by methods of suspension adjusting. I will say, I never want suspension to be in a squat position though.

We are in some cases with some customers putting to the track 1,700 horsepower on a tire that measures 10.50 wide. Other cars are pushing over 2,000 hp on a tire that is measuring 11.60 wide and I have one guy launching with an instant 1,700 + hp and a split second into the launch adding an additional 300 hp and another 300 hp down track on a tire that is 16.750 wide.

I might add that these what is called Outlaw cars are not lightweights either. Weights are for the 11.60 tire classes at 3,000 lbs for Big Blocks. True 10.50 classes are 3,200 lbs.

The best of the best suspended 4 link cars in my opinion are the NHRA Pro Stocks. These are the best, nothing better. They are doing maybe 1,400 - 1,450 hp on a 17 inch tire with a superb chassis, and only race on well prepared tracks and fight to keep the tires stuck or to not skate too much on their way down the track.

We poor guys doing the Outlaw thing must be doing something right.

Buy the Strange if you can, if not try the AFCO. Double adjustables you will find you will love and are easy to tune with.

Ed
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RyonPro1
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Post by RyonPro1 »

I've had one instance where I helped a guy with singles and was not able to get him to go quicker by bolting on doubles. In that instance, this guy was sharp on what he needed and had sent the shocks back several times to get them revalved as needed for his particular combo.

I am a big believer in doubles. I am also a believer in getting them redone once you know what range they work well in. Many times people just use these as a bolt them on and forget them piece. They just don't work like that.

Shawn
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Ed-vancedEngines

Post by Ed-vancedEngines »

Ryan,
Didn't I send you some writing I did on suspensions? Did you find it any help at all?

Ed
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Post by BillyShope »

Ed, have you ever rigged up a traction dyno to check out the rear wheel loading during launch? It would only take about an hour of your time and you'd know just how close you were to equal rear tire loading. Seriously, I'd be very interested in knowing how close you can get to equal loading with adjustments to the 4link.
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Post by RyonPro1 »

Ed, yes that was nicely done. I like to "think" I have a better than average idea of what is going on in a suspension. At least for drag racing. But yes, I think you and I are pretty much on the same page.

Billy, what are you calling a traction dyno? As far as loading the tire equally, are you talking about only at launch, or averaging it out throughout the run?

Have you ever took tire temps at the end of a run across the tread? It's an interesting test. Gives you a quick and dirty way to see how the tire is loading througout the run.

Have I missed the traction dyno on your site?

Shawn
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Post by RyonPro1 »

Just wanted to say I found it. I'm rereading it though. I don't understand how you are loading with the chain, but I'll get back to reading.

Shawn
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Post by BillyShope »

Yes, it's pages 5 and 19. It's simply a matter of substituting a static force for the inertial force which occurs when an object is accelerated. So, within the confines of your shop...and without even starting the engine...you can simulate the chassis loadings associated with launch. All that would happen at the strip...the RR and LF unloading and squat or rise, for instance...will occur right there in your shop. And, you don't need a video camera. It's like you're frozen in time.

As for the loading of the chain: I recommend that you jack up the front of the car each time you increase chain tension to avoid any possible damage to those expensive wheel scales. Then, ease it back onto the scales. You can use either a "come-along" or electric winch for the tensioning.
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