FrankenFerrari engine

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mk e
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Re: FrankenFerrari engine

Post by mk e » Tue Oct 16, 2018 11:08 am

ijames wrote:
Fri Oct 12, 2018 2:28 pm
I strongly suggest that you go ahead and build Lana her garden shed now, and put your blast cabinet in it. ...
Last night Lana asked which bay in the new shop is hers.....ummmmm... excuse me? Did you just ask for a bay in the SHOP I built after you kicked me out of the old shop that was the only reason I agreed to buy the house you wanted to begin with? Did that just happen?

It seemed to end peacefully after I reminded her that anything she puts in the shop will be covered with dust and smoke and probably infested with mice......the next step was going to be explaining that I would assume anything I found in the shop was there because she needed help getting it to the trash, but luckily we didn't get there :)
Mark
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Re: FrankenFerrari engine

Post by n2xlr8n » Wed Oct 17, 2018 6:36 am

YAY! :D
He who is in me is greater than he who is in the world.

mk e
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Re: FrankenFerrari engine

Post by mk e » Wed Oct 17, 2018 7:53 am

Yay is right.....the basement got myself kicked out of is 1600sqft, the new space is 900 ...really 850 because of the bathroom, plus a way less useful 150 upstairs and another 200ish storage only.....I really can't give up a full bay to lawn and yard crap.

with the layout set I'm nearly done wiring...all the equipment power is in and most of the general outlets....3-4 more hours I guess. About the same to rough in the powderroom plumbing now that the layout in there is finalized.

Not sure what I'm going to do with the airlines. The compressor is upstairs so I need to run air downstairs....but I'm not sure how much time and effort I want to invest in future convenience.....1 or 2 per wall I guess I put outlets beteewn the bays for dropdowns...maybe the same for air.....winter is coming fast and I want to move on to insulation, drywall and moved in but I don't want to be stupid either....
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ijames
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Re: FrankenFerrari engine

Post by ijames » Wed Oct 17, 2018 11:26 am

Put drops by your mill and lathe to blow off chips with, and a drop by the garage doors so you can take a hose outside to the driveway for tires, to start with. Maybe a drop by the back door, so you can take a hose out and blow off the lawnmower or something from the blast cabinet or whatever. Just put your horizontal (well, angled for drainage :-)) runs on say 6" standoffs and not clipped directly against the wall or ceiling. That way it's easy to cut in another drop later when you have a need and more time. Make the drop tees point upwards as a water trap then go over and down against the wall (or with shorter 1-2" standoffs) for the drop. At the end of each horizontal run put an elbow pointing down with a drop with a ball valve to blow out any water, and if you can, put a drain drop where the air comes down from upstairs to the bottom level, too. I know that you know that OSHA says no PVC, so black iron if you are into threading, copper pipe if you prefer brazing (my favorite), or one of the fast kits with aluminum or plastic tubing made for compressed air from eastwood or others if you don't mind spending some money to save assembly time (haven't used any of these).
Carl Ijames, chemist not engine builder
carl ddott ijames aatt verizon ddott net

mk e
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Re: FrankenFerrari engine

Post by mk e » Wed Oct 17, 2018 1:42 pm

For air I was thinking 1/2" copper in the walls but had not really thought about pitching it....that is a great suggestion. I'm thinking loop around the attic, then T and drop down the wall.

Another thought I'm having it that PVC air hose (not pipe) is REALLY cheap and I could just run that stuff for about 1/4 the time and money as hard piping...no way to pitch it really...unless I drop it thought conduit or similar (also dirt cheap) on the horizonalish runs. This is a very tempting option.
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ijames
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Re: FrankenFerrari engine

Post by ijames » Wed Oct 17, 2018 4:29 pm

If you put it in the walls you have to do all the drops now or cut into the wall later and then patch the wall. What's wrong with having the pipe exposed? Any of the soft tubing choices will have undulations in the "straight" sections but you should be able to just use a steeper pitch to get a decent amount of self-draining without resorting to putting the tubing inside conduit. When you open a drain valve the blast should take care of any small puddles in the tubing :-). Whatever you use, definitely use an upward pointing tee for each drop. We had to run new airlines in the shops at my last job and at first they just used downward pointing tees for each drop. Pretty soon they had water dripping out of the air ratchets and other tools when someone forgot to drain the compressor tank #-o . Rotated the drop tees to point upward and put in an elbow to a short horizontal run to another elbow down to the existing vertical drop pipe and no more water. I know you must have lots of reference texts and/or programs but one I've found really useful for small stuff is Engineering Power Tools from www.pwr-tools.com. There's a freeware version that is pretty handy with no ads or other annoyances, and the full version is only $50 and well worth it, IMHO. Does lots of different calculations including moment of inertia, beam deflection for lots of geometries, plate deflection (handy for plenum wall and intercooler tank thicknesses when you are running boost), and tables of data and other calculations. Anyway, it has a table of pressure drop vs. air flow in pipes for 100' runs that shows 4.8 psi for 3/8" pipe and 1.4 psi for 1/2" pipe at 20 cfm, so I'd definitely not go smaller than 3/8" pipe or tubing, and 1/2" would be plenty. You won't run 20 cfm continuously but you don't want to limit the initial blast from a full tank of air with a blow gun or to seat a tire on a rim.
Carl Ijames, chemist not engine builder
carl ddott ijames aatt verizon ddott net

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