Heat/AC, electrical, lighting, flooring, design, construction, photos...
- Posts: 404
- Joined: Mon Oct 17, 2005 1:38 pm
Calypso wrote:Insulation thickness on the inner roof makes a big difference in cold climate. Warm air wants to go up.
I put 12" of shredded blow in paper in my ceiling.
Here in Finland we use typically rock wool or cellulose wool. Cellulose wool tends to compress with time and lose some of the insulation. Shredded blow in paper is probably close to cellulose wool we use.
12" (~30cm) does not sound like much. Current requirement here is for new buildings 40cm. It's not uncommon to go to 60cm.
Good insulation works wonders keeping it warm or cool. Just need to be careful with condension stops and structure ventilations.
- Posts: 440
- Joined: Sun Oct 20, 2013 8:41 am
machinedave wrote: ↑
Mon Jan 04, 2016 11:57 pm
Splitter wrote:Less temperature difference (a colder building) means less heat transfer to outside. You should be saving fuel by turning down the heat. And if your shop is colder than your neighbours, you're causing them to lose more heat to you, driving up their heating costs at the same time.
There will be greater savings in lowering the temperature difference if your building is poorly insulated or has a bunch of overhead doors, compared to a well-insulated airtight building.
Those are my thoughts as well. There are many people that disagree with me. They have a hard time with the straight 9 hours of run time of the furnace. It would be intersting to note how many times the furnace cycles in an 8 hour period just maintaining the temperature.
The solution is simple. Figure out which way keeps it on longer. 9 hours straight or 25% of every hour for x amount of hours.
Should be simple math to tell you which is costing you more.
- Posts: 329
- Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 12:14 am
- Location: tucson arizona
also don't forget that if your building is tall a lot of your heat is up there you might try some ceiling fans to push the warmer air back down. although my building is 40x80 my roof height is only 10 feet makes it problems some times because its not high enough to get the 8000 pound fork lift inside..
- Posts: 1046
- Joined: Fri Jun 30, 2006 9:37 am
Hook up a simple hour meter to furnace motor and you’ll know for sure which is better...
Also will tell you how many gallons of fuel oil used....just mult hours by nozzle size in burner...
I put one on mine...now I never have to guess how much oil is in tank....I know to the gallon...
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
- Posts: 331
- Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2007 11:44 pm
When coming back to work I use a kerosene torpedo heater for at least 1 hr. then use regular heat. Gets the temp back up quick for me. Must be a safe area though.
- Posts: 1371
- Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 6:25 pm
- Location: Box Elder, SD
My shop is a pole building with the doors facing the prevailing wind side. The insulation is TF-600 which is foil faced Styrofoam type board with double thickness on the ceiling. Heat is a natural gas radiant overhead tube heater.
I've tried it both ways, cycling the heat up and down and just leaving it at 60°. From what I could determine there was a very marginal savings, if any at all by cycling. If I'm not going to be in the shop several days the heat will get turned down.