383 sbc build
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383 sbc build
I am trying to talk a friend of mine at work into letting me build him a nice 475-500hp
383 for his el-camino and while I have a few older 4 bolt 2 piece rear main seal blocks
I would like to build a 1 piece seal block but I do not know what year block to look for?
What else needs to be considered if going to a 1 piece block? Thanks for the help.
383 for his el-camino and while I have a few older 4 bolt 2 piece rear main seal blocks
I would like to build a 1 piece seal block but I do not know what year block to look for?
What else needs to be considered if going to a 1 piece block? Thanks for the help.
Re: 383 sbc build
Only some of the 1 piece rear main seal blocks have provision for a mechanical fuel pump.
Carlquist Competition Engines
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Re: 383 sbc build
fastblackracing wrote: ↑Fri Feb 08, 2019 8:07 pm I am trying to talk a friend of mine at work into letting me build him a nice 475-500hp
383
But then, who's building a 500hp Elco with a mechanical pump? Wouldn't one begin with an electric pump back by the tank to insure the supply?Only some of the 1 piece rear main seal blocks have provision for a mechanical fuel pump.
jack vines
Jack Vines
Studebaker-Packard V8 Limited
Obsolete Engineering
Studebaker-Packard V8 Limited
Obsolete Engineering
Re: 383 sbc build
I have a 650hp 421 SBC with a mechanical fuel pump. Plenty of fuel and simple. It's not a stock pump and the lines are #10 an feed to the pump to keep up the volume.
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Re: 383 sbc build
it has been mentioned a couple of times over the years-fastblackracing wrote: ↑Fri Feb 08, 2019 8:07 pm I am trying to talk a friend of mine at work into letting me build him a nice 475-500hp
383 for his el-camino and while I have a few older 4 bolt 2 piece rear main seal blocks
I would like to build a 1 piece seal block but I do not know what year block to look for?
What else needs to be considered if going to a 1 piece block? Thanks for the help.
with a 3.75'' stroke the oil ring can be exposed at the bottom of the bore at BDC.
i have been using a holley 200gph mechanical fuelpump for a few years on my old 010 4 bolt blocks,the howards composite fuel pump pushrod is only just starting to show signs of wear.
steve c
"Pretty don't make power"
"Pretty don't make power"
Re: 383 sbc build
Select a nice 2 piece main seal block you have. Mag it, check the main bore and align hone as needed. Square the deck and bore it with deck plate, hone and plateau hone for your ring type. Use a good quality rear main seal and offset the gaps on the two piece seal. If the budget allows use an ARP main bolt kit
This is as good as it should get.
2 piece seals only tend to leak when the crank seal surfaces are not proper and the seal is cheap and improperly installed.
This is as good as it should get.
2 piece seals only tend to leak when the crank seal surfaces are not proper and the seal is cheap and improperly installed.
The Older I Get, The Dumber I Get
Re: 383 sbc build
For future reference, at what locations and at what bore diameters are your SBC blocks most commonly lacking?
Only slightly OT, but has everyone else noticed it's almost impossible to sell a customer on a 2-bolt build? This is not 500hp; these are guys building a stock or mild street engine to go in an older pickup. "Nope, gotta have that 4-bolt main block."
When asked, "Did you have any problems the first 150,000 miles with the original 2-bolt block?"
"Nawbutt my buddies say go with the 4-bolt cause I might wanna tow with it."
jack vines
Jack Vines
Studebaker-Packard V8 Limited
Obsolete Engineering
Studebaker-Packard V8 Limited
Obsolete Engineering
Re: 383 sbc build
And that is why I used to get 2 bolt 350’s for free or dirt cheapPackardV8 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 09, 2019 11:47 amFor future reference, at what locations and at what bore diameters are your SBC blocks most commonly lacking?
Only slightly OT, but has everyone else noticed it's almost impossible to sell a customer on a 2-bolt build? This is not 500hp; these are guys building a stock or mild street engine to go in an older pickup. "Nope, gotta have that 4-bolt main block."
When asked, "Did you have any problems the first 150,000 miles with the original 2-bolt block?"
"Nawbutt my buddies say go with the 4-bolt cause I might wanna tow with it."
jack vines
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Re: 383 sbc build
On one hand that story proves reality is funny but so it the idea of a 150K mile SB from the 70s
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Enderle Fuel Injection - Nitrous Charger - Balancing - Nitrous Master software
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"Never let a race car know that you are in a hurry."
Re: 383 sbc build
At 150k most were mosquitoe foggersDave Koehler wrote: ↑Sat Feb 09, 2019 7:46 pm On one hand that story proves reality is funny but so it the idea of a 150K mile SB from the 70s
Re: 383 sbc build
In some engines the main webs are so thin that
two extra threaded holes make the assembly weaker... You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Felix, qui potuit rerum cognscere causas.
Happy is he who can discover the cause of things.
Happy is he who can discover the cause of things.
Re: 383 sbc build
Four bolt mains versus 2 bolt mains wont necessarily solve block failure issues. The example above of a 4 bolt block cracking at the main cap pad shows that magging a block and sonic testing for thin areas as Blockman reminded should always be done on any donor or replacement block! "Leave no doubt, check it out"!
The Older I Get, The Dumber I Get
Re: 383 sbc build
If you build the motor with the correct compression ratio for the fuel used, you won't have trouble with a 2 bolt main block. Detonation is what kills the mains and crank too. If you'll be using crap gas build with less cr.
Re: 383 sbc build
I have built a few 2 bolt 1 piece rms blocks with studs up to 514hp 502tq at 383-388cid and been lucky i guess!
Street strip deals making peak power around 5800-6100rpm
These were budget engines and i never recommend doing this now especially with Dart SHP blocks being affordable its a much better way to go for just a little more money and if you can't do that you can do a 2 bolt block with splayed center caps for extra strength.
Imho RPM and rotating/reciprocating weight and detonation are what kills most bottom ends and blocks like others have said
Street strip deals making peak power around 5800-6100rpm
These were budget engines and i never recommend doing this now especially with Dart SHP blocks being affordable its a much better way to go for just a little more money and if you can't do that you can do a 2 bolt block with splayed center caps for extra strength.
Imho RPM and rotating/reciprocating weight and detonation are what kills most bottom ends and blocks like others have said