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Dyno water rust inhibitor

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Dyno water rust inhibitor

Postby R.Brown » Mon Jul 21, 2008 11:32 am

I searched thru the old posts on this, and have some new questions to ask...

I am in the process of changing the water in my dyno tank. I have a two part question:

1: I put the cooling water from the engine back into the same tank, so rust control is an issue. Last time around I used a pricey corrosion inhibitor (around 400 bucks) and while it worked alright, the water would still turn rusty color. I got around 4 years out of it, so that is not too bad, but looking for different options.

A few have suggested bleach, and indicated that by adding a gallon or 2 with 1000 gallons of water every six months will result in crystal clear water. That probably works fine for engines tested for one day then removed, but quite often I will have a test engine on the dyno for weeks at a time, and without any rust inhibitor, I am quite sure I am going to have corrosion issues as the water sits in the engine.

I know Larry Meaux indicated water pump lube (Napa #13) has worked wonders for him, but I am having a hard time finding it north of the border. So, I am considering adding 4 or 5 gallons of antifreeze (green if it matters) to the water. Is this an OK plan? Have any of you had success with this, or a different approach?

The water tank is inside, no sunshine gets to it, no algea issues as some have had.

To be clear, this is a stuska brake with the DEPAC ADL controller.

2: The other issue I may need to change is the way I filter the water. Up until now, I was running a sump type pump recirculating the water thru a bank of water filters (14" long style, cellulose) bought from home depot. I am thinking that a better way of doing this would be to somehow filter the water that comes OUT of the engine (cooling tower), BEFORE it gets to the big tank. All of the filters I have seen have a max temp rating far below the 180 degrees coming out of the cooling tower, so I wondered if anyone had some input on a good way to accomplish this. I had considered directing the water into a plastic 45 gallon barrel fashioned into a settling tank, where the crud would go to the bottom and not back into the 1250 gallon main tank... then a port in the side of the 45 gallon barrel halfway up to gravity flow back to the main tank thru a high temp filter to catch the little particles.

Thanks to all who help, I am planning to refill the tank tomorrow,

rb
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Postby Gunner » Tue Jul 22, 2008 12:09 pm

Why not use water soluble oil.
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Postby rustbucket79 » Tue Jul 22, 2008 2:11 pm

No help for your question, but how are things going Ryan?
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Postby David Redszus » Fri Jul 25, 2008 11:23 am

There is a water treatment product that is used in locomotives, water cooling towers, construction and over the road truck engines. It will prevent rust, cavitation, scale formation, and do other good things.

It was formerly made by Nalco Chemical Co. It is now available from a company called Penray Co. in Wheeling IL. It is sold as a concentrate and should be used in any closed system water brake.
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Postby maxracesoftware » Fri Jul 25, 2008 12:27 pm

I know Larry Meaux indicated water pump lube (Napa #13) has worked wonders for him, but I am having a hard time finding it north of the border


i just found this page you might be interested in ?

i'd have to check my Mac's additive part number
but i think its the same stuff i use,
NAPA Mac's #1300
i buy it in 5 gal containers

20-25 gals per 1000 gallons of Water is the ratio i use
last over a Year or 2

looks like Milk
leaves a very light oil film that greatly extends
the life of the Dyno Servo valve,
seems to make the Dyno TQ and HP Numbers more repeatable,
reduces or eliminates Servo valve disc jitter

http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(5szemgnkmahikbztpsndlb45))/Detail.aspx?A=MCR1300_0006414630&An=32870+59999+2999999+109999
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Postby ClassKing » Sat Jul 26, 2008 12:54 am

Link doesn't work anymore. When I brough this up last year I called my local Napa store and they didn't know what it was. I'm going to try again.

Since I separated the engine water from the brake water the brake water is lasting LOTS longer with only a bit of bleach. But I'm up for anything that might make the servo last longer.
Function - the hidden math.
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Postby maxracesoftware » Sat Jul 26, 2008 2:25 am

ClassKing wrote:Link doesn't work anymore. When I brough this up last year I called my local Napa store and they didn't know what it was. I'm going to try again.

Since I separated the engine water from the brake water the brake water is lasting LOTS longer with only a bit of bleach. But I'm up for anything that might make the servo last longer.


try this

http://www.napaonline.com/


Click on "PartsPro SE Catalog"
its on the left-side Menu


then click Search (* )Part Number

enter "mac 1300" in search box

get your NAPA Counter Guy to look in the Price Sheet
for Mac 1300
he should see another $ Price listing for 5 Gallon Containers
and maybe another shorter Part Number or extension ?
it might alternatively listed as
Mac 13 Fleet Coolant or Rust Inhibitor ?
or
Mac 1300 Fleet Coolant or Rust Inhibitor ?
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Postby ClassKing » Sat Jul 26, 2008 11:36 am

Thanks Larry.
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