I finally found it!

[1745greg]

does anyone know how to get it out of a set of aluminum heads? I have someone with a set of highly modified ford motorsports heads that is full of this type of stuff and wants to get it out to do over.

[Kevin Johnson]

does anyone know how to get it out of a set of aluminum heads? I have someone with a set of highly modified ford motorsports heads that is full of this type of stuff and wants to get it out to do over.

My guess would be a large ultrasonic with appropriate solution. You would probably need to experiment as to what solution would be best. Depending on what you choose, use a well ventilated area.

[donc]

Darin, I would greatly appreciate your findings on this sealer, got a customer with cast iron super stock heads , cant find any sealer yet that will last. Thank You.

[punknhead]

http://www.redkote.com/

[justahoby]

Dude, not to rain on anyone's parade but Kreem has to be applied to a spotless surface or it will flake off in sheets. Ask any biker who has had to stop twenty times to clean out his fuel filter just to ride 5 miles. If you use this stuff you need to make sure where you're putting it is spotless. We used to acid etch old fuel tanks, clean them with acetone and then apply it. It can still come off even with perfect prep. I've used a lot of it over the years and wouldn't put it in anything now. Just trying to help, maybe save you some trouble or money somewhere down the road.

Roger

Have you ever used it to seal a head? Do you have a heads up on anything that is better? I have heard of it coming off in gas tanks but what about just water. I am hoping that against water it will hold . I know Caswell Gas tank sealer works just as good if not better than KREEM but its thick and makes the head run a little hot. I have used the Caswell many times and it stops leaks in it tracks like this stuff did but its just to thick to use on a comp or Pro-Stock head. on If you know of something that's better to use for us guys out here desperate to seal up a crappy head I am all ears!!!!

I will keep everyone posted as to how these heads I have coated turn out. If I see any problems or anything that looks like it might be a problem I will post on this thread.

He says "not to rain on anyones parade" then proceeds to piss on it. I am interested in feedback as I for one dont run Gasoline in my cooling system

[Biteme]

I've heard of a pair of heads getting "loctited".
If I remember rightly, the head gets immersed in the hot solution then pressurized.

[dave brode]

Darrin
Have you tried POR15 ? Heres a link. http://www.por15.com/Fuel-System-Restor ... oducts/12/

http://www.por15.com/US-STANDARD-FUEL-T ... _p_64.html

I hadn't thought about it in an engine part, but I have had very good luck with that stuff in two steel tanks. They both had some light rust inside. It goes a long way, like a pint left from a quart can in 16 gallon tanks.

I did not buy the "kit". One tank was cleaned at a radiator shop only. Afaik, their "pre and ready" cleaner is phosphoric acid based. I sloshed homedepot phosphoric acid concrete cleaner through the other one and then had it cleaned at the rad shop. I will add that the tank got mighty hot with the phosphoric acid inside.

The 2nd tank is still in use. I had a look inside the first one, and the stuff was still in good shape after several year, even where it was very thick from puddling [they say to avoid]. 100LL and E-10 gas only though, no e-85 or meth. Although they don't like the idea, I did two back to back coats on both tanks. Pour in, slosh for 10 min, pour out, pour back in, slosh for another 10, pour out.

Would muriatic acid cleaning be best on iron?. I have cleaned water jackets in really scaled blocks with it.

Dave

[Leftcoaster]

This thread seems to have morphed sideways a little from the O.P.'s original subject, but I feel the following is topical:

Firstly, if POR15 gas tank sealer is as good as the POR15 anti rust paint used on my lathe, it should be excellent

That stuff bonded firmly with clean roughened paint, bare steel, aluminum, JB Weld etc. etc. without an undercoat; it has low surface tension therefore migrates into cracks and casting dimples much as a good two part epoxy does even though its one part, sets really firm & is virtually scuff proof - - beware though, the formulae is unique and you'll need it's own special thinner; also the colour can vary dramatically eg the two pots of supposedly identical grey we purchased were miles apart, as were 4 other pots the paint supplier patiently opened for comparison - - when contacted the factory rep. stated "We don't guarantee a colour match" and didn't appreciate our suggestion that a disclaimer should be included on the label

Regarding paint prep, or the need to remove rust from ferrous materials or corrosion from aluminum, please consider the following:

WARNING! if attempting these techniques make damn sure you've read and follow the appropriate MSDS sheets, have decent eye protection, are fully clothed with elbow length rubber gloves and decent boots (gumboots and a fly fisherman's waders are perfect) with lots of fresh water at hand, and either outside or in a huge building with concrete floor as NOXIOUS gases are produced, some also INFLAMMABLE, and make sure someone else can keep an eye on proceedings

Note I'm using the correct descriptions and formulaes rather than, for instance "Muriatic acid", "Paint Prep", Dunny Cleaner" etc etc as it's important we know the acid concentration, which domestic retailers tend to place in super small print or even omit despite it being against the law

Best wholesale sources are likely to be the local Building Supply Chain or Dairy Farmer's Warehouse; the latter carry chemicals in bulk for farms and processing factories

RUST: An approx. ~10% solution of Phosphoric acid H3PO4 will "neutralise" rust by reacting with it to form Iron Phosphate Fe3(PO4)2, which will remain in seams and cracks unless physically removed with a wire brush, probe, or high pressure water jet etc - - if dry, the specialty paints already mentioned will no doubt coat and seal it, but I'd be wary of portions flaking off with the paint if the structure flexes for any reason

However, a ~10% solution of Hydrochloric acid HCl will completely dissolve rust, creating Ferric Chloride 2FeCl3, which is water soluble - - don't allow contact for more than ~30 mins as once the rust has been dissolved any remaining active HCl will attack the steel - - also be aware that HCl will cause hydrogen embrittlement in steels harder than ~RC28, and should not be used on castings as it will remain in the pores and bleed through to create more rust, regardless of media blasting and/or subsequent painting

A generous application of water is usually enough to remove all remaining acid, but some like to add a couple of teaspoons of Caustic Soda NaOH to 3 or 4 gallons of water and slosh that around as the alkaline NaOH will neutralise any remaining HCl or acidic compounds created

Supposedly there's another form of HCl called "Inhibited HCl" which dissolves rust but will not attack steel, but I've no experience with it

(Of course electrolysis is the most thorough and least risky process for the removal of rust, but that's another subject entirely)

ALUMINUM CORROSION: This is Aluminum Hydrate Al2O3.3HOH which can be removed with a ~10% solution of Caustic Soda NaOH; about 15 mins immersion is usually enough followed by lots of water - - if a dark, smutty, almost "greasy" deposit forms on the surface it will be from copper in or attached to the aluminum - - the simplest way to remove it is by brushing with a ~5% solution of Nitric Acid HNO3 and again sluicing it down with lots of water

The dilute caustic soda also does a great job of etching the aluminum for painting

[pamotorman]

had good luck sealing fiberglass fuel tanks on OSSA motorcycles back in the 70s using Kreem. always cleaned the tank inside with acetone

[dave brode]

his post snipped

However, a ~10% solution of Hydrochloric acid HCl will completely dissolve rust, creating Ferric Chloride 2FeCl3, which is water soluble - - don't allow contact for more than ~30 mins as once the rust has been dissolved any remaining active HCl will attack the steel - - also be aware that HCl will cause hydrogen embrittlement in steels harder than ~RC28,

and should not be used on castings as it will remain in the pores and bleed through to create more rust, regardless of media blasting and/or subsequent painting

A generous application of water is usually enough to remove all remaining acid, but some like to add a couple of teaspoons of Caustic Soda NaOH to 3 or 4 gallons of water and slosh that around as the alkaline NaOH will neutralise any remaining HCl or acidic compounds created

Leftcoaster,

Thanks for the post.

You mean HCI [muriatic] should not be used on castings that are to be painted, or not used on casting at all? I ask because I have cleaned water jackets/passages with it, as well as passages in cast iron water cooled marine exh manifolds.

Dave

[Leftcoaster]

Leftcoaster,

Thanks for the post.

You mean HCI [muriatic] should not be used on castings that are to be painted, or not used on casting at all? I ask because I have cleaned water jackets/passages with it, as well as passages in cast iron water cooled marine exh manifolds.

Dave

HCl requires moisture in order to react with ferrous materials including cast iron

If the material is dry and the paint coats the surface, seals the pores, and is impervious to moisture, no reaction can take place

Don't electroplate the material though, as the plating forms on the surface only, and any residual HCl in the pores will rust and bleed through to the surface when exposed to moisture

I can't imagine HCl harming a coolant jacket unless its left there indefinitely & not flushed out completely or severely diluted with water and/or coolant

[dave brode]

Thanks for the info, Leftcoaster.

Dave

[larrycavan]

We used Kreem in motorcycle gas tanks for years. It holds up a long while in them.

[Walter R. Malik]

I use the stuff from CASWELL.
It can be thinned with acetone after mixing. Block all the water exits, pour a LOT in the water jacket, swish it around and be sure to pour the excess out ... before it sets-up.
Never had a problem which needed redoing ... even with cast iron heads over years of time on the street using anti-freeze, (and pressure), in the system.

Maybe if the heads get removed a lot or re-machined some it could cause something to happen but, I haven't been there with it.