Hope someone has some help My camaro footbrake car is hard to start about the 3rd pass-So I went with the biggest interstate battery I could get-trunk mounted-same problem-I changed the solenion on the firewall-still same problem-So I installed a small battery up front-Now works fine-But I don't want to run 2 batteries any Ideas?
econo racer wrote:Hope someone has some help My camaro footbrake car is hard to start about the 3rd pass-So I went with the biggest interstate battery I could get-trunk mounted-same problem-I changed the solenion on the firewall-still same problem-So I installed a small battery up front-Now works fine-But I don't want to run 2 batteries any Ideas?
It seems that you might have a big voltage drop? What size (gauge) cable are you running?
Measure voltage at the starter when cranking. Make sure you have large enough cable both for positive and negative all the way from battery to starter. 2/0 is enough. Check all grounds and all connections.
Automotive Machining, cylinder head rebuilding, engine building. Can't seem to quit
econo racer wrote:Hope someone has some help My camaro footbrake car is hard to start about the 3rd pass-So I went with the biggest interstate battery I could get-trunk mounted-same problem-I changed the solenion on the firewall-still same problem-So I installed a small battery up front-Now works fine-But I don't want to run 2 batteries any Ideas?
It seems that you might have a big voltage drop? What size (gauge) cable are you running?
Measure voltage at the starter when cranking. Make sure you have large enough cable both for positive and negative all the way from battery to starter. 2/0 is enough. Check all grounds and all connections.
X2. Run large gauge welding cable for both, too many people rely on the chassis for a ground. Bad idea.
Last edited by jmarkaudio on Sun Mar 09, 2008 10:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mark Whitener
www.racingfuelsystems.com
____
Good work isn't cheap and cheap work can't be good.
I think the cable is #2 -I only have a big groung strap going to the frame from the battery. I sanded it good too-It does have a bad voltage drop-Why do I have to have a ground running from the starter to the battery? The engine also has a ground strap going to the frame. Thank you for trying to help me
econo racer wrote:I think the cable is #2 -I only have a big groung strap going to the frame from the battery. I sanded it good too-It does have a bad voltage drop-Why do I have to have a ground running from the starter to the battery? The engine also has a ground strap going to the frame. Thank you for trying to help me
Double 0 is the least I run on front or rear battery and never have problems. #2 is tiny compared. The guys that responded are right on!
You should have a good ground all the way from the negative battery terminal to the starter if at all possible since the various components that make up the car, chassis , engine , transmission are poor conductors compared to copper.
Also the best way to check for voltage drop on the ground side of the starting circuit is to place your voltmeter between the starter housing and the negative terminal. If you read 2 volts while cranking then you have a loss of 2 volts in that circuit,You can continue to work your way back toward the battery to isolate the drop to the particular portion of the ground circuit. Say you place the meter between the starter and the front of the frame if you have say 1.8 volts then you can be assured that your motors chassis ground is where most of the voltage drop is occuring. I mention this because if you have a poor ground at the motor frame junction it can cause all sorts of problems, some times a poor ground on a motor (on a more or less stock car with multiple grounds) can cause the transmission to act as the ground for the starter in this case the current will be flowing through the trans or engine bearings.
That is why it is always advisable to run a separate ground wire to the starter (Or as close to the starter as possible ) as well as to a ground block. On a race car use the ground block to ground the electronics of the car ( many computer components are very sensitive to using a chassis ground ).
Thanks-Guess I'll run a ground wire from the starter to the battery-If that does not do it I'll also buy a #1 pos cable too. I cannot afford to lose any more races after the 3rd or 4th rd
econo racer wrote:Yrs ago I ran a tilton type starter and it never did this until I went with a new stock type starter-My compression is only 10.1 if that
What Dave was saying is turn it over a few times then hit ignition for start!
WOW! how can a person disappear from forums? Dave's fuel injection is above the rest.
My camaro footbrake car is hard to start about the 3rd pass-So I went with the biggest interstate battery I could get-trunk mounted-same problem-I changed the solenion on the firewall-still same problem-So I installed a small battery up front-Now works fine-But I don't want to run 2 batteries 
any Ideas?
Dave's fuel injection is above the rest.
