Pick-up tube sealer

[BOOT]

I know most braze/weld the pick-up to a pump but what would be a good removable sealer? Bolt on styl pick-up. Nonbypass adapter and filter. Green threadlocker?

[Geoff2]

I drill & tap a hole for a bolt where the p/up tube fits inside the pump. I cut the bolt off so that it is flush with the inside of the p/up tube & does intrude into the flow path; bolt is then Loctited.
Another method is to weld/braze a steel strap onto the p/up tube & secure it under one of the pump cover screws. I know people weld the p/up direct the pump but you never know when cast iron will crack...

[modok]

loctite 640
standard procedure IMO

[mag2555]

Green locker on the threads and good old automotive Black silicone gasket maker for the sealer ( but just a film of it ) , but I would still prefer to take 10 minutes and make a gasket !

[BOOT]

Sorry I wasn't clear, by bolt on pick-up I meant the type with a bracket that bolts on to the pump housing bolts not the flanged around the pick-up tube, those type have a gasket. When I added "bolt on" I was just trying to say not a oem style press fit that can move.

So press fit tube sealer, I'll assume mag2555 is talking about the flange bolt on pick-up

[tresi]

I just put a couple of good tacks on it. If for some reason I would ever need it off it's a 1 minute job with a zip wheel. It may be wrong as can be but it's served me well.

[amcenthusiast]

I think this is a smarter question than most are led to ...not know about.

Come to find out, by doing much research, even very slight leaks in a pipe-threaded connection can be a source of very undesirable engine oil aeration.

(explanation on why aeration goes here... 'it's all good' is a poor philosophy in this regard!)

Wherefore, if I was a Chevy builder, I would definitely braze the slip fit non-threaded pickup tube to the housing.

I would not 'weld' the tube to the cast iron housing; the added heat to weld and the increased hardness of the weld bead itself will promote stress crack formation around the welded area -more so on the steel tube side, adjacent to the weld where the steel tube will tend to resonate with harmonic vibrations traveling throughout the engine.

A brazed joint is made by a 'soft' metal and is more flexible, done 'right' it spreads the bond area more gradually into the two parts getting bonded etc

-just preheat the entire small cast iron part with a rosebud (doesn't need to be cherry red or orange) then braze, then allow room temp slow cool down (no water quench)

moreover, if I was 'really' a Chevy man, I know I would place the mounting end of the gear cavity in a wet bed of sand for a heat blanket there while brazing the tube on to help prevent unknown cast iron hardening from happening around the bolt on tabs/where the unit bolts onto the block -so they stay more malleable, to resist fatigue crack potential (very important to protect bolt on mounting ears) -since it'd be fairly easy to pamper the mounting ears this way, I'd do it just for the added peace of mind... since the pump housings are rarely/occasionally known to break off in highly stressed applications.

[Geoff2]

And while you are doing all this, the bolt method I noted in post #2 would be done & the pump bolted to the block....
And no worries about cast iron cracking where it has been welded/brazed...

[cjperformance]

Tap a thread for a screw in pickup like a Ford Cleveland, end of problem.

[modok]

I think some of you guys don't know how to locktite properly.
It works so well making a marginal fit act as a precision press fit..... that they were afraid it would put a lot of machinists out of work. Didn't happen. Underutilized for years because nobody TRUST it. But they trust it now. It's holding on shotgun barrels, and the oil plugs in your NEW engine you drive every day. Threads tend to leak. Welds warp.
If you think it isn't strong enough... WELD/bolt a brace on it, so it can't vibrate.....whatever way you think it will vibrate. Sometimes that is a problem, certain engines. sometimes they use an o-ring, and it vibrates to death. You can guess how I went about fixing that

Also, don't forget solder.

[panic]

don't forget solder

I agree, I'd use the softest material with sufficient mechanical strength to reduce heat to the parts, silver solder is great.

[BOOT]

The green sleeve Loctite(I know I said threadlocker in op) seemed like a good fit but as always figured I'd ask b4 I did it, because of unforeseen downfalls. Thx for the replies!